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San Polo, 2202
30125 Venezia
Tel. +39 041 721308
BY IAN D’AGATA | MARCH 10, 2017
The Food:
Crab meat with its coral sauce (Granceola con salsa al corallo)
Salt cod Venetian style (Baccalà mantecato alla veneziana)
Hand made Bigoli in Venetian sauce (Bigoli al torchio in salsa veneziana)
Tagliolini au gratin with large shrimp and red radicchio (Tagliolini gratinati agli scampi con radicchio rosso di chioggia)
Burano soft shell crabs with white polenta and wild field greens salad (Moleche di Burano fritte con polenta bianca e insalata misticanza)
The Wines:
2015 Marchiori Perera |
91 |
2014 Marchiori Bianchetta |
90 |
1986 Nikolaihof Weingebirge Riesling Spätlese Trocken |
92 |
1997 Quintarelli Recioto della Valpolicella |
94+ |
Da Fiore's charming entrance
One of my favorite restaurants in Italy, a sentiment no doubt fueled by memories of halcyon childhood lunches and dinners with the family is Mara and Maurizio Martin’s Osteria da Fiore (though the website proudly states ‘ristorante’, not ‘osteria’). In fact, the place is much more of a restaurant than osteria, with an elegant dining room and professional waiters, some of whom have seemingly worked at Da Fiore forever.
Crab meat with its coral sauce
The restaurant asks that guests refrain from wearing sleeveless shirts or short trousers, and that too is more restaurant than osteria mode. The refined setting (though tables can be a little too close and my advice is to ask ahead for a table that won’t make you feel too snug) is made that much more romantic by a unique balcony table available for two people overlooking the canal, naturally the most coveted seat in the house come spring and summer. Clearly, Da Fiore’s well heeled and well behaved patrons don’t need to worry about what the restaurant calls itself, for both food and wines are fine and the place guarantees a memorable Venetian meal.
Salt cod Venetian style
The restaurant offers a creative twist on traditional Venetian recipes many of which Mara learned to cook from her grandmother, an accomplished chef. The strict selection of local produce and roughly 700 different wines and fine spirits to choose from are also part of Da Fiore’s noteworthy charms. That said, it is the impeccable rendering of Venetian staples that best showcases Mara’s culinary talent. For example, while you’ll find baccalà mantecato everywhere in Venice, Da Fiore’s version is easily one of the two or three best you’ll try anywhere, something that will jump out at anyone paying even a modicum of attention to what he or she has eaten during their time spent in the city.
Hand made Bigoli in Venetian
sauce
My two very fresh appetizers, a clean and sweet and salty crabmeat dish and a luxurious, almost sultry baccalà mantecato, were perfectly matched to two extremely rare Veneto white wines (only about 1300 bottles/year made of each) that Da Fiore has in exclusivity for Venice (another thoughtful touch). Marchiori is an outstanding Veneto producer, better known for his excellent Proseccos (see my recent article in Vinous: Bubbles Ahoy, Veneto’s Great Sparklers for more).
Tagliolini au gratin with
large shrimp and red radicchio
The 2015 Marchiori Perera and
the 2014 Marchiori Bianchetta
(Bianchetta Trevigiana actually, but that’s not stated on the label) are
delightful mono-variety examples of what these two now rare indigenous Veneto grapes
can bring to the table (literally, in fact). Both were once an important part
of the blends used in Prosecco (which historically was not made just with
Glera). While the very light-bodied Perera is perfumed and vibrant (and an
absolutely perfect foil for the creamy rich baccalà
mantecato as well as the moleche
fritte that followed later), the Bianchetta offers relatively greater size
and perceived sweetness (though it’s a totally dry wine) and measures up better
with the crab dish.
The outstanding 1986 Nikolaihof Weingebirge Riesling Spätlese Trocken pairs beautifully with the two pasta dishes, adding something to each. At once crisp and leesy, with hints of peach, petrol, freshly cut grass, chamomile and bitter orange marmalade, it adds another dimension to the Bigoli in salsa Veneziana (a local sauce based on sweet onions and bitter radicchio rosso, each of which stands out more thanks to the citrus-herbal notes of the wine) and lift to the creamy, thick tagliolini gratinati. The 1997 Quintarelli Recioto della Valpolicella remains one of the truly iconnic versions of this wine. Sweet and rich yet remarkably light on its feet (like Quintarelli’s Amarones), it offers a refined mix of red plums, mocha, and sweet spices. Best of all, it drinks perfectly right now, and brings this wonderful meal to a fabulous close.
