Cellar Favorite: 1962 La Gaffelière

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 19, 2026

On my to-do list is a vertical of this Saint-Émilion estate located just outside the village. The château is situated on the main route into the centre, although its idyllic gardens and maison are hidden away, with the tasting room located on the opposite side of the road. Co-proprietor Alexandre Malet-Roquefort has run the estate for many years and has taken the wines to a higher level over the last decade. My experience with older vintages is few and far between, notwithstanding that those from the 1970s and 1980s do not have a great reputation. A 1982 I encountered last year was not terrible, though neither did it befit the benevolent vintage. However, I have heard others wax lyrical about bottles of La Gaffelière from the 1950s and 1960s. I was dining alone at Maison de Colombier in Beaune when a group of friends invited me to join them. They poured this Bordeaux and I was absolutely smitten…

The 1962 La Gaffelière was a château-bottled example, labelled in its appended name of “Gaffelière Naude”. My first reaction was “wow.” The 1962 has a scintillating, ripe and sensual bouquet with lavish black plummy fruit, blueberry and cassis, undimmed by age. The palate has amazing precocity given its antiquity, slightly lower in acidity than expected. It exudes plush tannins that lend a velvety texture, wonderful balance and a pure, almost Margaux-like finish that is divine. This is a fabulous wine from La Gaffelière's golden period. 96/Drink 2026-2040

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