2007 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru 

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 25, 2021

One of the most memorable visits during my 2019 Burgundy marathon was with Olivier Lamy in Saint-Aubin. The tasting was held just outside the barrel cellar. Lamy had contracted COVID a few days earlier, asymptomatic thankfully, and though past the infection period, he felt that tasting al fresco would put tasters’ minds at ease. The only problem was that it was bitterly cold and dark. Eventually I requested to move back inside in order to regain blood circulation in the fingers. This being the final tasting of the day, Lamy opened several examples of the 2017 and 2018 vintages that readers can peruse in the Côte de Beaune part of the December’s Burgundy report. I earmarked the two most mature bottles for this Cellar Favorite.

First comes a splendid 2007 Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru. Fully mature on the nose, it delivers scents of wild mint and Seville orange marmalade; then with further aeration, intriguing aromas of Granny Smith apples mixed with background hints of charred wood. The palate demonstrates very fine delineation, a beautifully poised En Remilly with a penetrating line of acidity that renders it surprisingly youthful on the nose. This classy En Remilly is à point, but clearly it has the legs to last several more years. 93/Drink 2021-2030. The oldest bottle poured by Olivier Lamy was the 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots. It offers mature aromas of dried honey mingling with apple peelings and light moorland/peaty note. It does not possess the same delineation as the 2007 En Remilly. Ripe on the palate, it has a satisfying acidic spine that complements its slightly creamy texture. Compared to Lamy’s recent vintages, the oak is not quite as well integrated, thus denying it the same precision. It is not a bad mature Puligny-Montrachet by any means, though maybe given the growing season, I expected more. 89/Drink 2021-2025.