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Burgundy 2023: The State of Play
featured, France: Burgundy
, Jan 2025
Following my Burgundy 2023 report, I have penned my views on the state of the Burgundy market after conversing with growers in the Côte d’Or, head buyers at UK merchants and, most crucially, consumers at several tastings in London in January 2025.
The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023
featured, France: Burgundy
, Jan 2025
The 2023 vintage in the Côte d’Or offers many pleasures. After six weeks tasting nearly 2,500 wines across 160 domaines, it is clear that while the year has its shortcomings, the best wines will have you singing their praises.
Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Valmur Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2025
What a pleasure it is to taste Raveneau’s 2016 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru. The 2016 has come together beautifully over the last few years.
Cellar Favorite: 1988 Domaine Pierre Morey Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Dec 2024
I have always loved the wines from Pierre Morey before he joined as winemaker at Domaine Leflaive in the very year the 1988 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru was made.
Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds
featured, France: Burgundy
, Oct 2024
Burgundy covets caprice. Tasters, critics and even winemakers can only approximate how its wines evolve. Predicting Burgundy is like herding cats–it’s just a more enjoyable undertaking with less meowing.
Cellar Favorite: 2008 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Sep 2024
I know, I know, I know. With all the discussion about the unaffordability of Burgundy, why this 2008 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru? Simply because this bottle was not scurried away in some dusty cellar. It was not used to make a profit. It was not brandished about to show off someone’s wealth. It had one reason and one reason only–to be drunk for what it is, something as banal and wondrous as wine.
Chablis 2022-2023: Here Comes the Sun King
featured, France: Burgundy
, Aug 2024
Chablis was bearing the brunt of a challenging growing season when I visited in 2024, but at least the previous two vintages refilled cellars. What are the differences between 2022 and 2023, and what should you look to buy?
Mâconnais 2022/2023: Don’t Pass Me By
featured, France: Burgundy
, Aug 2024
The Mâconnais has a wellspring of delicious and affordable Chardonnay that it could be argued is only now demonstrating what its finest terroirs can achieve…in the right hands. More than just Pouilly-Fuissé, more than its recently introduced Premier Crus, there is much to be discovered, especially in a benevolent vintage as 2022.
Cellar Favorite: 2022 Kei Shiogai Bourgogne Blanc
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jul 2024
A couple of years ago, I ordered the maiden Kei Shiogai 2020 Bourgogne Blanc En Pellans from a restaurant list, as members of the fourth estate are persona non grata at the winery in Beaune. I was interested. Sadly, the bottle left me indifferent. When dining in Chablis recently, I decided to try another bottle.
A Burgundy Intermezzo
featured, France: Burgundy
, Jul 2024
This brief Burgundy report looks at new releases from an established producer, Domaine Leflaive, a brand new grower, Arnaud Boué and a welcome return for the Chassagne-Montrachets of Domaine Michel Niellon, with an early look at their 2023s.