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The Mighty Ducks: 2023 Loire Valley Reds
France: Loire, featured
Aug 2025
,If there was ever a vintage where red wines from the Loire Valley were the championship underdog team, 2023 was it. Growers had every reason to throw their secateurs down and quit, but they kept their heads down and doggedly fought on. Ultimately, the perfect season isn’t always necessary to achieve good results. The 2023 vintage exemplifies that.
Sancerre 2024: A Test of Endurance
France: Loire, featured
Aug 2025
,There’s no sugar-coating the 2024 vintage. The wines are unlikely to show the region in its best light. In a growing season defined by rain and cold, one must wonder: will Sancerre’s allure prove as weatherproof as its reputation?
Sancerre: Combat Fatigue
France: Loire, featured
Aug 2024
,Nature can be a fickle beast, giving just as quickly as it takes away. The rollercoaster ride that elements have put on in recent years has left the grape growers of Sancerre and surrounding appellations exhausted. Their hopes rise as steeply as the Mont Damné slopes before being dashed over and over again. And yet the sun rises each morning, bringing the possibility that this might be the day when their luck changes.
Loire Chenin Blanc: Chaume the Way
France: Loire, featured
Jul 2024
,Searching for its soul as well as sales, the Loire’s Chenin Blanc producers hope the creation of crus for dry whites will improve quality and their reputation on the world wine stage.
Loire Reds: Beyond the Unicorn
France: Loire, featured
Jan 2024
,When it comes to Loire Valley reds, there is one cult producer whose bottles consistently steal the limelight: Clos Rougeard. Following the inauguration of its revamped winery, financed by the Mariana-Trench-deep pockets of its new owners, it’s timely to consider the impact of this unicorn on local producers and international consumers.
Loire Chenin: Dividing Lines
France: Loire, featured
Oct 2023
,Chenin Blanc producers in the Loire Valley are not just divided geologically but ideologically, with widely varying interpretations of place of origin. Throw two contrasting vintages into the mix, and the diversity of the region’s latest releases is dizzying.
Book Excerpt: Vintage Crime – A Short History of Wine Fraud
New Zealand, France: Loire, featured
Oct 2023
,In her new book Vintage Crime – A Short History of Wine Fraud, Rebecca Gibb MW tells the history of wine through some of the most well-known cases of fraud, in addition to less well-documented incidents that intrigued Rebecca personally.
Sancerre’s Charm Offensive
France: Loire, featured
Jul 2023
,Two thousand and twenty-two provided another warm, dry summer in Sancerre, but the wines have achieved a harmony they failed to capture in previous hot seasons. It’s time to explore why this is a more consistent and balanced vintage.
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Marc Brédif Vouvray Grande Année
France: Loire, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
May 2023
,I cannot deny that I’ve proselytized the 1971 vintage to the point where I must sound like the most scratched record in my vinyl collection (namely, a war-torn copy of With The Beatles handed down by my nan and kept for sentimental reasons). But it is true that you can travel the globe from wine region to wine region and find marvels that continue to drink well. Case in point, this gorgeous Loire that I chanced upon in London recently. I am a big fan of mature Vouvray, and Brédif seems to have a treasure trove of mature vintages.
Sancerre Sees Red
France: Loire, featured
Dec 2022
,Prices of red Burgundy seem to show no sign of easing. In the search for an alternative, wine lovers may head east toward Germany or further afield to New Zealand and Oregon. However, a mere two-hour drive from the Côte de Nuits lies an often-overlooked Pinot Noir region, sitting on coveted ground.