Finger Lakes: Follow the Leaders

BY BILLY NORRIS | FEBRUARY 20, 2025

“This is a horrifically extreme and terrifying region to grow anything in,” explains Christopher Bates, MS, whose projects in the Finger Lakes span three separate wine labels, a brewery and a slew of restaurants. 

Head Winemaker Wes Andrew of Atwater Vineyards muses, “The only consistent thing here is inconsistency.”

“The lakes that keep us alive in the winter eat us alive with mildew in the summer,” says Josh Wig, Co-Owner of Lamoreaux Landing.  

Making wine in the Finger Lakes is clearly no walk in the park, and yet year after year, estates across the region turn out compelling Rieslings, Cabernet Francs, Chardonnays and a litany of other wines. Even though the climate is brutally marginal at best, scrappy producers are able to fight their way through it. But that’s not the full picture. The Finger Lakes has been the American wine scene’s underdog for decades. What will it take to break through? 

Overlooking Seneca Lake from Boundary Breaks. 

A Refresher 

Situated directly south of Lake Ontario in northwestern New York State, the Finger Lakes—colloquially referred to as FLX—is the United States’ preeminent cool-climate (or cold-climate, as Forge’s Rick Rainey insists) growing region. It’s about five hours by car from several major cities; New York City, Cleveland, Pittsburgh, Philadelphia, Boston and Toronto are all more-or-less equidistant. The landscape is bucolic and evocative, some of the most stunningly beautiful farmland in America. The FLX boasts a long history of viticulture that dates back to the 1820s, with modern winemaking operations taking up shop beginning in the 1950s. 

Formally established in 1982, the Finger Lakes AVA includes 11 different lakes and comprises 9,035 planted acres of vineyard land. Of those 11 lakes, winegrowing centers around four. Seneca Lake is the largest and deepest, with the highest concentration of vineyards on its borders and its own AVA designation as of 2003. A prime strip of land known as the “Banana Belt” lies along Seneca’s western shore and is generally viewed as the tenderloin of the region. At over 600 feet deep, Seneca hasn’t frozen over since 1912. Cayuga Lake, the second largest and second deepest of all the lakes, also boasts its own formal AVA, established in 1989. It, too, hasn’t frozen since 1979. Keuka Lake is the shallowest of the four and hence freezes more regularly. It has the steepest slopes and the second highest concentration of vineyards, while Canandaigua Lake brings up the rear.  

The lakes themselves are critical to the region’s ability to actually grow grapes. The sheer aggregate volume of lake water holds so much thermal mass that in the summer, the lakes provide a cooling effect to counteract high temperatures. As ambient temperatures drop in the fall and winter, the lakes shed warmth, helping to shield vines from damage.   

Riesling vines at Silver Thread Winery on Seneca Lake. 

Not For the Faint of Heart

Viticulture in the Finger Lakes is incredibly difficult. Growing seasons are excessively short compared to those in more forgiving climates elsewhere in the world. Here, budbreak typically occurs in mid-to-late May, which can also coincide with devastating frost, should Mother Nature’s wintery tendencies not yet be satisfied. Harvest for dry wines ideally holds off until mid-October, though it not infrequently occurs before then if temperatures plummet. Achieving full ripeness, especially in red varieties, requires extremely careful farming and a dose of good old-fashioned luck, and even then is not guaranteed. 

Disease pressure due to the proximity of the lakes and substantial summer rainfall is always high. Regular spraying to control mildew is a foregone conclusion. Botrytis proliferates, whether you want it or not. Occasionally in the most brutal winters, even the mitigating effects of the lakes are not sufficient to fully protect dormant post-harvest vines from trunk diseases, which can result in massive kills. And now, in the throes of climate change, things aren’t getting any easier. Proprietor and winemaker Kelby James Russell of Apollo’s Praise notes, “Climate change hasn’t made it unilaterally warmer. Instead, we now have these unpredictable, erratic events that you would never see coming. Torrential, monsoonal rains, temperature swings…It’s wild.” Finger Lakes viticulture is not to be trifled with. 

As if the climate weren’t enough of an impediment, sourcing adequate labor is also tremendously difficult. Though some (very few) operations have the means to bring in workers on H-2B visas, there is a dearth of local farm laborers available. That’s a function of both the region’s relative isolation from major population centers and the fact that the sheer amount of labor necessitated by this challenging climate is prohibitively expensive given many of these small operations’ budgets. It’s always a tightrope.  