Beautiful Venice by night
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- Vinous Table: Bâtard, New York (Dec 2015)
- Vinous Table: Mott 32, Hong Kong (Dec 2015)
- Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)
- Vinous Table: Veuve Clicquot Retrospective at Marea, New York (Nov 2015)
- Vinous Table: La Fermette Marbeuf, Paris, France (Nov 2015)
- Vinous Table: Vecio Fritolin, Venezia, Italy (Nov 2015)
- Vinous Table: Zass, Positano, Italy (Nov 2015)
- Vinous Table: Champagne Dinner at the CORE: club, New York (Oct 2015)
- Vinous Table: The Hinds Head, Bray, UK (Oct 2015)
- Vinous Table: Al Gambero, Calvisano, Italy (Oct 2015)
- Vinous Table: The Carlile Room, Seattle, WA (Oct 2015)
- Vinous Table: Alla Dama Bianca, Trieste, Italy (Oct 2015)
- Vinous Table: La Pyramide Patrick Henriroux, Vienne, France (Sep 2015)
- Vinous Table: Ava Gene’s, Portland, OR (Sep 2015)
- Vinous Table: Torre del Saracino, Vico Equense (Naples), Italy (Sep 2015)
- Vinous Table: La Ciccia, San Francisco, CA (Sep 2015)
- Vinous Table: Le Sirenuse Pool Bar and Grill, Positano, Italy (Aug 2015)
- Vinous Table: La Caravella, Amalfi, Italy (Aug 2015)
- Vinous Table: Bar Boulud, New York (Aug 2015)
- Vinous Table: ad hoc, Yountville, CA (Aug 2015)
- Vinous Table: Lo Scudiero, Palermo, Sicily (Jul 2015)
- Vinous Table: Jean-Georges, New York (Jul 2015)
- Vinous Table: Maialino, New York (Jul 2015)
- Vinous Table: Carbone, New York (Jul 2015)
- Vinous Table: Salumeria Roscioli, Rome, Italy (Jun 2015)
- Vinous Table: I Pupi Ristorante, Bagheria, Sicily (Jul 2015)
- Vinous Table: The Milling Room, New York, New York (Jun 2015)
- Vinous Table: Brasserie Lipp, Paris, France (Jun 2015)
- Vinous Table: Daniel, New York (Jun 2015)
- Vinous Table: Giuda Ballerino, Rome (May 2015)
- Vinous Table: Joël Robuchon Restaurant, Bordeaux (May 2015)
- Vinous Table: State Bird Provisions, San Francisco (May 2015)
- Vinous Table: Ristorante Quadri, Venice (May 2015)
- Vinous Table: Redd Wood, Yountville (May 2015)
- Vinous Table: Husk, Charleston (Apr 2015)
- Vinous Table: Pascucci al Porticciolo (Apr 2015)
- Vinous Table: Bâtard, New York (Apr 2015)
- Vinous Table: Loulay, Seattle (Apr 2015)
- Vinous Table: Rock Creek Seafood & Spirits, Seattle (Mar 2015)
- Vinous Table: Bofinger, Paris (Mar 2015)
- Vinous Table: St. John's, London (Mar 2015)
- Vinous Table, Maialino, New York (Mar 2015)
- Vinous Table: Canoe, Toronto (Feb 2015)
- Vinous Table: Marzapane, Rome (Feb 2015)
- Vinous Table: McCrady’s Restaurant, Charleston (Feb 2015)
- Vinous Table: California Classics at Bar Boulud, New York (Jan 2015)
- Vinous Table: Massimo Camia, La Morra (Jan 2015)
- Vinous Table: Restaurant La Galottière, Loire (Jan 2015)
- Vinous Table: l’Angolo d’Abruzzo, Carsoli (Jan 2014)
- 2014
- Vinous Table: Bar Boulud, New York (Dec 2014)
- Vinous Table: Miramonti l’Altro, Lombardy, Italy (Dec 2014)
- Vinous Table: Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (Dec 2014)
- Vinous Table: Ai Fiori, New York (Dec 2014)
- Vinous Table: Le Bernardin, New York (Nov 2014)
- Vinous Table: La Ciau del Tornavento, Treiso (Nov 2014)
- White Truffles, Barolo & Barbaresco (Nov 2014)
- Vinous Table: Press, St Helena (Oct 2014)
- Vinous Table: Glen Ellen Star, Glen Ellen (Oct 2014)
- The Vinous 2014 Guide to Eating and Drinking in Piedmont (Oct 2014)
- Cristal and Icons from Piedmont & Bordeaux (Oct 2014)
- Vinous Table: Ad Hoc, Yountville (Oct 2014)
- Vinous Table: Barolofriends Wine Bar, Barolo (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Restaurant F and B, Beaune (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Guido da Costigliole, Relais San Maurizio (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Locanda ’800, Verona, Italy (Aug 2014)
