Angler

132 The Embarcadero

San Francisco, CA 94105

+1 415 872 9442

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | FEBRUARY 23, 2024

The Food:

Bluefin Tuna with Sanbaizu Jelly & Shiso

Scallop Crudo, Yuzu & Fig Leaf

Embered Oysters with Smoke Chili Butter

Blistered Broccolini, Pistachio Bagna Cauda

Whole Sea Bream with Vermouth Butter

Soft Serve Sundae

The Wines:

Bluefin Tuna with Sanbaizu Jelly & Shiso

Angler is the sister restaurant to Saison and one of my favorite places in San Francisco. It opened Embarcadero District in 2018 and is a sort of alter ego to the ultra high-end Saison, offering dishes with similar inspirations, but in a less formal setting. The focus is on fish and seafood. As at Saison, a large open fire is the heart and soul of Angler. COVID-19 disrupted what were once regular visits. This was my first time back in several years. Perhaps for that reason, I especially enjoyed this dinner. 

Scallop Crudo, Yuzu & Fig Leaf

A challenge any frequent traveler to California wine country has is finding a restaurant to have a good, real dinner ibefore hopping on a red-eye back to the East Coast. Angler is my favorite stop. With some preparation and careful scheduling, dinner on the way to SFO is easy to do. It’s also a far better option than anything at the airport. One word of advice: If parking in a garage, check hours of operation. I once nearly missed a late-night flight because I arrived to pick up my car at the last possible minute.

Embered Oysters with Smoke Chili Butter

The dining room was bustling when we arrived for our seats at the bar. We started with the bluefin tuna appetizer, which was delicious. It was served with a crispy shiso wafer and a cool, refreshing jelly of sanbaizu, the traditional Japanese, rice vineyard, sugar and soy sauce dressing. The scallop crudo was equally divine, with the yuzu and fig leaf beautifully playing off the sweetness of the scallops. Angler’s embered oysters were recommended by the couple sitting next to us and did not disappoint. Although we were drinking Champagne and white Burgundy, this is a dish that could have also worked well with red wine.

Whole Sea Bream with Vermouth Butter

A whole sea bream cooked on the open fire and served with Vermouth butter was the perfect dish to share. It was delicious. There is something about a pristine fish cooked on the grill that just can’t be beat. Blistered broccolini made for a fine accompaniment. 

To say Angler's wine list is extensive would be a massive understatement. Co-Founder/Beverage Director Mark Bright and his team have put together a fabulous list. The Champagne section alone would take considerable time to study in detail. I was tempted by many German wines, but that is not my area of expertise. Perhaps I will be more adventurous next time. Prices are, in many cases, exceptionally fair for restaurants in the United States. I happened to see one wine that was almost half of what I had seen on a Napa Valley wine list just a few days prior!

Cédric Bouchard’s 2021 Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine is even more powerful than I recall from the last time I tasted it, about three months prior. Low yields resulted in an especially rich Champagne. In 2021, the Val Vilaine is very much a wine for the dinner table. As much as I enjoyed tasting the 2021 before dinner, it is far from an aperitif Champagne. I was delighted to find Thibaud Clerget’s Meursault Les Chevalières on the list, as it is one of my favorite white Burgundies that remains affordable. The 2020 does not disappoint. It’s just too young. Bright, crisp and minerally, it is a fine accompaniment to our dinner. I especially admire its chiseled energy and overall vibrancy. The inquisitive wine lover will surely find much to explore on this list. My only regret was that I had a flight to catch.

We had just enough time for dessert. The soft serve sundae, generously topped with caramel sauce and pieces of chocolate, is very much in the style of similar desserts at Saison, which is to say pretty strong on sweet, milky flavors. We devoured it.

Soft Serve Sundae

Angler offers a fabulous menu of exceptional food served in a casual environment that in no way sacrifices fine service. Everything was just as great as I remembered. I am already looking forward to going back.

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