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Cellar Favorite: 1966 Trotanoy
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Oct 2025
The 1966 Trotanoy comes from a golden era for this Pomerol estate and epitomizes everything great about mature Pomerol
Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023
France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Sep 2025
To mark 100 years since the Lurton family bought Brane-Cantenac, Henri Lurton organised a vertical tasting that demonstrated how this Margaux wine has improved so dramatically during his reign. A few gems then showed that his ancestors also had a magic touch when it came to turning grapes into wine.
A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022
France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Sep 2025
This year, Château Lafleur celebrates four decades of ownership by the Guinaudeau family. To mark the occasion, a weekend in Austria witnessed a unique vertical of every vintage from 1985 to 2022, all poured from magnum. How did this Pomerol-turned-Vin de France perform?
Cellar Favorite: 2000 Calon-Ségur
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Sep 2025
The 2000 Calon-Ségur epitomizes everything I love about Bordeaux, specifically how magnificently the wines develop over time.
Cellar Favorite: 1924, 1929 & 1955 Meyney
France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Aug 2025
Last primeur, which already seems like ages ago, Château Meyney organised a fascinating lunch recreating a historic dinner served in 1928. Three vintages of Meyney older than any I had encountered previously were poured blind.
A Century of...Fives
France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jun 2025
My annual "Century of..." article revisits vintages on their decennial anniversaries. This year, we dive into Fives.
Cellar Favorite: 1990 Hennebelle
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jun 2025
The 1990 Hennebelle is a pertinent reminder of the glories of Bordeaux, how a modest quarter-century-old Haut-Médoc could deliver such pleasure.
Bordeaux: The Crisis Laid Bare
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jun 2025
Bordeaux is facing its biggest crisis since the 1930s. After speaking candidly to people in and outside of Bordeaux, I felt a duty to depict the sheer scale of the calamity the Bordeaux wine industry is up against.
Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten
France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jun 2025
The 2015 vintage in Bordeaux was warmly received on release, but 2016 stole the limelight just 12 months later. How is the vintage faring now that the wines have reached age ten? Blindfolds on.
The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem
France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, May 2025
I have tasted a great deal of mature Bordeaux wine, including Sauternes, but I have not yet achieved the magic number of 100 different vintages from a single estate. I mentioned my goal to Lorenzo Pasquini, Yquem’s head winemaker, when visiting in April, and he promised to do his best to help, cracking open a selection of mainly off-vintages that filled some of the gaps.