- Vinous Table: Hostellerie des Clos, Chablis (Aug 2014)
- Vinous Table: La Piola, Alba (Aug 2014)
- Vinous Table: La Ciau del Tornavento, Treiso (Aug 2014)
- Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Relais del Sant'Uffizio, Asti, Italy (Aug 2014)
- Vinous Table: Musique & Vin (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Le Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: maze, London (Jun 2014)
- Vinous Table: Cappellano Barolos at the Four Seasons, New York (Jun 2014)
- Vinous Table: Mattei’s Tavern, Los Olivos, Santa Barbara (Jun 2014)
- Vinous Table: Boulud Sud, New York (May 2014)
- Vinous Table: Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant, Santa Barbara (Jun 2014)
- Vinous Table: Ora d'Aria, Florence, Italy (May 2014)
- Vinous Table: Ai Fiori, New York (May 2014)
- Vinous Table: Solbar, Calistoga (Apr 2014)
- Vinous Table: Chave Hermitage Vertical at Ristorante Morini, New York (May 2014)
- Vinous Table: Press, St. Helena, California (Apr 2014)
- Vinous Table: L’Univerre, Bordeaux (Apr 2014)
- Vinous Table: Marea, New York (Apr 2014)
- Vinous Table: L’Assiette Champenoise, Reims, France (Mar 2014)
- Vinous Table: Charity Dinner to Benefit the Frankie Lemmon School (Mar 2014)
- Vinous Table: Gasthof Krone, Alto Adige (Mar 2014)
- Vinous Table: Maialino, New York (Mar 2014)
- La Festa del Barolo 2013 Gala Dinner (Mar 2014)
- Vinous Table: Ai Fiori, New York (Feb 2014)
- Vinous Table: Barberian’s Steak House, Toronto (Feb 2015)
- Vinous Table: Castello di Grinzane Cavour, Piedmont, Italy (Feb 2014)
- Vinous Table: Le Bernardin, New York (Feb 2014)
- Vinous Table: Brooklyn Fare, New York (Jan 2014)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Jan 2014)
- Gala Dinner at the World Wine Symposium (Jan 2014)
- Vinous Table: Hurricane Sandy Charity Dinner at The Modern (Jan 2014)
- 2013
- Vinous Table: Lincoln Ristorante, New York (Dec 2013)
- Vinous Table: Mas Farmhouse, New York (Dec 2013)
- Vinous Table: Ai Fiori, New York (Dec 2013)
- Vinous Table: Aureole, New York (Dec 2013)
- Vinous Table: Piedmont Icons at Del Posto (Dec 2013)
- Vinous Table: The Night of the Forgotten Labels (Nov 2013)
- Vinous Table: La Ciau del Tornavento, Treiso, Italy (Nov 2013)
- Vinous Table: Centro Storico, Piedmont (Nov 2013)
- Vinous Table: Piedmont Gems from the Cellar (Oct 2013)
- Vinous Table: Cabernet Lovers of New York City (Oct 2013)
- Vinous Table: Park Tavern, San Francisco (Oct 2013)
- Vinous Table: Classic Napa Cabernets at Press, St. Helena (Oct 2013)
- School’s in Session – Dinner with Il Professore (Oct 2013)
- The Vinous Guide to Eating and Drinking in Piedmont (Sep 2013)
- Vinous Table: La Ciau del Tornavento, Treiso, Italy (Sep 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Sep 2013)
- Vinous Table: Tavernetta all’Androna, Grado, Italy (Aug 2013)
- Vinous Table: La Subida, Cormòns, Italy (Aug 2013)
- Vinous Table: La Pineta, Livorno, Italy (Aug 2013)
- Vinous Table: Villa Bordoni, Greve in Chianti, Italy (Aug 2013)
- Vinous Table: Alla Dama Bianca, Trieste, Italy (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Ma Cuisine, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)
- La Festa del Barolo: Rare Wine Charity Dinner (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Trattoria de Toni, Grado, Italy (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Artisan, Paso Robles, CA (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Thomas Hill Organics, Paso Robles, CA (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Le Bernardin, New York, NY (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: The French Laundry, Yountville, CA (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: Charlie Bird, New York (June 2013)
