Del Posto Ristorante

85 10th Ave,

New York, NY 10011

Tel (212) 497-8090

This incredible dinner was organized around two themes; an in-depth look at several bottlings of the 1964 Dom Pérignon and a survey of Bruno Giacosa’s 1989s and 1990s, with a few bottles added for further perspective. Executive Chef Mark Ladner prepared a fabulous menu to go with our wines…in fact, the food was so delicious and the wines so brilliant that we added a couple of extra savory courses after the dinner had actually ended! All three pastas were among the highlights of this menu, but it was the Wood Grilled Lobster with Gnocchetti Sardi that stole the show. It was a superbly executed, rich dish that paired exquisitely with the wines. The Lobster is worth a visit on its own. Service was top-notch. Wine Director Henry Davar and his team did a fabulous job taking care of our ever-expanding array of bottles.

We started with two pristine magnums of Henriot’s Cuvée des Enchanteleurs, which were a treat to taste. The 1959 was a touch slender, but compensated for that with a silky mousse and warm, toasty flavors. Hints of truffle lingered on the finish. The 1976 was rounder and more generous in its up-front fruit, but lacked the complexity and nuance of the 1959. Both bottles were delicious from the start, but neither offered as much evolution in the glass as I had hoped. These were recent re-releases from Henriot’s cellars.

What can I say about the opportunity to sample six different bottlings of Dom Pérignon other than it was an otherworldly experience?  I loved the first 1964 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque we tasted, a 2004 release. The mousse was imperceptibly fine and elegant, with pretty notes of smoke and hazelnuts that came together with remarkable harmony. Another of my favorites was the 1964 Œnothèque (capsule label, believed to be a late 1990s/early 2000s release). This vivid, richly-textured Champagne offered incredible delineation in a boisterous, extroverted style for a wine of this era. It was fabulous. The 1964 Dom Pérignon (Recently Disgorged label, believed to be an early 1990s release) was another of the more finessed, subtle wines in this group. The 1964 Dom Pérignon (foil capsule, believed to be a 1970s/1980s release) and 1964 Dom Pérignon (plastic capsule, believed to be an original release) were both rather forward and showed oxidative qualities that were most appreciated by tasters who enjoy mature, fully resolved Champagnes. The 1964 Dom Pérignon (magnum, believed to be a 1970s release) was served later in the evening, after the first five 1964 Dom Pérignons. In many ways, the best was saved for last, as this profound Champagne delivered an incredible drinking experience. Hazelnuts, dried apricots and spices lingered on the eternal finish.

Domaine Leflaive’s 1982 Bâtard-Montrachet, tasted from magnum, was simply exquisite. Layers of rich, unctuous fruit melded seamlessly into persistent minerally notes in a beautiful, textured fabric of remarkable grace. The long, sublime finish alone was majestic. This magnum was quite a bit fresher than the same wine tasted from standard 750-ml bottle a few weeks prior.

A complete line-up of Bruno Giacosa’s 1989 and 1990 Barolos and Barbarescos was a privilege to taste, particularly as virtually every bottle was as perfect as one can reasonably hope for. I slightly preferred the 1990s for their greater consistency across the board, but there was little question none of those wines, as brilliant as they were, matched the peaks of the 1989s. Some tasters preferred the 1989 vintage, but without exception those tasters gave greater weight to the brilliance of the best 1989s over the consistency of the 1990s, which was essentially splitting hairs at this level. It was incredible to taste all of these Barolos and Barbarescos side by side in a small group setting that allowed for generous pours and plenty of time to evaluate each of the wines. I have been fortunate to taste all of these wines on multiple occasions recently, and readers will find complete, formal notes as well as much more detail on these two great Piedmontese vintages here.

Giacosa’s 1989s were fantastic. The 1989 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda was mind-blowingly perfect as it nearly always is. This remains one of the most brilliant wines ever made, in any region. While the Rionda showed a more delicate side of Serralunga, the 1989 Barolo Riserva Falletto was decidedly more virile in its expression. It, too, was fabulous. I have always considered Giacosa’s 1989 Barolo Villero as a poor man’s Rionda, as well-stored bottles can be wonderful, which this one was. Unfortunately we did not have a profound bottle of the 1989 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano, while the 1989 Barbaresco Gallina was pretty, but somewhat rustic.

The fireworks really got going with Giacosa’s 1990s, as every bottle showed beautifully. The 1990 Barolo Riserva Falletto was among the standouts of this flight. It remains a richly-textured, powerful Barolo with several decades of life ahead of it! The 1990 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano was monumental. The wine’s inner perfume and sweetness were just superb. The 1990 Barbaresco Riserva was another of the standouts. This is one of the rare gems in the Giacosa cannon as the lack of vineyard designation has caused the wine to fly under the radar for many years. On this night it was an imposing, powerful Barbaresco loaded with fruit and tons of Neive personality. I was floored by the 1990 Barbaresco Riserva Asili, which emerged from the glass with a haunting bouquet that reminded me of some of the finest Musignys. The 1990 Barolo Villero was round, sweet harmonious and hugely enjoyable. Giacosa’s 1990 Barbaresco Gallina was another of the overachievers, with gorgeous fruit and a seamless, caressing personality. The only disappointment in this flight was the 1990 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda, a wine that has never been satisfying, particularly within the context of Giacosa’s Red Labels.

Giuseppe Mascarello’s 1989 Barolo Monprivato had no trouble keeping up with the previous wines, as it was utterly breathtaking. Sadly, the 1990 Barolo Monprivato was a victim of poor storage. Luciano Sandrone’s 1989 and 1990 Barolo Cannubi Boschis were both brilliant, but quite different. The 1989 showed off a classic, layered profile of sweet, perfumed fruit, minerals and spices, while the 1990 was darker, richer and more sumptuous, with a modern expression of texture and sweet scents of new French oak that framed the fruit through to the long, elegant finish. Both bottles were totally delicious.

We finished with a true rarity, the 1934 Lafite-Rothschild. Spice cake, prunes, licorice, leather and menthol came together beautifully in the glass as this impeccable wine showed off its pedigree and class. It was a great way to end a magical night.

Food:

Assaggi, Spuntini & Snacks

Matsutaki Mushrooms

Pumpkin Cappellaci with Almond Milk, Black Truffle & Sage

Del Posto Agnolotti dal Plin with Parmigiano Reggiano

Garganelli Verdi al Ragù Bolognese

Beef Ribeye with Chicory Salad, Cesare’s Beans & Tomato Conserva

Artisan Cheeses

Spaghetti with Lobster

Wood Grilled Lobster with Gnocchetti Sardi & Salicornia

Wine:

1959	Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs (magnum)	92
1976	Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs (magnum)	91
1964	Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon Œnothèque (dark green/black label)	94
1964	Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon Œnothèque (capsule label)	95
1964	Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon (Recently Disgorged label)	93
1964	Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon (foil capsule)	92
1964	Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon (plastic capsule)	92
1964	Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon (magnum)	96
1982	Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet (magnum)	96
1989	Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Gallina	94
1989	Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano	95
1989	Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero	90
1989	Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto	97
1989	Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda	100
1990	Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Gallina	94
1990	Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva	96
1990	Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili	96
1990	Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero	95
1990	Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano	97
1990	Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto	97
1990	Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda	92
1989	Giuseppe Mascarello & Figli Barolo Monprivato	98
1990	Giuseppe Mascarello & Figli Barolo Monprivato	?
1989	Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis	97
1990	Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis	96
1934	Chateau Lafite-Rothschild	93

 --Antonio Galloni