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The Many Riojas of Rioja: A Tale of Forking Paths
Spain, featured
Apr 2024
,Rioja finds itself at a crossroads. Like many a great story, Rioja is being challenged by small and mid-size producers over its identity. A dynamic and fascinating scenario is unfolding as a result, reflected in the almost 800 bottles that make up this report. Certain producers' enthusiasm and stylistic exploration are inspiring amidst a general decline in sales, defining a wine landscape as diverse as it is attractive. Rioja is currently an adventure of contrasts and discoveries.
The Whites of Rueda Get Serious
Spain, featured
Feb 2024
,A region famous for simple, fruity whites that are ideal for casual summer drinking, Rueda is increasingly producing wines of greater depth and sophistication. The effort put in by producers is beginning to pay off, although it is still early days. In this report, I review some of the bottlings that offer a glimpse into that promising future.
Cellar Favorite: 1969 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Unico
Spain, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
Jan 2024
,Unico is Spain’s most iconic and historical wine. You don’t need me to tell you that. Though Unico has been bottled for many decades, the consensus is that the 1960s is the decade during which its reputation was really consolidated through a string of outstanding vintages bookended by the brilliant 1962 and 1970.
Reds From Toro: Old Vines and New Knowhow
Spain, featured
Dec 2023
,Renowned for producing wines with good structure and energy since medieval times, Toro is a small but proud DO located in Castilla y León that focuses mainly on reds. With vines that date back to pre-phylloxera times and soils that temper the region’s sunny climate, several of the labels found in Toro offer breathtaking energy and flavor.
Ribera del Duero: A Shifting Frontier for Spanish Wine
Spain, featured
Nov 2023
,Forty years after its official inception, the Ribera del Duero DO is experiencing a period of change, with a wide range of new wines and styles that run the gamut from traditional to strikingly forward-thinking. Whether its producers are focused on expressing the identity of a region or looking to push the boundaries of what can be done with premium red wines in the higher areas of Castilla y León, the DO offers a diverse range of reds along with a handful of whites whose character is defining the area’s transition from the past into the present.
A Kaleidoscope of Colors: New Rosé Releases
Italy, Austria, Spain, France, featured
May 2023
,Rosé has never been as exciting as it is today. This year's Rosé coverage takes an in-depth look at the wines of Italy, France, Spain, the United States and Austria. Recent tastings unveil a stunning array of regional styles and flavors. Watch this space as we add more selections from our team of editors in the coming weeks.
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Torres Gran Coronas Reserva
Spain, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
Apr 2023
,A Spanish rarity, the 1971 Gran Coronas Reserva from Torres was one of several splendid bottles proffered at a recent dinner The Harwood Arms.
Álvaro Palacios and Descendientes de J. Palacios - New Releases
Spain, featured
Apr 2023
,Álvaro Palacios is rightly regarded as one of Spain’s foremost winemakers, credited with putting Priorat back on the map. This brief piece focuses on the 2022 releases from Álvaro Palacios and Descendientes de J. Palacios.
Atlantic Spain: It’s Always About the Weather…
Spain, featured
Jun 2021
,Stretching from Galicia in the far northwest and along the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Biscay to the Basque Country, Atlantic Spain is the country’s coolest winegrowing region. Mostly indigenous varieties that are grown virtually nowhere else in Spain are the rule. The almost universally ocean-influenced climate and the intrinsic character of those local grapes define vibrant wines that are increasingly capturing the attention of wine lovers across the globe.
Rioja: The Past Is Always Present
Spain, featured
Apr 2021
,Change comes slowly in Rioja. Many of the winemaking practices that were in place when the region was established in the third quarter of the 19th century are widely used today. Grapes are pressed traditionally and most of the best wines are aged, sometimes for many years, in oak barrels of various sizes, with a preference towards American oak. Many winemakers see oxidation during aging as an asset, not a flaw, that when done correctly, brings the unique perfume, complex flavors and supple texture that make serious Rioja among the world’s greatest wines.