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The Minnow: Sigalas Rabaud 1975-2019
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jul 2024
Continuing my coverage of Sauternes, big and small, this look at Sigalas Rabaud falls into the latter category as one of the appellation’s smallest First Growths. This vertical, held at the property, covers vintages from 1975 to 2019.
Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jul 2024
Bordeaux vintages are so fascinating that people have been known to write entire books about them! Here, I focus on two particularly intriguing but stylistically different vintages, 1988 and 1989. The former has never quite had the same reputation as the latter. Did that play out during these themed dinners?
Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, Italy: Tuscany
, Jun 2024
It remains one of the greatest tastings I have ever been a part of, either as an attendee or a host. Forty-six wines, all of them in superb shape. Even wines from smaller or less well-known vintages were sublime. Not a single bottle was corked or oxidized. The memories from this retrospective of Gianfranco Soldera’s wines will last forever.
Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Jun 2024
Every year, I round up all the stray bottles of Burgundy and publish them in a single article. This year’s edition is the customary eclectic array of wines stretching back over decades, from feted recent vintages to others best forgotten, from legendary producers to “Who?”
It’s All in the Name: Domaine Pierre Vincent
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Jun 2024
Pierre Vincent is one of the most talented winemakers working in Burgundy. After producing a raft of great wines at Domaine de la Vougeraie and then Domaine Leflaive, Vincent is about to embark upon a new chapter in his career, the 2023s representing the maiden vintage of wines under his own name.
Ironing Out The Kinks: Jim Barry The Armagh 1985-2021
Australia, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jun 2024
The tale of Jim Barry’s Armagh Shiraz has mirrored the national wine story over the last forty years. Terroirs with the highest aspirations from the outset have taken time to hit their straps, with occasional missteps along the way. Thanks to greater precision in the vineyard and winery, the last ten years have seen this Clare Valley Shiraz slip into a neat groove with a unique mix of sheer power and finesse. This was showcased in this complete vertical tasting stretching back to the inaugural 1985 vintage.
2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, United States: California
, May 2024
The 2012 and 2013 vintages are among the best in recent memory. Both were met with considerable acclaim. Now that the wines have passed their tenth birthdays, it’s time to look back and see how things have shaped up, to examine which wines met or exceeded expectations and which did not.
Oldies But Goldies: Bouchard Père 1892-2012
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2024
Bouchard Père & Fils own one of the deepest Burgundy libraries of vintages back to the 19th century. This article recounts last November’s dinner when bottles with years ending in two stretching back through decades were opened.
Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2024
Lafite-Rothschild can age for decades, but it can be a difficult wine to understand. This vertical stretches back to the 19th century and features some riveting examples of the First Growth and vintages that were reminders of how precarious it can be opening ancient Claret.
An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Mar 2024
Do you want one of the most comprehensive reports on Gruaud Larose ever written? Do you want to know its history and first-hand information from proprietor Jean Merlaut? Do you want 70 tasting notes stretching back in time to 1831? You’ve come to the right place.