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Inflections In Chardonnay: Chablis 2024 & 2025
France: Burgundy, featured
, Aug 2026
While Chablis is a constant source of quality in the Burgundy landscape, what is not constant is the weather. The 2024 and 2025 growing seasons posed very different challenges that stymied quality in some places but gave rise to marvellous wines in others.
Cellar Favorite: 1989 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Aug 2026
There is something authentic and unadorned about a mature Premier Cru Chablis. The 1989 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru is firing on all cylinders.
Cellar Favorite: 1986 Domaine Roland Lavantureux Chablis Village
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Jul 2026
Many of Chablis’ wines are consumed before they reach their prime, but Chablis can age beautifully in bottle. Case in point: the 1986 Chablis Village from Domaine Roland Lavantureux.
Made of Titanium: 2022 Burgfest Whites
burgfest, France: Burgundy, featured
, Jun 2026
The 2022 white Burgundies were impressive from barrel. This year’s multi-day blind tasting of more than 250 bottled 2022s was quite possibly the finest Burgfest ever.
Learn from the Best: Méo-Camuzet 1991-2013
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured
, May 2026
Méo-Camuzet is one of Burgundy’s most revered producers. Following an insightful dinner that featured their top cuvées, this article details the complex origins of the domaine, Henri Jayer’s role in its evolution and how his willing pupil, Jean-Nicolas Méo, has steered the domaine to great heights.
2023 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Through the Dark
France: Burgundy, featured
, Mar 2026
The annual tasting of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s new releases provided a terrific opportunity to taste the domaine’s complete range and check in on a few older wines as well. Co-Managers Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal presented the vintage and wines, continuing a tradition that goes back several decades.
Vinous Table: La Table du Square, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Mar 2026
It is easy to see why La Table du Square is one of Beaune’s most popular places to dine. There is always a lively atmosphere, and the milk-fed lamb has become one of the area’s must-eat dishes.
Burgundy 2024: The State of Play
France: Burgundy, featured
, Mar 2026
There is much handwringing about the escalation of Burgundy prices. In this opinion piece, I disentangle the interrelated factors that have upheld that gravity-defying escalation, its consequences and how it all might play out.
Curse of the Fours: Bouchard Père 1861-2014
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured
, Mar 2026
The word for “four” might be unlucky in Japan, but it certainly was not unlucky with regard to a stunning tasting of wines from Bouchard Père’s cellar back to the 19th century. If that’s not enough, a second Bouchard Père dinner held without a numerical theme was just as enthralling. Together, they form an unrepeatable vinous journey through time.
Vinous Table: La Lune, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2026
The litmus test of a restaurant is not whether it blows you away on your first sitting, but whether it blows you away on your tenth, or your twentieth. Despite how many times I have eaten at La Lune, my favourite restaurant in Beaune, I always depart feeling elated.








