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Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023
France: Bordeaux, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, featured
, Sep 2025
To mark 100 years since the Lurton family bought Brane-Cantenac, Henri Lurton organised a vertical tasting that demonstrated how this Margaux wine has improved so dramatically during his reign. A few gems then showed that his ancestors also had a magic touch when it came to turning grapes into wine.
Making the Case for Campania
Italy: Center & South, featured
, Sep 2025
Campania is one of Italy's most underappreciated winegrowing regions, consistently producing world-class, ageworthy wines that offer outstanding value. Yet Campania remains largely overlooked. Despite its historical challenges, a quiet revolution led by dedicated winemakers has positioned Campanian wine to become a cornerstone for serious collectors.
Cellar Favorite: 2016 Storm Wines Pinot Noir Vrede
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, South Africa
, Sep 2025
During a Burgundy and South Africa Chardonnay/Pinot Noir dinner in Stellenbosch, it was abundantly clear that the Cape offers immense potential with respect to those grape varieties. As vines age, one can only imagine the heights that are achievable. One standout that evening came courtesy of winemaker Hannes Storm.
Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ The Bull, Charlbury, UK
Vinous Table
, Sep 2025
This year’s edition of the annual Grouse Club saw the three musketeers relocate to the rolling hills of the Cotswolds. We headed to The Bull in the village of Charlbury, which first opened its doors in the 16th century. I wager that during its half-millennial existence, these walls had never witnessed such a bevy of fine claret.
Rheinhessen, Pfalz & Mittelrhein: A Game of Patience
featured, Germany
, Sep 2025
Two thousand twenty-four was a challenging year for the winemakers in Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Mittelrhein. Frost, rain, and a hot, dry summer required immense patience. In the end, lovers of classic, cool, svelte but highly expressive Rieslings are in for a treat in 2024.
Jura: Nature Hits Hard, but the Wines Fight Back
France, featured
, Sep 2025
The 2024 vintage in Jura was among the most difficult in recent history, with frost, downy mildew and resulting low yields putting immense pressure on growers. On a more positive note, the 2023s offer ample freshness and accessibility, while the current-release 2017 and 2018 oxidative wines showcase the region’s stylistic range. A closer look at Vin Jaune production reveals how geology, cellar conditions and yeast combine to shape this singular wine style.
Cellar Favorite: 2002 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Sep 2025
A recent lunch featured a blind tasting of two fascinating bottles: the 2002 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru and the 1973 Jean Chenu & Fils Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru.
Vinous Table: Four Twenty Five, New York, USA
Vinous Table
, Sep 2025
Located in the heart of midtown Manhattan, chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Four Twenty Five is a welcome addition to New York City’s vibrant dining scene. For his latest venture, Vongerichten partnered with chef Jonathan Benno, a culinary star in his own right.
Rheingau and Nahe 2024: Rain, Frost and Unexpected Brilliance
featured, Germany
, Sep 2025
While the Rheingau escaped the terrible frost events that devastated many Nahe vineyards in April 2024, late summer rains spelled lower sugar levels. Slow ripening and sufficient moisture made for aromatic, if slender, wines. In the Nahe, yields were severely curtailed by spring frosts, but the top estates made some of their most crystalline wines ever.
A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022
France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Sep 2025
This year, Château Lafleur celebrates four decades of ownership by the Guinaudeau family. To mark the occasion, a weekend in Austria witnessed a unique vertical of every vintage from 1985 to 2022, all poured from magnum. How did this Pomerol-turned-Vin de France perform?