1961 & 2012 Mouton-Rothschild

BY NEAL MARTIN | AUGUST 26, 2024

Last year, I attended the unveiling of the new artist label at Mouton-Rothschild. This was the first time it was held at the First Growth in Pauillac. Once the artist, Chiharu Shiota, had received her round of applause for her 2021 ‘balloon’ label, guests gathered for dinner featuring two vintages.

The 1961 Mouton-Rothschild is a legendary vintage. I encountered this twice before, though it is less frequently seen than other First Growths. Of course, much to Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s indignation, back then, Mouton-Rothschild was still a Second Growth. Their 1961 is slightly shaded by the venerated Latour or even their own 1945 Mouton-Rothschild – it doesn’t have the stellar reputation of those. That should take nothing from what I consider one of the standouts of that vintage. It was a pleasure to taste a bottle that had never moved from the cellar until this evening. The 1961 remains a deep color with remarkably little aging on the rim. The bouquet is a kaleidoscope of aromas: black fruit, pencil shavings, cigar humidor and then after an hour, more exotic aromas, shades of blue fruit and crushed violet join the chorus line. Yet, at no point could this wine come from anywhere else except Pauillac. Though I’ve never drunk them side-by-side, the palate has exquisite balance and possesses as much depth as the Latour. Certainly, there is more concentration and complexity than the 1961 Lafite-Rothschild, adorned as it is with enthralling purity of fruit tinged with wild mint towards its peacock’s tail finish. Magnificent! 98/Drink 2024-2050.

Another vintage was poured alongside, one perhaps easier to find, from the era when Philippe Dhalluin was head winemaker. The 2012 Mouton-Rothschild is now drinking beautifully. Black and blue fruit on the nose, with touches of potpourri and graphite, this certainly had no intention of being overshadowed by the 1961. Still youthful, the aromatics suggest another three or four years in bottle will do it no harm. Likewise, the palate remains youthful though less “glossy” than previous examples as it slowly matures. Wonderful delineation and delivering a crescendo of flavors towards the finish, this is a great modern Mouton-Rothschild that, compared to more lauded vintages, could represent an astute acquisition. 95/Drink 2028-2050.

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