Ristorante Langotto

Via Giordano 8, Novello

12060 (CN) Italy

Tel. +39 (0)173 731193

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | SEPTEMBER 20, 2024

The Food:

The Salad: A Niçoise arrived in Piedmont; Egg, Tomato, Olives, Anchovies

Plin: Traditional Agnolotti Served In a Napkin

Pasta Bossolasco Spaghettone: Clams, Nettles, Carpione Beurre Blanc

Peach Carpaccio: Light Syrup, Vanilla Ice Cream

The Wines:

1982 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda	99
1982 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino	97

Readers traveling to Piedmont will find a dining scene replete with everything from informal wine bars to starred fine-dining establishments and everything in between. Eating and drinking in Piedmont is literally an embarrassment of riches. Even if one wanted to eat lunch and dinner out every day for a week (which might require packing extra-comfortable clothes), hitting all the top spots is impossible. I tend to prefer the classics, but over the last few years Langotto has become a favorite on those nights when I want to branch out.

The Salad: A Niçoise arrived in Piedmont; Egg, Tomato, Olives, Anchovies

Langotto is in Novello, in the space formerly occupied by Grecale. The intimate dining room is elegant, with minimalist lines and décor. Tables are nicely set apart, which adds to a relaxed ambience. Chef-Owner Otto Lucà offers a menu comprised of classics, some reimagined, and more creative dishes influenced by the years spent working in Alsace. It’s a fun, whimsical combination that works quite well and also differentiates Langotto from other restaurants in the region. Lucà’s partner, Elisa Andreotti, runs the front of the house. Andreotti worked at a number of top establishments in Italy, gaining her sommelier credentials along the way. Together, Otto and Andreotti convey the passion and warmth that are such signatures of Italian hospitality.

Plin: Traditional Agnolotti Served In a Napkin

Dinner starts with the obligatory pretzel and some tasty amuse-bouches. Breads, all made in house, are irresistible. The deconstructed Niçoise Salad is perfect for this late summer evening. Sardines, both fried and in olive oil, take the place of tuna in a dish that is as delicious as it is visually arresting. It's a classic Otto Lucà dish that marries classicism with innovation without going overboard. As much as I want to try new things, I have weak spot for the standards of the Piedmontese kitchen. We split a portion of the Angolotti del Plin, which is enough for me to get my fix. At Langotto, the agnolotti are served unseasoned, on a napkin, in the most traditional of presentations.

Pasta Bossolasco Spaghettone: Clams, Nettles, Carpione Beurre Blanc

I love the Spaghettone Mantecato alle Vongole. The spaghettone is served perfectly al dente, the wider shape of the pasta an ideal canvas for bold, lusty flavors that once again meld together the expected with the unexpected. Carpione beurre blanc, derived from the traditional Piedmontese vinegard-based preparation used to marinate fish, adds a kick of acids, while drops of nettles sauce add aromatic intensity. Fabulous. 

Langotto has a terrific wine list, especially notable for a restaurant of this size. Novello is featured, which is great to see. I wish more restaurateurs had a similar approach to showcasing local producers. Guests will find plenty of cherries on this list, including some of Piedmont’s most coveted bottles, many of them at very reasonable prices. On this night, my dear friend Il Professore brought two spectacular bottles to share. How could I say no? Nineteen eighty-two is one of my favorite vintages in Italy. I have always loved the wines for their energy and slightly linear, focused build. Both bottles were magnificent, something that is exceptionally rare with wines of this age in today’s world.

Bruno Giacosa’s 1982 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda is off the charts. What a bottle. Sweet, perfumed and haunting in its beauty, the 1982 is mesmerizing. Its understated depth and total finesse are nearly impossible to describe with words. Giacosa crafted Barolos of total seduction. The 1982 Riserva Collina Rionda remains one of his undisputed masterpieces. This is one of the very best bottles I have had. Readers who have tasted the 1982 know how special it is. Unfortunately, finding great bottles today is next to impossible. There is no upside to holding bottles any longer. Readers lucky enough to own the 1982 will want to enjoy it soon.

The gorgeous translucence of Bruno Giacosa's 1982 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda.

In my view, the 1982 Brunello di Montalcino is Gianfranco Soldera’s first important wine, the first wine that gives a hint as to the style that would come together more fully in future vintages. Still deep and virile, the 1982 is magnificent from the very first taste. From there, it only grows in presence and stature. Like so many Soldera wines, the 1982 gives the impression it could last another decade, maybe more. It’s a fabulous early masterpiece from Brunello’s greatest exponent.

Peach Carpaccio: Light Syrup, Vanilla Ice Cream

Succulent late-season peaches, served in a tartare, marinated in a light syrup, and topped with vanilla ice cream, is my kind of dessert. It’s a tasty and refreshing conclusion to this delicious dinner.

Vinous readers planning a trip to Piedmont will want to pay a visit to Langotto. Reservations are essential, especially in the upcoming fall season. I can’t wait to go back.

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