‘Tis TheSeason for Sparkling Wine

BY ERIC GUIDO | DECEMBER 12, 2024

It’s that time of year when we come together, reflect on the last 12months, spend time with loved ones and enjoy some delicious sparkling wines.I’m not just talking about a celebratory quaff or New Year's Eve traditions. Sparklingwine is hands down the number one category for gift-giving in the wine market.Whether it’s easygoing Prosecco or high-profile Champagne, retailers reloadover and over again through the month of December to keep up with demand.

For my sparkling wine needs, I often look to Italy for itscombination of quality, diversity and (in many cases) relative value. Italianwinemakers from across the boot have a deep-rooted love of Champagne, which ledto the creation of categories that aim to replicate the qualities of their favoritecelebratory beverage. Franciacorta, Trentodoc and Alta Langa use the samevarieties as Champagne and similar production methods. Each is also representativeof a unique terroir. Readers can find a breakdown of the individual terroirs byregion in my December 2022 article, "Italy's Love Affairwith Sparkling Wine." Beyond that, the Prosecco category has never been strongerand still represents impressive value in the marketplace. The number of winessubmitted for this sparkling report grows every year, with new and interestingprojects popping up throughout Italy. But Italian sparkling wine is not withoutits challenges.

Many Italian producers make decent sparkling wines but price themon par with Champagne, creating an environment in which consumers may disregardthe category entirely. For Franciacorta, Alta Langa and, to a lesser degree,Trentodoc, this does more harm than good. Granted, several producers continueto deliver exceptional wines that warrant their tariffs, such as Ferrari(Trentodoc), Ettore Germano (Alta Langa), Mirabella, Ca' Del Bosco, Bellavista,Camilucci, Uberti and Corte Aura (Franciacorta), but the fact remains that the majorityof wine produced in these regions is just passable for the price. Many timeshave I brought a Franciacorta to an event and served it to fellow wine-lovers,only to be met with comments such as, “It’s good but too expensive,” or“I like it, but can do better for the price,” and “I would drink thisif I didn’t have to pay for it.”

With that said, the ever-evolving category of Prosecco continuesto overdeliver. The fact remains that consumers can purchase premium-label andsingle-vineyard Proseccos for a fraction of the price of the aforementionedcategories. Proseccos are crafted using the Charmat, ortank method,where sugar is added to the fermenting juice in stainless steel tanks to start fermentationand generate carbon dioxide. Franciacorta, Trentodoc and Alta Langa all useMetodo Classico (méthode champenoise), followed by extended aging in bottle,which brings out further complexity through maturity and contact with the lees.It’s a more expensive and time-consuming process, but the results can competewith Champagne when done right. Lovers of Metodo Classico can also look beyondthe broader sparkling wine categories to individual estates. Winemakers throughoutItaly are experimenting with sparkling wine. Some have been doing so fordecades. Garofoli, in Marche, is a perfect example. When I visited Garofoli in2022, I was presented with several eye-opening, well-aged examples ofVerdicchio produced using Metodo Classico. I can give equal praise to sparklingNebbiolo in Piedmont or even Sangiovese vinified as Blanc de Noir.

Finally, we cannot ignore ​​Lambrusco, one of the world’s mostdiverse food-pairing wines. For many years, consumers equated Lambrusco witheasily slurpable semi-sweet (Amabile) to sticky-sweet (Dolce) wines. However, overthe past two decades, approaches have expanded to offer wines of significantcomplexity with more savory profiles. There’s a lot to like in this categorytoday, especially from the drier (Secco) style. These are deep, rich, livelywines made from a variety of grapes hailing from unique terroirs surroundingthe cities of Modena and Reggio Emilia. Readers who have yet to experience whatLambrusco is capable of today are in for a real treat. 

A Rehashing of Terms

For those new to the terminology of sparkling wine, understandingthe different sweetness levels can be confusing. Terms like "Brut"and "Extra Dry" might seem contradictory, but the balance of sugarand acidity plays a crucial role. For instance, despite containing up to 12grams per liter of residual sugar, a Brut Champagne can often taste quite drydue to its high acidity. Similarly, an Extra Dry Prosecco, with 12-17 grams ofresidual sugar, can be surprisingly balanced and enjoyable.

Brut Nature, Pas Dosé and Zero Dosage: Lessthan 3 grams per liter of residual sugar

Extra Brut: Between 0-6 grams per liter of residual sugar

Brut: Less than 12 grams per liter of residual sugar

Extra Dry: Between 12-17 grams per liter of residualsugar

Dry: Between 17-32 grams per liter of residual sugar

Demi-Sec: Between 32-50 grams per liter of residual sugar

I tasted the wines for this article in November and December 2024 during mytravels through Italy and in our New York City office.

© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

You Might Also Enjoy

Sparkling Wines from Italy for Every Occasion, Eric Guido, December 2023

Italy's Love Affair with Sparkling Wine, Eric Guido, December 2022

Italy’s Sparkling Wine Paradox, Eric Guido, December 2021

Italy’s Sparkling Advantage: Prosecco and Franciacorta, Eric Guido, December 2020