Cellar Favorite: 1967 Certan de May

BY NEAL MARTIN | NOVEMBER 24, 2025

Travelling back in time, Bordeaux is full of lesser-known pockets of excellence—often dismissed vintages where one or two appellations bucked the trend. Nineteen sixty-seven is one of those. It’s a rum vintage on the Left Bank, yet Sauternes and Pomerol produced a clutch of splendid wines that often leave you smiling. The 1967 Certan de May was opened at a recent lunch in Bouilland in Burgundy with Russell Hone, husband of the late Becky Wasserman, the much-missed importer who did so much to promote the wines of Burgundy’s grower domaines in their early days.

Showing a little bricking on the rim, the 1967 Certan de May admittedly carries a bit of volatility on the nose, yet there is plenty of freshness, with enticing scents of black plums, menthol and truffle. The palate conveys a kind of decayed opulence, a Pomerol weathered by time so that you ultimately end up with a core of sweetness that has probably been there since birth. Smooth in texture, the 1967 has disarming precocity, simple but in no way plain. The finish is mellow, with hints of licorice tingling on the aftertaste. All the joys of mature Pomerol are here, and what it lacks in sophistication is compensated by vigour and charm. 91/Drink 2025-2035.

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