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Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2024
Lafite-Rothschild can age for decades, but it can be a difficult wine to understand. This vertical stretches back to the 19th century and features some riveting examples of the First Growth and vintages that were reminders of how precarious it can be opening ancient Claret.
An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Mar 2024
Do you want one of the most comprehensive reports on Gruaud Larose ever written? Do you want to know its history and first-hand information from proprietor Jean Merlaut? Do you want 70 tasting notes stretching back in time to 1831? You’ve come to the right place.
Borgo del Tiglio Rosso Riserva: The Road Less Traveled
Italy: North, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Mar 2024
Why would one of the greatest producers of white wine in Italy want to organize a tasting of the second label of their red wine? This is the question that was on my mind as I drove down the country road that leads to Cormòns, the small hamlet that is home to Borgo del Tiglio.
Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Mar 2024
The Bordeaux 2014 vintage has reached ten years of age, an ideal opportunity to look back, both in blind and sighted tastings, and see how the wines are evolving. As usual, there were plenty of surprises, not always positive, however.
Merci, Monsieur Amiot: Clos des Lambrays 1923-2021
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Mar 2024
Behind every label of an iconic wine lie nameless men and women whose combined talent and labor led to its creation. This vertical of Clos des Lambrays is dedicated to Etienne Amiot, a predecessor of Jacques Devauges, who oversaw the creation of these sublime wines.
Come On Aline: Château Coutet 1943-2017
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Feb 2024
Château Coutet has been revered as one of Sauternes/Barsac’s most prestigious sweet wines for decades. This article delves into its long history, but as we discover, under the indefatigable Aline Baly, Coutet is an estate that constantly looks to the future.
Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Feb 2024
A First Growth vertical that spans 160 years and took over three years to complete? This epic tasting of Château Latour is virtually unique in scope. But instead of simply glorifying ancient vintages, this article painstakingly examines the backdrop to the wines, winemaking practices, those involved in their creation, critics’ reception, market prices and the ups and the downs of this storied estate.
2013 Brunello di Montalcino: The Throwback Vintage
Verticals & Retrospectives, Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Feb 2024
The 2013 Brunellos were often misunderstood on release. The cool, extended growing season yielded aromatic, high-toned wines sparked with elevated acidity, making them immediately appealing. Could they possibly be classic? Now, ten years later, the proof is in the bottle, and 2013 has shown itself to be worthy of attention.
Flirting with Perfection - Giaconda Chardonnay 2011-2021
Verticals & Retrospectives, Australia, featured, Argentina featured
, Jan 2024
There are more famous Chardonnays in Australia, but none are more keenly collected or tightly held than Rick Kinzbrunner’s enigmatic Giaconda. Originally conceived in California, Giaconda not only put the small outpost of Beechworth in Victoria on the international map, it also helped an entire nation to find its Chardonnay mojo. A rare chance to taste the last decade of vintages exceeded expectations and showcased a world-class wine that can compete with the very best.
Ulysse Collin Rosé de Saignée Les Maillons Vertical
France: Champagne, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jan 2024
My most recent visit to Champagne Ulysse Collin was not especially well-timed. Then again, maybe it was. Olivier Collin had just finished disgorging his next set of releases, so I could not taste those wines. Instead, Collin surprised me with a vertical of his Rosé de Saignée Les Maillons, long one of my favorites here and a wine I have followed since its debut. Rosé de Saignée is also a style of Champagne I personally enjoy quite a bit, as it is so well suited to the dinner table.