Husband-and-wife team Seb and Colleen Hardy’s Living Roots is an exciting project to watch on Keuka Lake.

The Grapes

American/European hybrid varieties still pepper the region, co-planted amongst a veritable who’s-who of the Vitis vinifera greatest hits. The hybrids are the product of Cornell University’s legacy work to develop cold-hardy and phylloxera-resistant grapes that can thrive here (Cornell is a short drive away from the FLX in Ithaca, NY). The winemaking community retains a certain nostalgia for hybrids, as evidenced by the surprising number of hybrid-variety wines I tasted for this report and a general reluctance to rip hybrids out in favor of vinifera. After all, hybrids are cheap to grow, cheap to farm and reliably productive. By acreage, Concord (the popular grape jelly variety) dominates, representing 19% of total plantings. Riesling accounts for 15%, followed by Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay at about 5% each. The remainder is a dizzying array of native varieties, hybrids and vinifera (according to the New York Wine & Grape Foundation’s 2024 report, 112 have been identified).

The Wines 

Initially planted by Dr. Konstantin Frank in 1958, Riesling is without a doubt what the Finger Lakes is best known for. Riesling is the most consistent performer in the glass, excelling in styles that run the gamut from tense, mineral-driven and nervy (like the 2023 Apollo’s Praise Riesling The Knoll and 2023 Hillick & Hobbs Dry Riesling Estate) to round, plush and generous (like the 2023 Forge Dry Riesling Wagner Caywood East), to supremely polished and elegant (like the 2023 Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling HJW Vineyard). Producers who allow their Rieslings to undergo spontaneous fermentations with native yeasts almost unequivocally reap the rewards in the form of aromatically dynamic wines that are far more expressive than their commercial yeast-fermented counterparts. 

Fred Merwarth, Head Winemaker and Co-Owner of Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyards, presented an extensive lineup of current and past vintages in the winery’s library cellar. 

To gain some context on how Finger Lakes wines develop, I asked the estates I visited to share library wines. Many chose Riesling. I tasted a number of Rieslings with at least ten years of age. Suffice it to say, these wines mature very slowly and gracefully, due in no small part to the naturally low pHs achievable here. Notably, the 2009 Element Winery Riesling is very much in the zone, with nary a sign of slowing down. Finger Lakes Rieslings are amongst the most affordable ageworthy wines in the United States, full stop. It bears mentioning that I did encounter several Rieslings, both young and old, that suffered from the effects of VA, aggressive chaptalization or off-putting reduction born of less-than-ideal oak regimens. Fortunately, these are the exception, not the rule. 

Walking through “The Knoll” of Lahoma Vineyards with Kelby James Russell of Apollo’s Praise. 

Cabernet Franc is the region’s flagship red, though that in and of itself is a fraught distinction. At best, Finger Lakes Franc is soft-textured, juicy, bright and red-fruited, though never more than medium in body. Assiduous oak usage is a key predictor of success with this variety. Producers with dialed-in élevage (such as Trestle Thirty One, Forge, Hermann J. Wiemer and Red Newt Cellars) capture Franc in its most flattering light. At the other end of the spectrum, FLX Franc can very easily lean vegetal, austere and aggressively tannic, which is not a surprise given how challenging it is to achieve both sugar and physiological ripeness here. The pitfalls are many. 

Chardonnay may eventually be the Finger Lakes’ ticket to the big time. It is less polarizing than both Riesling and Franc, and considerably more “comfortable” for most consumers. I found myself taken aback by the quality of several of the Chardonnays I tasted. Even young-vine plantings are capable of delivering ample, pliant wines with unique aromatics that feel distinctively regional. The 2019 Colloquial Wines Re(de)fein White (the new high-end venture from Christopher Bates, MS) is a stone-cold stunner, while the 2023 Apollo’s Praise Chardonnay Lahoma Vineyards (made by Julia Hoyle, Kelby James Russell’s wife/co-proprietor) is right on its heels, though a completely different expression. An increased focus on this variety in years to come could pay dividends for the FLX and its perception on the world stage. The Chardonnays were the wines that excited me most on my trip through the region. Also worth mentioning are serious Chardonnay-based sparkling wines from Ravines Wine Cellar, Dr. Konstantin Frank and Living Roots. 

