Al Cacciatore (La Subida)

Cormons, Localita Monte

22 Tel +39 0481 605 31

Fax +39 0481 623 88

September 2007

No trip to Friuli is complete without a visit to Al Cacciatore. Proprietors Joško and Loredana Sirk offer a refined version of country-style cooking in their homey, old-fashioned trattoria. Located in the hills of Cormons, Al Cacciatore reflects everything that is fascinating about this region so steeped in the traditions of multiple cultures. I remember the first time I ate at here, nearly five years ago, and how blown away I was by the unique combination of flavors that characterize this cooking. Savory and sweet flavors are used together in combinations that show a distinct link to the kitchens of Northern and Eastern Europe. The Sirks also feature the vast richness of local products like the delicate oils of the nearby Carso mountains, the unique smoked Prosciutto d’Osvaldo and a variety of micro-production artisan cheeses, to name a few. The wine list is extensive and very well-chosen, especially when it comes to the wines of the Sirk’s vintner friends. On my most recent visit highlights included the Frico, a typical dish made from fried Montasio, and the stuffed zucchini flowers, which were perfumed and delicate. I also loved the corn soup for its richness and the ravioli for the purity of its late summer flavors.

Edi Kante’s Sauvignon is typically a mineral-driven white that reflects just as much Carso terroir as it does varietal characteristics. His 1997 Sauvignon had gained weight in bottle and developed a very beautiful honeyed quality that complemented the notes of crushed rocks and flowers that flowed from the glass. It was a beautiful wine for our first courses. We wanted to drink a red with some bottle age to accompany our heartier dishes. The sommelier did an outstanding job in guiding us towards the 1994 Rosso della Centa from Borgo del Tiglio. This Bordeaux-inspired wine was simply stunning in its expression of vibrant dark fruit, herbs and roasted coffee beans. Sumptuously layered, long and pure, it was a wine that kept changing throughout the evening, showing a new dimension to its personality with each taste. On this night it would have easily given any of the better-known similar wines from Tuscany a run for their money.

Food:

Frico

Ricotta salata over polenta

Stuffed zucchini flowers

Corn soup

Roasted zucchini bocconcini on a Sambuca cream Course 6: Ravioli filled with vegetables

Oven-roasted rabbit

Selection of local artisan cheeses

Wine:

1997	Edi Kante Sauvignon	90
1994	Borgo del Tiglio Rosso della Centa	94

--Antonio Galloni