1928-1998 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

BY NEAL MARTIN | AUGUST 12, 2024

When visiting this Pauillac Second Growth earlier this year, Nicolas Glumineau poured several vintages blind. The theme turned out to be years ending in eight, though when he invited me to choose another, I headed for one of the more disparaged of the 20th century, not without sound reason…

The 1998 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande shows better than expected. This is a vintage that I have not encountered for four or five years. The palate remains fragrant with black fruit, melted tar and a light marine influence that seems to have usurped the cedar aromas. It's just a little dry on the entry, but it reveals lovely red and black fruit, firmly structured with a slightly spicier finish than I recall. I would drink bottles over the next decade. 90/Drink 2024-2034. The 1988 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is another vintage I had not tasted for a few years. I have recently encountered magnums of 1988 Pichon-Baron, so I was intrigued to see how they compared. The Pichon-Longueville has a classic bouquet with freshly rolled tobacco, brine and sufficient black fruit that renders the aromatics austere in the best way possible. The palate is medium-bodied and far more elegant than previous bottles, autumnal, yet beautifully balanced with cedar and leather notes, becoming a little fungal towards the short yet charming finish. This is drinking perfectly right now. 92/Drink 2024-2032.

The 1978 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has long been my favorite vintage from that decade, and it shaded the 1988 and 1998. After 46 years, the aromatics have retained amazing freshness and vitality, leaning more towards red fruit mixed with a light marine influence, cedar and wild mint. The palate is medium-bodied with nigh perfect balance. It is not the most complex Pauillac that you will ever drink, but this Pauillac over-delivers in terms of freshness. It exerts a gentle grip, the black fruit infused with oyster shell, a judicious sprinkling of black pepper on the harmonious finish. This is classic “old school” claret at its best. 94/Drink 2024-2036. The 1951 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was a curveball chosen by yours truly because both bottles of neighboring Latour 1951 had shown so well. Was that just a freak in this awful growing season? Maybe. The nose is timeworn and decayed, with dusty attic and autumn bonfire notes. There’s clearly a bit of rot in the mix. The palate is light but better than the aromatics, with tart red fruit and a bitter, rather scrawny finish. 79/Drink 2024-2024.

Finally, we have the 1928 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, a vintage I have tasted twice. Of my three encounters, this is easily the best. It has an immense bouquet with vestiges of red fruit, cedar and blood orange. Sandalwood hints emerge with time. It shows incredible vitality, considering its age. The palate is citrus-fresh on the entry with filigree tannins, almost Burgundian in style with a finish that reminds me of Lafite-Rothschild from this pre-war era. It just tingles on the tongue after it has departed. Bottles with sound provenance will still give pleasure. 95/2024-2024.

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