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2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible

featured, France: Bordeaux

Antonio Galloni, Feb 2024

After three highly successful vintages, Bordeaux owners and winemakers were presented with a highly challenging growing season in 2021. En primeur tastings presaged a vintage with a high degree of variability. Extensive tastings from bottle confirm that initial first impression. Within that context, though, readers will find a wide range of compelling wines that merit attention.

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Vinous Table: Angler, San Francisco, CA

Vinous Table, United States: California

Antonio Galloni, Feb 2024

Angler is one of my favorite restaurants in San Francisco. Like many routines, what were once regular visits were disrupted by COVID-19. This was my first time back in several years. Perhaps for that reason, I especially enjoyed this dinner.

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Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2024 New Releases

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux

Antonio Galloni, Feb 2024

For more than a decade now, Château Latour has released their wines in bottle only after several years, when the team feels they are ready to start drinking. This year’s releases provide an opportunity to revisit wines from three very different vintages, each with something to offer. I tasted the wines with Technical Director Hélène Genin during a visit to the château in December 2023.

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2024 Tuscany Preview

featured, Italy: Tuscany

Antonio Galloni, Feb 2024

Readers will want to pay special attention to new releases from Tuscany’s 2021 vintage. Favorable growing conditions throughout the year and the gentler winemaking that is increasingly the norm yielded wines that impress with stunning beauty, finesse and exceptional balance. I started tasting the 2021s from barrel in the summer of 2022. Even then, the potential of the vintage was evident. The bottled wines confirm my early impressions. Many estates produced some of their best wines ever. Our Tuscany Preview report covers a handful of new releases ahead of my larger articles coming later in 2024. Watch this space for more.

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Alto Piemonte: Small Is Beautiful

featured, Italy: Piedmont

Antonio Galloni, Feb 2024

Alto Piemonte remains one of the most glorious, under the radar regions in the world. Wines of delicacy and transparency communicate the essence of site in the handful of villages that comprise this series of small appellations in Northern Italy. Many estates featured in this report are quite small, making some bottles hard to find. Nevertheless, consumers and professionals seeking fine, artisan wines of place that can diversify any cellar will find so much to admire in Alto Piemonte today.

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Festa del Barolo 2023 Recap

featured, Italy: Piedmont

Antonio Galloni, Jan 2024

Festa del Barolo is right around the corner. As we make the final preparations, so many memories of the 2023 edition come rushing back. In 2023, we presented an expanded program of tastings, seminars and dinners. This is a look at some of the many highlights.

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2022 Sonoma Preview: A First Look

United States: California, featured

Antonio Galloni, Jan 2024

Pinot Noir leads the way in what is turning out to be a surprising set of new releases from Sonoma. The 2022 growing season was marked by several key events, most notably record-setting heat over Labor Day weekend. Not surprisingly, there is some variability, but there are also plenty of stunning wines that are well worth seeking out. This Preview covers new releases from Sonoma and neighboring regions. As is our custom for this article, we will post frequent updates in the coming weeks, which we feel is the best way to keep readers current, given the sheer volume of wines released this time of year.

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2020 Barolo: Selective Excellence

featured, Italy: Piedmont

Antonio Galloni, Jan 2024

Grace, elegance and understatement are some of the qualities readers will find in the 2020 Barolos. The best wines are undeniably striking. That said, the vintage is not an unqualified success, as the growing season presented its fair share of challenges. Overall, 2020 is a vintage of mid-weight Barolos. These are wines to admire for their balance and seductive appeal more than their power or structure.

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Cellar Favorite: 2010 Château Canon

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux

Antonio Galloni, Jan 2024

The 2010 Château Canon is interesting to revisit today, especially considering the vintages that have come after it, some of which will take their place among the greatest ever made here.

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Ulysse Collin Rosé de Saignée Les Maillons Vertical

featured, France: Champagne, Verticals & Retrospectives

Antonio Galloni, Jan 2024

My most recent visit to Champagne Ulysse Collin was not especially well-timed. Then again, maybe it was. Olivier Collin had just finished disgorging his next set of releases, so I could not taste those wines. Instead, Collin surprised me with a vertical of his Rosé de Saignée Les Maillons, long one of my favorites here and a wine I have followed since its debut. Rosé de Saignée is also a style of Champagne I personally enjoy quite a bit, as it is so well suited to the dinner table.