Bistrot du Bord de L’Eau

Hostellerie de Levernois

Rue du Golf

F-21200 Levernois

Tél. +33 3 80 24 73 58

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JANUARY 19, 2018

Food:

Les Œufs Façon Meurette au Chardonnay/Soft-boiled eggs with bacon in a Chardonnay sauce

Le Jambon Persillé, Crostini de Pain d’Epices et Moutarde à l’Ancienne/Ham Terrine with Parsley and mustard garlic, gingerbread toast

Le Risotto de Potiron et Parmesan/Pumpkin Risotto with Parmesan

La Dame de Saumon Grille et Pommes Paille, sauce Hollandaise/Grilled salmon, potatoes, Hollandaise sauce

Wine:

2010 Domaine Hubert Lignier Morey-St-Denis Les Chaffots 1er Cru

93

Bistrot du Bord de L’Eau is one of my favorite spots in Burgundy. The warm, welcoming room, hearty food and fabulous wine list make for a perfect place to enjoy a leisurely lunch or dinner.

The Bistrot’s cozy dining room is warm and welcoming 

Scents from the wood-fired hearth waft out of the room as we enter Bistrot du Bord de L’Eau searching for an escape from a dreary, cold December day in Burgundy. There are many things I adore about Burgundy. Fall weather is not one of them. The Bistrot is located in the Hostellerie de Levernois, an oasis of tranquility just outside of Beaune. The stunning Hostellerie, a Relais and Château property, also includes a more formal dining room, but I prefer the simplicity of the Bistrot. Among their many virtues, both restaurants are open on Sundays, which is very rare in Burgundy, especially at this level. 

Soft-boiled eggs with bacon in a Chardonnay sauce

The menu is very simple and consists of a few choices for each course, including many of the classics of the Burgundian kitchen, including Œufs Meurette and Jambon Persillé. The wine list in the back of the menu is small, but well chosen. Diners can also order from the formal restaurant’s wine list, which I highly recommend, as it is full of eye-popping, tempting delights. Service is top-notch.

Ham Terrine with Parsley and mustard garlic, gingerbread toast

My guest and I opted to sample a number of different dishes, including the aforementioned Œufs Meurette and Jambon Persillé, both of which were terrific. My salmon main course was good, but not anything special. The pumpkin risotto, on the other hand, was spectacular. I would never order risotto in France, but the Bistrot’s rendition was spot on. Moreover, it was the perfect antidote for the damp, bone-chilling weather.

Pumpkin Risotto with Parmesan

To drink, we chose Lignier’s 2010 Morey-St-Denis Les Chaffots. Lignier is one of my favorite producers for a number of reasons. The wines have a sense of classicism I find especially appealing, while prices remain relatively reasonable within the present-day standards of Burgundy. Just starting to show the first signs of aromatic nuance, the Chaffots was precise, linear and beautifully delineated. In other words: classic Morey. I imagine well-stored bottles will drink well for another 20 years. I have enjoyed Lignier village wines at age twenty that have matured spectacularly well. And, of course, in the best vintages, the wines are absolutely sublime. After a period of some ups and downs that I detailed in my recent vertical of the flagship Clos de la Roche, Lignier is once again at the top of their game.

Quite frankly, it was tough to leave the cocoon of the Bistrot, but a large afternoon tasting awaited. This delicious, invigorating lunch was the perfect break in an otherwise packed schedule.