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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020
featured, France: Bordeaux
, Jan 2023
This article cleans out my cupboard of miscellaneous Bordeaux tasting notes. It embraces legendary bottles and iconic vintages, minnows and seasons long-forgotten, even derided. Few pleasures in life surpass that of a bottle of wine with years under its belt.
Cellar Favorite: 1989 Domaine de Trévallon Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Les Baux
France, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2023
In the early days of my career, I drank a lot of mature bottles from Domaine de Trévallon, including one memorable dinner in London with numerous vintages.
The Deep Bench of Gigondas
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured
, Jan 2023
Like the rest of the Rhône valley, and Europe, Gigondas has been confronting hot, dry weather conditions since 2017. Luckily, the best, most experienced growers and winemakers have handled the situation with a steady hand. Still, there’s no question that many wines from recent vintages are distinctly powerful, often high in alcohol, with more dark fruit character and tannic structure than usual.
Cellar Favorite: 1974 Diamond Creek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Gravelly Meadow
United States: California, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2023
I have always had a soft spot for Diamond Creek Vineyards, charmed by Al and Boots Brounstein, who would regularly pour their wines in London in the early days of my career.
The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Jan 2023
The 2012 Brunello di Montalcinos immediately appealed to buyers, consumers and restaurant-goers. While warm and dry, 2012 yielded balanced wines, but the big question has always been: how well will they mature over time?
Luján de Cuyo: Old Vines and a Patchwork of Soils
Argentina, featured
, Jan 2023
Luján de Cuyo is a historic region that is reinventing itself and looking to a terroir-based future. This report covers the relaunch of the first D.O.C. in South America, several new Malbecs and a handful of old vintages, exploring how a region with much to offer is making the most of its best qualities.
Burgundy 2021: The Market
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jan 2023
This opinion piece was originally composed as part of my 2021 Burgundy report. Given the escalation of prices in recent years, here, I discuss what is fueling this inflation, its potential consequences and trends I have seen with respect to Burgundy’s distribution.
2019 Barolo: Back on Track
Piedmont, featured
, Jan 2023
After the highly problematic and uneven 2018s, Barolo bounces back with a stellar vintage in 2019 that could very well represent the beginning of a new cycle of strong, outstanding years for this historic appellation. The 2019s are potent, tightly wound wines that will thrill readers who appreciate the nuance, subtlety and structure of Nebbiolo. Today, the 2019s show elements of youthful austerity that, at times, recall vintages such as 2016, 2005 and 1999. The only thing 2019 lacks is some of the visceral excitement found in the very best years, although the top wines certainly check all the boxes.
2021 Sonoma Preview
United States: California, featured
, Jan 2023
It’s far too early for me to have a complete view of the 2021 vintage in Sonoma County, but the wines I have tasted so far suggest this is a very good and possibly outstanding vintage. The best 2021s are deep, beautifully layered and highly expressive of site. Watch this space for updates in the coming weeks.
Cellar Favorite: 2001 Weingut Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Auslese *** Goldkapsel
Germany, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2023
Klaus-Peter Keller’s wines have become collector catnip in recent years, with prices to match. It seems a long time since I made my only visit to the estate. In 2022, I was fortunate to taste several recent vintages and almost forgot this mature gem.