Le Tout-Paris

Cheval Blanc Paris

8 Quai du Louvre

75001 Paris, France

Tel. +33 (0) 1 79 35 50 22

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | AUGUST 8, 2025

The Food:

Oyster; Cucumber and Lemongrass Foam

Foie Gras and Truffled Macaroni Memories with Artichoke

In the Spirit of a Flammekueche with Black Truffle

Morels, Lobster, White Bass, Lobster-Wild Garlic Broth

Veal Rack for Two; Mashed Potatoes with Wild Garlic

Cheese Selection

Profiterole Éclair; Tahitian Vanilla, Madagascar Ice Cream, Chocolate Sauce

The Wines:

Le Tout-Paris is one of the four restaurants inside the Cheval Blanc hotel. With its colorful decor and stunning views of the Seine, Eiffel Tower and other landmarks, Le Tout-Paris is an ideal spot for enjoying the best Paris has to offer in a refined setting. This recent dinner with my daughter was one of the highlights of the week we spent exploring the city’s many cultural and culinary delights. Le Tout-Paris is open from early in the morning until late at night, seven days a week, making it a very useful address for Vinous readers spending time in the City of Lights.

Oyster; Cucumber and Lemongrass Foam.

The playful menu features a mix of twists on classics and more adventurous creations. Main courses are divided into options for one person and others that are meant to be shared. Le Tout-Paris offers two wine lists. A small, curated selection is well chosen for the food and nicely done. I imagine it meets the needs of most diners just fine. Guests who want to delve further will find plenty to explore in the master hotel list, which is exceptionally broad. LVMH estates are well represented, but tastefully so. Wine Director Emmanuel Cadieu and his team are serious about wine, and it shows. Cadieu explained that the hotel’s philosophy is to make the list as accessible for guests as possible. As part of that mission, the staff will open most bottles and serve them by the glass and/or half bottle if asked, which is exactly the sort of service a restaurant and hotel at this level should offer. Chapeau.

A single oyster served with cucumber and lemongrass foam is the perfect start to this spring dinner. The 2015 Dom Pérignon is bright, fresh and wonderfully articulate. Citrus, floral and light savory notes abound. Medium in body and gracious, the 2015 is a fine choice for drinking now. It’s a Dom Pérignon that emphasizes freshness and vivacity more than anything else.

Foie Gras and Truffled Macaroni Memories with Artichoke.

Our appetizers are pure decadence. The Foie Gras and Truffled Macaroni Memories with Artichoke is a sort of adult, very French take on mac and cheese. Sultry and outrageously delicious, the Truffled Macaroni disappears in an instant, washed down with some Dom Pérignon, with views of the Eiffel Tower and the last rays of the late afternoon sun in the background. That’s a pretty great combination in my book. The Flammekueche with Black Truffle is a similarly alluring take on the classic Alsatian cheese and onion tart. Is there anything better than morels in spring? I think not. Unless they are paired with lobster, sea bass and a warm lobster-wild garlic broth as they are here. I especially admire the simplicity of this dish. Each ingredient speaks with eloquence. Haute couture. 

Morels, Lobster, White Bass, Lobster-Wild Garlic Broth.

Chave’s Hermitage Blanc is one of my favorite whites. Unfortunately, I don’t have a chance to drink it often. The 2008 Hermitage Blanc is fragrant and delicate, with plenty of the beeswax, cooked apple, almond, chamomile, dried apricot and tangerine notes that develop in this wine with age. Tonight the 2008 is a touch lithe in feel. It doesn’t quite have the textural depth and viscosity of some vintages, but it is remarkably fresh, poised and elegant. What a treat.

Veal Rack for Two; Mashed Potatoes with Wild Garlic.

The Veal Rack for Two is brought to the table whole for presentation, then taken back to the kitchen for plating. For a moment, I contemplate eating the whole thing myself. It’s a fabulous dish—perfectly cooked and seasoned, not to mention so delicious. Mashed potatoes, served on the side, are pure decadence. “You have to learn how to make these, Dad,” my daughter informs me. I am afraid to know how much butter is required.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée from Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg is all finesse. I have been buying these wines since well before the domaine began enjoying the visibility it does today. The 2017 opens with very pretty, floral aromatics, bright red-toned fruit, cinnamon, blood orange and cedar. Silky, polished tannins wrap it all together. Just starting to show the first signs of aromatic development, the 2017 is a fine choice for drinking now and over the next decade or so. 

It's hard to pass up dessert. The cheese plate, served with salad as is the custom in France, provides the perfect opportunity to have a few more sips of the Chave Hermitage Blanc. My daughter’s Profiterole Éclair is a bit too sweet for my palate, but she gives it a big thumbs up.

The 2022 Yquem is served from a 6L bottle into a small decanter and then presented tableside. It’s a nice touch. Although very young, the 2022 is exquisite today. The personality of the vintage leads me to expect a rich wine, but the 2022 Yquem is quite lifted and airy, its 160 grams of residual sugar notwithstanding. Hints of dried apricot, apricot, ginger, cedar, spice, tangerine oil and mint open gradually. My only regret is that I can’t drink all the wine in the decanter. It’s a fabulous conclusion to this unforgettable dinner. 

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