1971, 2001 & 2011 Château de Beauregard Pouilly-Fuissé Vers Cras


No Burrier, no Premier Cru! Frédéric Burrier, the congenial proprietor of Château de Beauregard in the village of Fuissé, was the driving force that, after a decade of relentless campaigning, convinced the INAO that 22 vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé merited promotion to Premier Cru status, commencing with the 2020 vintage. Readers can look forward to more detail on its first intake in a forthcoming report. In the meantime, Burrier was a special guest at the “Burgfest” group’s annual wild boar dinner in Savigny-lès-Beaune. He brought three mature vintages from one of those promoted vineyards, Vers Cras, that vindicated why they deserve Premier Cru status, each demonstrating that the finest Mâconnais wines can mature in bottle as well as their equivalents in the Côte d’Or. These were all poured from magnum.

The 1971 Pouilly-Fuissé Vers Cras is still quite youthful looking with green tints in the glass. It has an engaging, slightly petrol-like bouquet, hints of white truffle develop with time, something almost Germanic here, perhaps echoes of a mature Nahe? The palate is commendably fresh given it is now half-a-century old, slightly honeyed in texture with that petrol tincture continuing on from the nose with Williams pear and a touch of gooseberry. Quite powerful, it seems to gain in stature with light eucalyptus scents, before it stumbles and falls apart after 30 minutes in the glass. Very fine, but I would not decant this. 90/Drink 2022-2028.

The 2001 Pouilly-Fuissé Vers Cras is outstanding. Fantastic delineation and poise, this makes an immediate impression on the nose with hints of grilled almond mingling with lemon verbena. Though I am not inclined to compare with the Côte d'Or, it does remind me of a fine Puligny-Montrachet on the nose with a very subtle reduction. The palate is beautifully balanced with a steely line of acidity, linear yet bursting with energy. Very pure and energetic with a modicum of salinity towards the finish, this is Pouilly-Fuissé at its best. 93/Drink 2022-2038.

The 2011 Pouilly-Fuissé Vers Cras is drinking well. It has wonderful delineation and vibrancy on the nose, more mineral-driven than the accompanying 1971 with hints of white mushroom and white truffle. The palate is youthful, supple and tensile, touches of orange pith and yellow plum emerging towards the harmonious finish. At 21-years of age, this Pouilly-Fuissé is à point. 90/Drink 2022-2035.

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