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Curse of the Fours: Bouchard Père 1861-2014
featured, France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Mar 2026
The word for “four” might be unlucky in Japan, but it certainly was not unlucky with regard to a stunning tasting of wines from Bouchard Père’s cellar back to the 19th century. If that’s not enough, a second Bouchard Père dinner held without a numerical theme was just as enthralling. Together, they form an unrepeatable vinous journey through time.
Cellar Favorite: Kopke 80-Year-Old Tawny Port
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Portugal, Fortified Wines & Spirits
, Mar 2026
There has been a consumer trend towards longer-aged tawnies over the last few years. I find that these wines can be superior to the more renowned vintage Ports, often a little mellower and less high-toned. They are the fortified equivalent of a warm fire on a dismal winter day.
Remembering Daniel Cathiard
Vinous Remembers, France: Bordeaux
, Feb 2026
I was deeply saddened to learn of Daniel Cathiard’s recent passing. With his wife and life partner Florence, Cathiard transformed Smith Haut Lafitte from a sleepy, run-down estate into one of Bordeaux’s most respected châteaux.
Rocca di Montegrossi: Act Two
Italy: Tuscany, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Feb 2026
This recent vertical was a terrific opportunity to revisit a number of older wines, essentially picking up where my 2018 article, “Rocca di Montegrossi: Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino 1995–2013,” left off. From his first vintage in 1995, Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi has crafted powerful yet elegant wines that capture the truest essence of this very special part of Chianti Classico.
2025 New Zealand White Wines: Pump Up the Volume
New Zealand, featured
, Feb 2026
New Zealand turned the volume knob to the right in 2025. Crops were large, tanks were filled up, and the season spoke loudly from the outset. Yet the cool opening notes of summer set a slower tempo, and not every vineyard kept pace as the year unfolded. As ever, it was those who adjusted the dial that got it right, managing yields and nutrition based on nature’s bounty.
Cellar Favorite: Château Latour 2026 New Releases
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Feb 2026
There’s a lot to like in the 2026 releases from Château Latour. I tasted the wines with Estate Director Hélène Génin during a visit to the château in December 2025.
Vinous Table: Bern’s Steakhouse, Tampa, Florida
Vinous Table
, Feb 2026
The first rule of Bern’s is: “Don’t talk about Bern’s.” For years, I had heard tales of this undercover gem with a wine list that makes the Mariana Trench look shallow. Finally, on a visit to the Sunshine State, I had the opportunity to visit and see if Bern’s deserves its reputation.
The Landmark Vintage: 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Retrospective
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Feb 2026
From one of the most heralded vintages in three decades, the 2006 Brunellos have now turned 20 years old. Do they live up to the initial lofty expectations?
The Fantastic Four: Alto Piemonte, Canavese, Valtellina & Valle d’Aosta
Italy: Piedmont, featured
, Feb 2026
My annual trip through northern Italy once again highlighted the extraordinary diversity of the stretch of tiny appellations often marked by heroic viticulture and rugged landscapes. Here at the foothills and lower slopes of the Alps, readers will find some of the most fascinating, complex wines in the world. This report focuses on Alto Piemonte and also looks at Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo-based wines in nearby appellations, including Canavese and Valtellina. For the first time, I also include wines from a handful of estates in Valle d’Aosta, which shares a border with Carema.
Cellar Favorite: 1961 & 2019 Smith Haut Lafitte
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Feb 2026
There is nothing greater than a good man, and Daniel Cathiard was a good man. He and his wife, Florence, took Smith Haut-Lafitte, a once dilapidated estate, and devoted their lives to creating two of the region’s finest wines, both red and white. These two bottles were opened with my oldest friends to raise a toast to Daniel Cathiard.