2005 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru


At an evening meal in Tokyo, I had the pleasure of tasting the excellent 2005 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru from Jean-Marc Pillot. This was poured from magnum. Apparently, Pillot produced a minuscule number of these large formats since this comes from a parcel of old vines that were subsequently replanted. Also, perusing Tanzer’s original note, I was interested to learn that due to nitrogen deficiency in the vines that year, alcoholic fermentations were strung out until the following May.

After 18 years, the 2005 has a burnished straw color. The bouquet is striking in intensity. It’s a white Burgundy with plenty of horsepower, including dried honey, grilled hazelnut, lanolin and a touch of lemon thyme scents. There is no sense of heat, yet the warmth of that summer is communicated. The palate has a slightly viscous texture and immense depth matched by sufficient acidity to keep this Les Verges on its toes. After 30 to 40 minutes, it coheres marvelously. The 2005 is a white Burgundy at the peak of its powers, yet with plenty left in the tank. 93/Drink 2023-2040.

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