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Nebbiolo Shines in Alto Piemonte, Carema & Valtellina
Italy: Piedmont, featured
, Jun 2023
It’s an exciting time to explore the small appellations that make up Northern Italy’s Alto Piemonte, Carema and Valtellina districts. There was a period, not too long ago, when many wines in these regions were either lackluster or muddled by overly pushed winemaking that obscured terroir. Outstanding wines were very much the exception rather than the rule. That has changed dramatically in recent years through a combination of dynamic young estates that have brought tremendous energy to the mix and older, more established names also raising the bar. Quite simply, I have never tasted more riveting, breathtaking wines from these appellations than I have over the last six months or so.
Cellar Favorite: 2015 Domaine Y. Clerget Meursault Les Chevalières
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, May 2023
Sometime in the fall of 2016, I started hearing the buzz about Thibaud Clerget taking over his family’s domaine, thanks in large part to Damien Ravion, who worked at the time at Bistro de l’Hotel before leaving to start L’Expression, his restaurant in Beaune. A few days later, there I was, in the cellar with Clerget tasting the 2015s from barrel. The quality of the wines was immediately apparent, as was Clerget’s potential.
Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview
France: Champagne, featured
, May 2023
Champagne is one of the most dynamic regions in the world. Change and innovation continue at an increasingly fast pace. Many of the most coveted wines now command Burgundy-like premiums, a relatively recent phenomenon here. There’s a lot more going on beyond the obvious, though, and plenty to explore.
2022 Bordeaux En Primeur: Balance Imbalance
featured, France: Bordeaux
, May 2023
The 2022s are some of the most memorable young wines I have ever tasted in Bordeaux. The best 2022s are magnificent, viscerally thrilling wines that show what is possible with thoughtful approaches to viticulture and winemaking. A number of properties at all levels made their best wines ever. But 2022 is not consistently great from top to bottom, so some selection is warranted.
The 2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: Stepping Back in Time
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, United States: California
, Apr 2023
Two thousand-one is one of the most important vintages in Napa Valley of the last 25 years or so. Highly regarded at the time, 2001 continues to impress with dark, potent wines, many of which are in the sweet spot for current drinking.
Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio 1962-2017
Italy: Tuscany, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2023
Castello di Monsanto’s Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio forever changed the history of Chianti Classico as a region and wine. Consistency, a fervent belief in Sangiovese blended with a touch of indigenous red varieties, and a remarkable track record going back several decades have elevated Il Poggio to what is today – one of Italy’s most iconic wines. This unforgettable vertical back to the inaugural 1962 vintage provided myriad insights into the history of the estate and the evolution of the wine over the last five decades.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Mar 2023
This year’s presentation of the new releases from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti marked the beginning of a new chapter. It was the first time new Co-Managers Perrine Fenal and Bertrand de Villaine presented the wines following the retirement of Aubert de Villaine.
Cellar Favorite: 2019 Ao Yun
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, China
, Mar 2023
Ao Yun presently spans 27 hectares under vine, all organically farmed, planted in four villages perched at more than 2,000 meters in elevation above the Mekong River in China’s Yunnan province. The first 14 hectares were planted on own-rooted vines by the Chinese Government as part of a plan to stem the exodus of the local population from the countryside. LVMH planted a further 13 hectares using a variety of rootstocks to form the property as it is today.
Vinous Table: Ci Siamo, New York, NY
Vinous Table, United States: New York
, Mar 2023
Ci Siamo, a recent addition from Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, has fast become one of my go-to spots in New York City for delicious, hearty food and fabulous wine. I can’t say enough good things about Ci Siamo. Two recent dinners have been nothing short of superb.
2020 Tuscany Preview
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Feb 2023
Our Tuscany Preview focuses on a number of wines ahead of my comprehensive reports on coastal Tuscany and Chianti Classico scheduled for later this year. Watch this space for more new releases.