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Vinous Table: Casa Julián, Tolosa, Spain
Vinous Table, Spain
, May 2025
The Basque region is a foodie’s paradise, a cradle for some of the finest fish, meat and dairy in the world. Casa Julián is a bona fide institution, and will certainly be one of my top meals of 2025.
Rías Baixas & Ribeiro: The Beating Heart of White Wine in Galicia
featured, Spain
, Mar 2025
Located in Northwest Spain, Galicia is home to wines with an Atlantic soul. Among the region’s white wine DOs, Rías Baixas and Ribeiro present contrasting yet equally intriguing styles. From Albariño to Treixadura, the 300 wines reviewed in this report offer a journey through Galicia's diverse terroirs.
The Vivacious Reds of Ribeira Sacra and El Bierzo
featured, Spain
, Feb 2025
Ribeira Sacra and Bierzo share a climate and dominant red grape variety, and yet they produce two very different versions of Mencía. In this report, I survey over 300 wines to provide a comprehensive overview of the wine country that spans the mountains between Galicia and León.
From Revolution to Evolution: The Garnatxas and Cariñenas of Priorat & Montsant
featured, Spain
, Nov 2024
Priorat and Montsant are the two main red-wine-producing DOs in Catalunya, but they are quite different from one another. In the 1990s, Priorat enjoyed a resurgence that led to a golden era before its regional style began to shift, while Montsant was only formally established in 2002. I visited the two regions in the spring of 2024, thoroughly touring most of the towns and vineyards and tasting a range of wines that reflect the past, present and future of an area of great character.
The Rambunctious Catalan Mediterranean and Beyond
featured, Spain
, Sep 2024
Within a surface area that only accounts for 6% of Spain, Catalonia bottles a wide range of Mediterranean and continental wines in two distinct styles. White and sparkling wines rule the roost on the coast–which is the main focus of this report–where the ethereal Xarel·lo fills glasses with sun and energy. In a land rich in native varieties, this dispatch takes readers on a tour of Mediterranean flavors and attempts to offer a lucid guide to the tangled mess of categories and classifications that hold sway in the region.
Rosé New Releases: All Over the Map
featured, Spain, Italy, Austria, United States: California, France
, May 2024
Rosé remains in full swing. Ever the popular quaff as the weather warms and the dog days of summer approach, there’s more pink wine on store shelves than ever. However, new releases, mostly from the 2023 vintage, are a bit more variable than usual.
The Many Riojas of Rioja: A Tale of Forking Paths
featured, Spain
, Apr 2024
Rioja finds itself at a crossroads. Like many a great story, Rioja is being challenged by small and mid-size producers over its identity. A dynamic and fascinating scenario is unfolding as a result, reflected in the almost 800 bottles that make up this report. Certain producers' enthusiasm and stylistic exploration are inspiring amidst a general decline in sales, defining a wine landscape as diverse as it is attractive. Rioja is currently an adventure of contrasts and discoveries.
The Whites of Rueda Get Serious
featured, Spain
, Feb 2024
A region famous for simple, fruity whites that are ideal for casual summer drinking, Rueda is increasingly producing wines of greater depth and sophistication. The effort put in by producers is beginning to pay off, although it is still early days. In this report, I review some of the bottlings that offer a glimpse into that promising future.
Cellar Favorite: 1969 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Unico
Spain, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2024
Unico is Spain’s most iconic and historical wine. You don’t need me to tell you that. Though Unico has been bottled for many decades, the consensus is that the 1960s is the decade during which its reputation was really consolidated through a string of outstanding vintages bookended by the brilliant 1962 and 1970.
Reds From Toro: Old Vines and New Knowhow
featured, Spain
, Dec 2023
Renowned for producing wines with good structure and energy since medieval times, Toro is a small but proud DO located in Castilla y León that focuses mainly on reds. With vines that date back to pre-phylloxera times and soils that temper the region’s sunny climate, several of the labels found in Toro offer breathtaking energy and flavor.