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Vinous Table: Hail! Hail! Yakitori!

Vinous Table, Japan

Neal Martin, Jun 2026

Yakitori was once seen as a staple of the commoners’ diet, but Japan's talented chefs are seeking to take it to the highest level by sourcing the finest ingredients and putting their own ingenious twists on standard recipes. I have never lost my soft spot for yakitori, and am happy to see it being reappraised and reinvented within Japan’s contemporary dining scene.

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Vinous Table: La Kanro, Osaka, Japan

Vinous Table, Japan

Neal Martin, Jun 2026

To those oenophiles venturing to Japan’s second-largest city, La Kanro will look tempting because it boasts a 1,000-bottle, Burgundy-focused wine list. Though it did deliver on that promise, so much went awry that I cannot recommend it.

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Vinous Table: Hortensia, Tokyo, Japan

Vinous Table, Japan

Neal Martin, Jun 2026

Hortensia was deeply impressive from start to finish. Flavours marry beautifully, presentation is stunning and there is continuity between dishes. This was not just my favourite meal in Japan. It was one of my meals of the year.

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Vinous Table: Row on 5, London, UK

Vinous Table

Neal Martin, May 2026

Freshly minted two stars, gunning for a third. A wunderkind chef. Star-studded wine list. Award-winning sommelier. If ever a new restaurant deserves the Vinous Table treatment, it is Row On 5.

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Vinous Table: L'Ecailler du Bistrot, Paris, France

Vinous Table

Antonio Galloni, May 2026

Located in the 11th Arrondissement, L'Ecailler du Bistrot is well worth a visit. As its name implies, L'Ecailler du Bistrot specializes in oysters, along with mostly fish and seafood. A selection of older wines is a nice surprise.

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Vinous Table: Villa Crespi, Lago d'Orta, Italy

Italy: North, Vinous Table

Antonio Galloni, Apr 2026

Lago d'Orta is one of Italy’s hidden jewels, far off the normal tourist itineraries that have made some destinations far too crowded to enjoy. Villa Crespi sits confidently on its shores, an oasis of relaxation and a temple to the very finest Italian hospitality.

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Vinous Table: Ploussard, London, UK

Vinous Table

Neal Martin, Mar 2026

Ploussard was a joy from start to finish, one of my favourite meals in some time. I warmly recommend this refreshingly unpretentious local restaurant for its standard of cuisine and quality of ingredients.

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Vinous Table: L'Enclume, Cartmel, UK

Vinous Table

Neal Martin, Mar 2026

Any gastronome visiting the UK must venture to Lancashire or Cumbria to experience its culinary heights. A prescient forerunner of farm-to-table dining, L'Enclume earned three Michelin stars in 2022 and delivers a truly excellent dining experience from start to finish.

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Vinous Table: La Table du Square, Beaune, France

France: Burgundy, Vinous Table

Neal Martin, Mar 2026

It is easy to see why La Table du Square is one of Beaune’s most popular places to dine. There is always a lively atmosphere, and the milk-fed lamb has become one of the area’s must-eat dishes.

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Vinous Table: Bern’s Steakhouse, Tampa, Florida

Vinous Table

Neal Martin, Feb 2026

The first rule of Bern’s is: “Don’t talk about Bern’s.” For years, I had heard tales of this undercover gem with a wine list that makes the Mariana Trench look shallow. Finally, on a visit to the Sunshine State, I had the opportunity to visit and see if Bern’s deserves its reputation.