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Alsace 2022 Reds: Continuing Their Trajectory
France: Alsace, featured
, May 2024
Alsace Pinot Noir continues to show its mettle. Most of the wines I tasted for this report are from the warm 2022 vintage, so sumptuous black cherry flavors abound, but happily free from the sins of over-oaking and over-extraction. The limestone-based wines are the clear winners. While the entry-level reds provide immense fresh-faced joy with their juiciness, the top wines need not shy away from the global limelight. The 2021 Pinot Noirs are trickier, but the best come with seductive slenderness and red-fruited brightness.
Marche Stays the Course Amidst Future Uncertainty
Italy: Center & South, featured
, May 2024
The writing for Marche is on the wall. Quality remains exceptionally high. A new focus on terroir and a focus on exalting a sense of place has been wildly successful. Moreover, the wines remain extremely well-priced. That said, Marche faces significant challenges in maintaining its share of international markets.
Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur
France: Bordeaux, featured
, April 2024
Tasting Bordeaux en primeur is largely the art of shutting out extraneous noise and concentrating just on the wines. This year, the noise is especially loud as estate owners, winemakers, consultants, négociants and other professionals debate the merits of 2023 within the context of today’s global market. Many of these views are fueled by agendas, which is certainly understandable. For this taster, it’s only about what is in the glass. When all is said and done, 2023 has a lot to offer. It is not a great vintage across the board, yet plenty of wines merit serious attention.
The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Apr 2024
The 2023 Bordeaux vintage is born in tumultuous times, at a pivotal moment for the region. When that is all stripped away, what do the wines offer in a growing season that swerved one way then another? The answer depends on which château you’re looking at.
Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Both Sides of the Spectrum
featured, Italy: North
, Apr 2024
Two successive warm and drought-filled years challenged winemakers in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, yet the 2021s and 2022s still offer plenty of pleasure. Readers will find many beautifully balanced yet sun-kissed wines. Unfortunately, others lack substance and come across as aromatically challenged, ripe and one-dimensional.
Oldies But Goldies: Bouchard Père 1892-2012
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2024
Bouchard Père & Fils own one of the deepest Burgundy libraries of vintages back to the 19th century. This article recounts last November’s dinner when bottles with years ending in two stretching back through decades were opened.
But Seriously: Beaujolais 2021-2023
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured
, Apr 2024
Beaujolais is one of the most dynamic wine regions in France. This report looks at new releases that almost entirely represent outstanding value for money, growers on the rise and the sheer diversity that Beaujolais has to offer.
The Many Riojas of Rioja: A Tale of Forking Paths
featured, Spain
, Apr 2024
Rioja finds itself at a crossroads. Like many a great story, Rioja is being challenged by small and mid-size producers over its identity. A dynamic and fascinating scenario is unfolding as a result, reflected in the almost 800 bottles that make up this report. Certain producers' enthusiasm and stylistic exploration are inspiring amidst a general decline in sales, defining a wine landscape as diverse as it is attractive. Rioja is currently an adventure of contrasts and discoveries.
Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2024
Lafite-Rothschild can age for decades, but it can be a difficult wine to understand. This vertical stretches back to the 19th century and features some riveting examples of the First Growth and vintages that were reminders of how precarious it can be opening ancient Claret.
2019 Château Montus and Bouscassé: A Premiere Glance
featured, France
, Apr 2024
For decades, the secluded Madiran AOC in Southwest France has quietly cultivated its reputation. Now, the spotlight turns to the 2019 releases from Château Montus and Bouscassé, unveiling wines shaped by evolving viticultural and winemaking practices. Antoine Veiry, the 30-year-old stepson of Alain Brumont, is driving this transformation as he leads both estates into a promising new era.