- Vinous Table: Les Avisés, Avize, France (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: La Rei, Serralunga, Italy (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: RN 74, San Francisco (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: Five Decades of Classic Napa Valley Cabernets at Press, St. Helena (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: Marea, New York (May 2013)
- Vinous Table: Solbar, Calistoga (May 2013)
- Vinous Table: NoMad (Jan 2013)
- 2012
- 1978 Piemonte Retrospective at Eleven Madison Park (Nov 2012)
- Vinous Table: Jean-Georges, New York (Sep 2012)
- The 2002 Burgundies at Eleven Madison Park (May 2012)
- Vinous Table: "Gourmand" menu at Eleven Madison Park, New York (Mar 2012)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Mar 2012)
- Masseto Vertical at A Voce Columbus (Mar 2012)
- Vinous Table: Ristorante di Poggio Antico, Montalcino, Italy (Feb 2012)
- 9th Annual Wine Dinner and Auction to Benefit The Mount Sinai Hospital (Feb 2012)
- 2011
- Vinous Table: Blue Hill at Stone Barns, NY (Dec 2011)
- Fourth Annual White Truffle Charity Dinner (Nov 2011)
- Vinous Table: Marea, New York (Oct 2011)
- Vinous Table: Union Square Cafe, New York (Sep 2011)
- Vinous Table: Marea, New York (Sep 2011)
- Vinous Table: The Four Seasons Restaurant, New York (Sept 2011)
- Vinous Table: Solbar, Calistoga, California (Apr 2011)
- Vinous Table: Press, St. Helena (Apr 2011)
- La Festa del Barolo Gala Dinner at Del Posto (Mar 2011)
- Vinous Table: Dinner in the Kitchen at Eleven Madison Park, New York (Mar 2011)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Feb 2011)
- 2010
- Vinous Table: Del Posto, New York (Dec 2010)
- Vinous Table: Da Nando, Friuli, Italy (Dec 2010)
- Bruno Giacosa Dinner at Bar Boulud, New York (Oct 2010)
- Vinous Table: Del Posto, New York (Oct 2010)
- Vinous Table: Locanda Verde, New York (Oct 2010)
- Vinous Table: Casual dinner at Del Posto, New York (Oct 2010)
- Vinous Table: Casa Lever, New York (Sep 2010)
- Bruce’s Birthday Bash 2010 (Jul 2010)
- Vinous Table: Marea, New York (June 2010)
- Vinous Table: Esca, New York (Jun 2010)
- Vinous Table: Dom Pérignon and Giacosa Verticals, Del Posto, New York (Jun 2010)
- Pazo Restaurant (Jun 2010)
- Haiti Charity Dinner (Jun 2010)
- Vinous Table: RN74, San Francisco (Mar 2010)
- Vinous Table: Petit Louis Bistro, Baltimore (Feb 2010)
- Vinous Table: Convivo, New York (Feb 2010)
- Vinous Table: Jean-Georges, New York (Feb 2010)
- Vinous Table: 1964 Dom Pérignon, Giacosa's 1989s & 1990s, Del Posto, New York (Jan 2010)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Jan 2010)
- 2009
- Vinous Table: Ristorante Bovio, La Morra, Italy (Nov 2009)
- Vinous Table: La Rei, Serralunga d'Alba, Italy (Nov 2009)
- Italian Wine Weekend at Del Posto (Nov 2009)
- Third Annual White Truffle Charity Dinner (Nov 2009)
- Vinous Table: Marea, New York (Oct 2009)
- Vinous Table: Corton, New York (Oct 2009)
- Vinous Table: Second night at Eleven Madison Park, New York (Oct 2009)
- Vinous Table: First night at Eleven Madison Park, New York (Oct 2009)
- Vinous Table: Solociccia, Firenze, Italy (Aug 2009)
- Italy 1990 at Eleven Madison Park (Jul 2009)
- Bruce’s Birthday Bash 2009, Part 1 (Jul 2009)
- Bruce’s Birthday Bash 2009, Part 2 (Jul 2009)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Jul 2009)
- Vinous Table: Alto New York (Jun 2009)
