Ristorante Al Fiume

Contrà San Paolo, 2

36100 Vicenza, Italy

+39 0444 321320

info@alfiumevicenza.it

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JUNE 02, 2023

The Food:

Amberjack Carpaccio; pioppini mushrooms, dried tomatoes, marinated anchovies

Sarde in Saor

Spaghettino al Fiume; Durum Spaghetti, Garlic, Olive Oil, Chilis, Scampi Tartare, Lime

Fregola Sarda; Calamari, Shrimp, Scampi, Canestrelli

Fritto Misto

Coffee Crème Brulée

Chocolate Cake with Pistachio Sauce

The Wine:

2021 Lis Neris Sauvignon   88

I was fortunate to get to know the Veneto well during the three years I lived in Italy, as I had many clients throughout the region. I especially enjoyed the smaller, provincial towns, which to me, convey a truer essence of Italian lifestyle than the larger cities. Vicenza is at the top of my list of destinations that offer so much of what makes Italy so special, but without the crowds that make visiting some of the larger cities virtually unbearable these days.

Amberjack Carpaccio; pioppini mushrooms, dried tomatoes, marinated anchovies

Located in the old town center, just a few minutes from the Basilica Palladiana and many other attractions, Al Fiume offers a wide-ranging menu of fish and seafood-based cuisine. Dishes are rooted in the classics but interpreted with enough creativity to offer a refreshing break from tried-and-true versions while avoiding coming across as over-the-top or too abstract. The restaurant is quite small, with just a few cozy rooms. We were seated in a covered veranda of sorts that offered views of the Retrone River, which has a rich history going all the way back to antiquity. Then again, that is Italy. The entire country is basically a museum.

Sarde in Savor

We start with Sarde in Saor, a traditional Venetian dish in which sardines are marinated in a sweet/sour combination of onions, vinegar, pine nuts and raisins. In this variation, the sardines are fried and then topped with the onion-based relish. A little polenta on the side certainly never hurts. Delicious. The Amberjack (Ricciola) Carpaccio is nicely brightened by the accompanying ingredients. It is a refreshing, impeccably prepared appetizer that sets the stage for the dishes that follow. Just as importantly, I am delighted to see my children becoming increasingly curious about food and wine!

Spaghettino al Fiume; Durum Spaghetti, Garlic, Olive Oil, Chilis, Scampi Tartare, Lime

The Spaghettino al Fiume is another take on a classic that reaches a new level of sophistication thanks to an inspired grating of lime zest and the scampi crudo that is carefully arranged over the pasta. A beautiful and delicious creation, the spaghettino is a terrific example of the cuisine diners can expect here. Fregola Sarda, a Sardinian pasta made from toasted semolina, is even better. Sweet, rich flavors of the sea meld into a pasta that is immensely satisfying. I could have eaten a second portion. 

Fregola Sarda; Calamari, Shrimp, Scampi, Canestrelli

A super-classic Fritto Misto follows. This is one dish on the menu that is presented without too many twists. But what is there to change? Nothing. Fritto Misto is one of those staples of the Italian kitchen that seems so simple but is very hard to execute well. We devour it.

Fritto Misto

The wine list at Al Fiume is pretty straightforward. If there is one area for improvement, this is certainly it. Choices from Veneto are limited, while the overall selection, in my view, is uninspired. This cuisine deserves better. The 2021 Lis Neris Sauvignon, from the estate’s entry-level range, is solid, varietally correct and works well with the food. On this night, I wanted nothing more than that, and the wine certainly delivered.

I only had a taste of the kids’ Coffee Crème Brulée and Chocolate Cake with Pistachio Sauce, but enough to know they were delicious. Dessert, often treated as an afterthought, can be a disappointing way to end a meal. Not here, both are delicious.

Coffee Crème Brulée

Readers visiting Vicenza will want to check out Al Fiume. The staff did an outstanding job on this night, during Easter weekend, even though they seemed to be short-handed, a challenge for all hospitality businesses these days. Judging by all the “Help Wanted” signs we saw in store windows throughout town, labor appears to be in short supply here as it is pretty much everywhere. For its food, ambiance and warmth of hospitality, Al Fiume gets very high marks from our family. Now, for that winelist…

© 2023, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.