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Friuli’s 2023 Vintage: Great Wine in the Face of Great Sacrifice
Italy: North, Slovenia, featured
, Oct 2025
Many regions in Italy struggled through an extremely trying growing season in 2023, but Friuli-Venezia Giulia endured the worst of it. Top producers made exceptional wines, but only through immense sacrifice. In some cases, the wines are absolutely brilliant, wonderfully unique and exciting. In others, they are a total let-down. It’s a vintage in which consumers will need to be selective.
Cellar Favorite: 2015 Domaine Mathilde et Yves Gangloff Côte-Rôtie La Barbarine
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Oct 2025
The 2015 Côte-Rôtie La Barbarine is an exquisite Northern Rhône wine that, after a decade, is revving its engines, ready for a long and delicious life ahead.
Day by Day: South Africa in 2025
South Africa, South Africa featured, featured
, Oct 2025
South African wine is as much about the place and the people as it is about what’s in the bottle. That’s true for every wine region, but in the Cape, it reaches its zenith. This report focuses on nearly 800 new releases that reaffirm the heights of quality and astonishing value on display, but also gives a feel for day-to-day life through the eyes of a visiting wine writer.
2021 Barolo Part Two: Restless Energy
Italy: Piedmont, featured
, Sep 2025
I was once again deeply impressed with the 2021 Barolos. My summer tastings focused on late releases and other wines I missed earlier in the year, along with a few 2021s I had a chance to revisit. Those tastings confirmed that 2021 is an exceptional year in terms of both quality and consistency. As I have written before, savvy Piedmont fans should note that it will be some time before another vintage of this caliber enters the market.
Cellar Favorite: 1964 Maison Léon Revol Côte-Rôtie
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Sep 2025
The cellar at Bern’s Steakhouse in Tampa is packed with unexpected gems, like this pristine 61-year-old Côte-Rôtie from a minor négociant.
Vinous Table: Rocca, Tampa, Florida
Vinous Table
, Sep 2025
Tampa, Florida may not be known as a culinary mecca, but talent among the city’s most ambitious chefs has been steadily on the rise. At the forefront is Chef Bryce Bonsack’s Rocca, a restaurant that embodies Tampa’s new wave of world-class dining options.
Veneto Rising: Amarone, Soave and Beyond
Italy: North, featured
, Sep 2025
Veneto is in a state of constant evolution, and its wines deserve attention now more than ever. From ageworthy Amarone to the remarkable rebirth of Soave Classico and the rising star of Valpolicella Superiore, quality is soaring as new styles and regions emerge.
El Bierzo & Galicia: The Sil River Illuminates a Different Side of Spanish Wine
featured, Spain
, Sep 2025
The Sil River connects wine regions from Bierzo to Valdeorras and Ribeira Sacra, before continuing as a tributary of the Miño toward Ribeiro and Rías Baixas. In this report, I explore the many expressions of Mencía, Godello, Treixadura and Albariño that can be found along its shores.
Cellar Favorite: Domaine J.L. Chave 1991 L’Hermitage & 1995 Ermitage Cuvée Cathelin
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Sep 2025
I recently had the privilege of drinking rare Rhônes from Domaine J.L. Chave, including one absolute showstopper.
Vinous Table: Lisboeta, London, UK
Portugal, Vinous Table
, Sep 2025
Lisboeta’s authentic and interesting dishes are lip-smackingly delicious. Every plate showcases well-sourced ingredients and impressive execution without pretentiousness.