Cellar Favorite: 2016 & 2008 de Millery

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MAY 11, 2026

Thierry Manoncourt, the late owner of Figeac, purchased Château de Millery in 1942 while he was in the French Army. The tiny vineyard in Saint-Émilion's Saint-Christophe-des-Bardes sector spans less than one hectare and is planted to 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. For decades, Millery remained a small family property, its wine destined mostly for home consumption, rather than a true commercial venture. In recent years, the Figeac technical team, led by General Manager Frédéric Faye, Technical Director Romain Jean-Pierre and Consulting Winemaker Thomas Duclos, has raised the bar considerably. These two vintages are good examples of that transformation. Production is about 4,000 bottles per year, most of which disappear very quickly among those in the know.

The 2016 de Millery is every bit as impressive as it was the first time I tasted it nearly ten years ago. I admit, I always have some trepidation approaching wines I have rated highly in the past that did not have much of a track record at the time, as was the case with de Millery. What if the wine is not as good as I remembered? What if I overrated it? Thankfully, those concerns disappear immediately. The 2016 is everything I had hoped for—an understated, refined Saint-Émilion that is more class than power. Hints of lavender, graphite, dried herbs, leather and spice weave through a core of blue/purplish-hued fruits. What a gorgeous and complete wine this is. 96/Drink: 2026-2046.

The 2008 de Millery is a wine I had not tasted before. It is quite good, although it’s fraying a bit at the edges. I also suspect the Manoncourt family was not giving de Millery the same attention and care they do today. All things considered, the 2008 has held up well, but I would not push my luck on aging this too much further. Dark-toned fruit, leather, gravel, incense and spice all show the signs of age, as do tannins that aren't as polished as what readers will find in more recent releases. 92/Drink: 2026-2033.

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