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2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible
France: Bordeaux, featured
Feb 2024
,After three highly successful vintages, Bordeaux owners and winemakers were presented with a highly challenging growing season in 2021. En primeur tastings presaged a vintage with a high degree of variability. Extensive tastings from bottle confirm that initial first impression. Within that context, though, readers will find a wide range of compelling wines that merit attention.
Cellar Favorite: 1973 La Fleur-Pétrus
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
Feb 2024
,The latest in the series of “Don’t dismiss a poor vintage ‘til you’ve tasted it first” is a bottle of 1973 La Fleur-Pétrus that was poured blind at the excellent Lorne restaurant in London in January. Several years earlier, at the inaugural “Grouse Club”, Lord Bruce had left us dumbfounded by a 1973 La Fleur-Pétrus from his legendary cellar. This bottle left us equally lost for words.
Vinous Table: Angler, San Francisco, CA
Vinous Table, United States: California
Feb 2024
,Angler is one of my favorite restaurants in San Francisco. Like many routines, what were once regular visits were disrupted by COVID-19. This was my first time back in several years. Perhaps for that reason, I especially enjoyed this dinner.
2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle
France: Bordeaux, featured
Feb 2024
,Bordeaux winemakers endured a tumultuous season in 2021. It is easy to say that the wines are inferior as a result. But years of experience have taught me that is not necessarily true. Wine can defy logic, as if two plus two equals five. Keep an open mind, and you’ll find pleasant surprises.
Nature Rules/Nature’s Rules: DRC 2021 In Bottle
France: Burgundy, featured
Feb 2024
,The travails of the 2021 vintage in Burgundy spared no one, not even the most illustrious domaine of them all. At the end of the day, Nature rules. So, how did the team at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti fare, and how are the resulting wines?
Argentina: Where Extremes Offer Up Unexpected Surprises
Argentina, featured
Feb 2024
,Wine consumers often mistakenly conflate Mendoza with Argentina—not an unreasonable error given that 70% of the country’s grapes grow in the province. But, when one tilts their glass toward the country’s other regions, perceptions can often be altered. Argentina’s varied whites and reds reflect the essence of a vast range of quite different landscapes. This report takes us on a journey through them.
Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2024 New Releases
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
Feb 2024
,For more than a decade now, Château Latour has released their wines in bottle only after several years, when the team feels they are ready to start drinking. This year’s releases provide an opportunity to revisit wines from three very different vintages, each with something to offer. I tasted the wines with Technical Director Hélène Genin during a visit to the château in December 2023.
Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands
Vinous Table, Netherlands
Feb 2024
,It had taken five years since opening for me to dine at Zoldering, and it lived up to expectations. Zoldering is really everything you could want in a restaurant unless you crave a luxurious setting or boundary-busting cooking. It’s not that kind of place. This is where you come to meet friends, chill out, drink great wines and eat delicious, well-executed food that you will want to eat again.
2022 Burgenland and Austria’s East – A Heaven for Unsung but Compelling Reds
Austria, featured
Feb 2024
,Austria’s central and eastern wine regions produced as much red wine as white. Tasting and thinking about the wines I encountered, it is clearer than ever to me that Blaufränkisch deserves a much wider audience. Moreover, it deserves to be planted far and wide in various corners of the globe. It is one of the last red sleepers out there. My estate visits in November 2023 yielded more tasting notes from the stunning 2021 vintage than from 2022. Because many wineries release wines with delay, this report also includes notes for a sizeable amount of 2020s, 2019s and 2018s – all of them current releases.
2024 Tuscany Preview
Italy: Tuscany, featured
Feb 2024
,Readers will want to pay special attention to new releases from Tuscany’s 2021 vintage. Favorable growing conditions throughout the year and the gentler winemaking that is increasingly the norm yielded wines that impress with stunning beauty, finesse and exceptional balance. I started tasting the 2021s from barrel in the summer of 2022. Even then, the potential of the vintage was evident. The bottled wines confirm my early impressions. Many estates produced some of their best wines ever. Our Tuscany Preview report covers a handful of new releases ahead of my larger articles coming later in 2024. Watch this space for more.