- A Taste of Champagne at Eleven Madison Park, New York (Jun 2009)
- 1970s Night at Babbo, New York (Jun 2009)
- Jackson Hole Wine Auction Charity Dinner at Alto (May 2009)
- Vinous Table: Matbaren, Stockholm, Sweden (Apr 2009)
- Vinous Table: Bar Boulud, New York (Apr 2009)
- Vinous Table: L’Oste Scuro, Verona, Italy (Apr 2009)
- Vinous Table: Il Calandrino, Padova, Italy (Apr 2009)
- La Paulée 2009 (Part 1) (Mar 2009)
- La Paulée 2009 (Part 3) (Mar 2009)
- La Paulée 2009 (Part 2) (Mar 2009)
- Vinous Table: Bellavitae, New York (Mar 2009)
- Vinous Table: Veritas, New York (Mar 2009)
- Vinous Table: The Modern, New York (Mar 2009)
- Vinous Table: Del Posto, New York (Feb 2009)
- 2008
- A Holiday Lunch (Dec 2008)
- 2nd Annual Barolo and White Truffle Charity Dinner (Dec 2008)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Dec 2008)
- Vinous Table: Esca, New York (Dec 2008)
- Vinous Table: Asiate, New York (Nov 2008)
- Vinous Table: Bar Boulud, New York (Oct 2008)
- Dom Ruinart at Cru, New York (Oct 2008)
- Vinous Table: Ristorante Cracco, Milan, Italy (Sep 2008)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Jul 2008)
- Bruce’s 50th Birthday Bash (Jul 2008)
- Vinous Table: Otto, New York (Jul 2008)
- Vinous Table: Bar Boulud, New York (Jun 2008)
- Vinous Table: La Ciau del Tornavento, Trieste, Italy (May 2008)
- Vinous Table: L’Aquila d’Oro, Dolegna Del Collio, Italy (May 2008)
- Vinous Table: Noble's Restaurant, North Carolina (May 2008)
- Vinous Table: Babbo, New York (Apr 2008)
- Vinous Table: Al Cacciatore - La Subida, Friulu, Italy (Apr 2008)
- Vinous Table: Asiate, New York (Apr 2008)
- Soldera Brunellos and 1979 Champagnes at Alto, New York (Apr 2008)
- Vinous Table: Le Dune, Friuli (Apr 2008)
- La Paulée de San Francisco (Mar 2008)
- Dinner at Home (Mar 2008)
- Vinous Table: The Restaurant at Meadowood, St. Helena, CA (Mar 2008)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Mar 2008)
- Vinous Table: Daniel, New York (Feb 2008)
- Vinous Table: Alto, New York (Feb 2008)
- Vinous Table: Esca, New York (Jan 2008)
- Festa di Barolo (Jan 2008)
- 2007
- Vinous Table: Guido da Costigliole, San Maurizio, Italy (Nov 2007)
- The HANY Charity Dinner (Nov 2007)
- Dinner with Friends (Nov 2007)
- Vinous Table: Babbo, New York (Oct 2007)
- Vinous Table: Lunch with Friends (Oct 2007)
- Vinous Table: Al Cacciatore - La Subida, Friuli, Italy (Sep 2007)
- Vinous Table: Al Campiello, Friuli (Sep 2007)
- Jackson Hole Wine Auction Charity Dinner at Daniel (Aug 2007)
- Vinous Table: Bellavitae, New York (Aug 2007)
- Vinous Table: Locanda nel Borgo Antico, Barolo, Italy (Aug 2007)
- Vinous Table: L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon at The Four Seasons, New York (Jun 2007)
- Vinous Table: La Pizza Fresca Ristorante, New York (Jun 2007)
- Vinous Table: Da Cesare, Piedmont, Italy (Apr 2007)
- Vinous Table: The Four Seasons Restaurant, New York (Apr 2007)
- La Paulée de New York (Mar 2007)
- Vinous Table: Per Se, New York (Mar 2007)
- Bruno Giacosa and Giacomo Conterno at Della Notte, Baltimore (Jan 2007)
- 2006
- Dinner at Home with Le Macchiole (Dec 2006)
- A Holiday Lunch (Dec 2006)
- Vinous Table: La Bottega del Vino, New York (Dec 2006)
- Vinous Table: Le Calandre, Padova, Italy (Dec 2006)
- Vinous Table: Villa De Winckels, Verona, Italy (Dec 2006)
- Vinous Table: Esca, New York (Oct 2006)
- Vinous Table: Michael Mina, San Francisco (Oct 2006)
- Vinous Table: Da Cesare, Piedmont, Italy (Sep 2006)
- A Birthday Dinner (Sep 2006)
- Vinous Table: Centro Storico, Piedmont (Sep 2006)
- Vinous Table: Del Posto, New York (Mar 2006)