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A Burgundy Intermezzo
featured, France: Burgundy
, Jul 2024
This brief Burgundy report looks at new releases from an established producer, Domaine Leflaive, a brand new grower, Arnaud Boué and a welcome return for the Chassagne-Montrachets of Domaine Michel Niellon, with an early look at their 2023s.
Cellar Favorite: 2015 Envínate Lousas Parcela Camiño Novo
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Jul 2024
During the Burgfest tasting, we tend to diversify our drinking habits at dinners as members proffer bottles from their cellars. One of the best was the 2015 Lousas Parcela Camiño Novo from Envínate, which translates as “wine yourself”.
Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites
featured, France: Burgundy
, Jul 2024
There is justifiable handwringing about Burgundy losing its typicité because of warmer growing seasons. Is that being borne out in the wines? In the first of two blind tastings at the annual Burgfest, I tasted over 200 whites from the 2020 vintage and found reasons to be cheerful.
Cellar Favorite: 1986 Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru and 1989 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Jul 2024
In the fledgling days of my wine career, long before I put pen to paper, I used to visit a reputable merchant in deepest Suffolk. These were thoroughly enjoyable away days from the office. We would often repair to a local fish restaurant to imbibe the rest of the afternoon away, skivers that we were. I vividly recall one occasion when the merchant regaled a bottle drunk recently. He rhapsodized that wine so much that his words have always stayed with me. Unfortunately, even then, 20-plus years ago, this wine was so unfathomably rare that the chances of even finding a bottle, let alone drinking one, were remote. Of course, back then, I had not counted on munificent wine friends…
Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Jun 2024
Every year, I round up all the stray bottles of Burgundy and publish them in a single article. This year’s edition is the customary eclectic array of wines stretching back over decades, from feted recent vintages to others best forgotten, from legendary producers to “Who?”
It’s All in the Name: Domaine Pierre Vincent
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Jun 2024
Pierre Vincent is one of the most talented winemakers working in Burgundy. After producing a raft of great wines at Domaine de la Vougeraie and then Domaine Leflaive, Vincent is about to embark upon a new chapter in his career, the 2023s representing the maiden vintage of wines under his own name.
Cellar Favorite: 1924 Bouchard Père & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, June 2024
Since the vintage ends with the right digit, I was tempted to add this wine to my Centuries Of… article. Frankly, this bottle was so amazing, defied logic to such a degree, and was so astounding that it had to be placed on its own pedestal, which is this Cellar Favorite. I did not choose it because readers can just go out and procure a bottle; instead, this is a pertinent reminder of wine’s longevity and that consumers don’t necessarily need to forage for blue chip growers or even the most esteemed vineyards. Perhaps the message of this particular Cellar Favorite is to keep an open mind.
A Century of…Fours
France: Bordeaux, featured, South Africa, France: Burgundy
, Jun 2024
Century of Fours examines vintages ending in four and adds historical context via a parallel timeline of the FA Cup Finals from 1904 to 2014. It is two journeys through time for the price of one.
Cellar Favorite: 1947 Château Gilette Doux
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, May 2024
Château Gilette, located in the village of Preignac, is an unorthodox Sauternes estate that has furrowed its path for decades, eschewing the use of oak barrels to undertake extended élevages in concrete vats that can last up to 20 years. I’ve been lucky to experience a couple of extensive verticals over my career and composed a detailed standalone piece in my Wine-Journal days. My last visit was ten years ago, so I’m overdue a return.
Oldies But Goldies: Bouchard Père 1892-2012
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2024
Bouchard Père & Fils own one of the deepest Burgundy libraries of vintages back to the 19th century. This article recounts last November’s dinner when bottles with years ending in two stretching back through decades were opened.