2014 Domaine Denis Mortet Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru


The 2014 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, which is part of a métayage agreement like the Echézeaux here, was a surprise addition to dinner in Bordeaux last March. Delightful from start to finish, it is blessed with a vivid, lively bouquet that leaps from the glass, scents of Morello cherry and wild strawberry, raspberry and an underlying mineralité. With time in the glass, subtle floral, peony and iris aromas emerge, albeit not as pronounced as other Bonnes-Mares. The way this unfolds is delectable. The palate is taut and fresh, beautifully framed, stylish and pure, with a welcome touch of piquancy towards the finish. Arnaud Mortet fashioned an irresistible and complex Bonnes-Mares in 2014. Although I should be telling you to cellar it for another few years, I would not begrudge anyone cracking open a bottle now. 95/Drink 2022-2048.

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