The estate vineyards at Dr. Konstantin Frank, situated on the western side of Keuka Lake. 

Pinot Noir, initially thought to be the heir apparent to the FLX red variety throne, has yet to find its footing here. After tasting several examples across a range of producers, I remain unconvinced of Pinot’s viability in the Finger Lakes. All of the Pinots I tasted for this report were excessively light—not just in body, but in flavor and aroma—and many had bitter, astringent tannins. Great Pinot Noir requires at least a baseline of ripeness and concentration to express itself fully, and for this taster, that is not attainable in the Finger Lakes…at least not yet. I’d be happy to be proven wrong. It’s worth mentioning that Blaufränkisch (frequently called Lemberger in these parts) is much more reliably delicious, often delivering a wine akin to what one might typically expect from Pinot Noir, if a bit more peppery. Examples from Fox Run, Dr. Konstantin Frank and Idol Ridge are particularly well done.  

The other Bordeaux varieties made not-infrequent appearances at my tastings. Save for the surprisingly plush and fresh 2016 Sheldrake Point Meritage and a few others along the way, optimal ripeness for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is an elusive pursuit. Beyond these are a slew of others (often Germanic in origin). Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah are variable, with highs and lows. Additionally, wines made from hybrids, or hybrids blended with vinifera, are typically more novel than they are serious, but a few (most singularly the 2020 Vignoles Berry Select Martini-Becraft Selection from Anthony Road Wine Company, made in the spirit of Trockenbeerenauslese) are undeniably good.

Finally, a word on sweet wines. The climate here gives rise to plenty of natural acidity, especially with Riesling, which sets the stage for a nice balance of residual sugar in sweet wines. The 2021 Weis Vineyards Riesling Winzer Select Edel Süss feels like it teleported straight from Germany, not surprising given Proprietor/Winemaker Hans Peter Weis’ familial origins and teeth-cutting days on the slopes of the Mosel. Ice wines made from Riesling are also worth noting, though these are often more interesting when the grapes freeze naturally on the vine than when they’re flash-frozen after harvest. 

A jovial Hans Peter Weis with a bin of botrytised 2024 Riesling.

A Note on Vintages

Because of wildly varied winemaking approaches and the fact that essentially every vintage here is a difficult vintage in one way or another, vintage character is tougher to discern and generalize than in other winegrowing regions. That said, the cold and wet 2021 growing season typically yielded softer, lighter wines than the surrounding vintages. For the wines in the market, 2022 and 2023s are a sure bet (despite an unprecedented spring frost in 2023 that decimated yields in pockets), and all signs point to 2024 being the most stress-free, favorable vintage in many moons.

Time to Level Up

Arguably, the biggest challenge facing the Finger Lakes is not external, it’s from within. As the perpetual new kid on the block/next big thing/always the bridesmaid, the Finger Lakes has the vinous equivalent of a PR problem. Though there is no denying the requisite wine quality to compete on the world stage exists here, the FLX has never properly “arrived.” It’s time for the Finger Lakes to make its move. To do that, the region is going to have to loudly and broadly champion its greatest successes and seize its own seat at the table. 

Since the Farm Winery Act of 1976 made it relatively easy for small operations to set up shop and sell directly to consumers without bureaucratic red tape, many producers have hung their hats on local tourist traffic and tasting room sales. That works within a regional bubble but doesn’t move the needle in communicating the strengths of the region to the broader marketplace. A few of the preeminent estates here have placed a serious focus on their wholesale and distribution channels and continue to lean more and more heavily into that side of the business. These estates are leaders whose examples should be followed, as they alone cannot shoulder the reputation of the entire region without a more unified effort to spread the word. This is all part and parcel of conveying that the Finger Lakes takes itself seriously, which it does, and it should. Now, you should too. 

I tasted the wines for this report in the Finger Lakes in fall 2024, and in subsequent follow-up tastings at my office in Florida. I will be adding reviews for two producers, Heart and Hands and Red Tail Ridge, imminently. As a note, I have chosen to omit certain producers whose wines appear to be works in progress at this time.

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