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Roederer Estate L’Ermitage: A Complete Retrospective
featured, United States: California
, Jun 2025
This complete retrospective of Roederer Estate’s L’Ermitage, the first of its kind, was illuminating on so many fronts. Most importantly, it proved that Anderson Valley is exceptionally well suited to the production of fine, world-class sparkling wine. I was also deeply impressed with how well the wines age. I had tasted L’Ermitage from time to time but not on a consistent basis; many of these vintages were new to me. I tasted this vertical with longtime Winemaker Arnaud Weyrich and President Nicole Carter during a visit to the property in January 2025.
Bordeaux: The Crisis Laid Bare
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jun 2025
Bordeaux is facing its biggest crisis since the 1930s. After speaking candidly to people in and outside of Bordeaux, I felt a duty to depict the sheer scale of the calamity the Bordeaux wine industry is up against.
Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten
France: Bordeaux, featured, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured
, Jun 2025
The 2015 vintage in Bordeaux was warmly received on release, but 2016 stole the limelight just 12 months later. How is the vintage faring now that the wines have reached age ten? Blindfolds on.
Cellar Favorite: 1988 Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Champagne
, Jun 2025
If you have bottles of the 1988 Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé left in your cellar, do not hesitate to crack them open now.
An Eruption of Fine Wine on Mount Etna
featured, Italy: Center & South
, May 2025
Mount Etna has arrived. Long anticipated to join the ranks of Piedmont, Montalcino and Burgundy, Etna has established itself as a world-class viticultural zone. The region’s intricate array of contrade, distinctive vineyards and diverse terroirs yields site-transparent wines of incredible complexity. Mount Etna and its winemakers are poised to finally receive the attention they deserve.
The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem
France: Bordeaux, featured, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured
, May 2025
I have tasted a great deal of mature Bordeaux wine, including Sauternes, but I have not yet achieved the magic number of 100 different vintages from a single estate. I mentioned my goal to Lorenzo Pasquini, Yquem’s head winemaker, when visiting in April, and he promised to do his best to help, cracking open a selection of mainly off-vintages that filled some of the gaps.
Cellar Favorite: 1977 Diamond Creek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill
United States: California, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, napa
, May 2025
Even in its fourth decade, the 1977 Volcanic Hill shows little ageing in the glass, attesting to what is reputedly Diamond Creek’s longest-lived Cabernet Sauvignon.
Rosé Revolution: Light Red is the New Pink
featured
, May 2025
Rosé’s future looks redder, more serious and more satisfying than ever. The growing movement of bolder, ageworthy wines from far-flung locales is making it clear that Rosé isn’t just a season, it’s a category with staying power.
Vinous Table: Canteen, London, UK
featured, Vinous Table
, May 2025
Canteen successfully combines casual presentation with quality-driven dishes to provide some of the best Italian food in London. The dishes are polished and so delicious that you will be plotting your return at first chew.
The Diverse Villages of Rioja: A New Trend Emerges
featured, Spain
, May 2025
Rioja is changing. One of the most important factors in that change is the increased prominence of small and mid-sized producers and their interpretations of Rioja as village, vineyard or parcel wines. These wines stand in stark contrast to the region’s historically blended wines, and yet they may also represent the most promising future for Spain’s most famous winegrowing region.