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Cellar Favorite: 1945 Troplong Mondot
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
Nov 2024
,Best vintage of the 20th century? 1945. Few will argue against that. A one-off historical nexus of victory against evil with victory in the vineyard.
Cellar Favorite: 1924 Gruaud Larose
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
Oct 2024
,A rare century-old bottle of 1924 Gruaud Larose was a late addition to a mouth-watering line-up of fermented grape juice poured at Ming Court restaurant on my final night in Hong Kong.
The Misunderstood Margaux: Marquis de Terme 1947-2021
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
Oct 2024
,Marquis de Terme is a Margaux château that flies under the radar. Estate director Ludovic David offered me a rare insight into the property and presented a vertical of over 20 vintages back to the postwar period.
Cellar Favorite: 1985 Cheval Blanc
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
Sep 2024
,It has been several years since I last tasted the 1985 Cheval Blanc. When this was poured, a guest enquired whether I liked it, to which I replied: “It’s Cheval Blanc…It’s 1985…Of course!”
Cellar Favorite: 1961 & 2012 Mouton-Rothschild
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
Aug 2024
,Last year, I attended the unveiling of the new artist label at Mouton-Rothschild. This was the first time it was held at the First Growth in Pauillac. Once the artist, Chiharu Shiota, had received her round of applause for her 2021 ‘balloon’ label, guests gathered for dinner featuring two vintages.
Cellar Favorite: 1928-1998 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
Aug 2024
,When visiting this Pauillac Second Growth earlier this year, Nicolas Glumineau poured several vintages blind. The theme turned out to be years ending in eight, though when he invited me to choose another, I headed for one of the more disparaged of the 20th century, not without sound reason…
Cellar Favorite: 1949 and 1959 Pape Clément
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
Aug 2024
,Like many Bordeaux estates, Pape Clément suffered during the 1930s and the war. Under owner Paul Montagne, it was not until the 1950s that renovation was completed and the wines could reach their potential. Might that explain why the 1959 Pape Clément outshone the 1949 when served at a Bordeaux-themed dinner in Hong Kong last September? Both bottles came from the same cellar.
Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
Jul 2024
,An unrepeatable 57-vintage vertical of Vieux Château Certan marking the Thienponts’ century of ownership deserved an article of equal ambition. Bringing to life those from the past and present who made this remarkable event possible, this is a story as much about people as it is about a remarkable wine.
The Minnow: Sigalas Rabaud 1975-2019
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
Jul 2024
,Continuing my coverage of Sauternes, big and small, this look at Sigalas Rabaud falls into the latter category as one of the appellation’s smallest First Growths. This vertical, held at the property, covers vintages from 1975 to 2019.
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Latour & 1971 Les Forts de Latour
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
Jul 2024
,Wine is often a moving target. The greatest tend to be shape-shifters in the glass. Just when you think you’ve got a wine pinned down, it mutates into something different, and you end up crossing out words in your carefully written note. It’s like a child toying with you, playing peek-a-boo. Now you see me…now you don’t.