Vasse Felix Tom Cullity 2013-2022

BY ANGUS HUGHSON | MARCH 31, 2026

Margaret River is a surprisingly young wine region, considering its profile and impact within the wider Australian landscape. It was only in the 1990s that vineyard planting began in earnest. Many sites are considerably younger, which makes it difficult to fully understand the region’s trajectory and true potential. There is only a small number of wines from the oldest plantings that truly demonstrate how the region’s quality and longevity compare with other iconic Cabernet Sauvignons from around the world. One of these is Vasse Felix’s Tom Cullity. Sourced from the oldest vines in Margaret River that also happen to be some of the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon in Australia, this cuvée comprises Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec that Dr. Tom Cullity planted in 1967.

Vasse Felix’s top red wine was originally known as the Heytesbury and alternated between different varietal blends according to vintage, though Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec often played a vital role. The fruit came from old blocks, made up of pre-phylloxera plant material dating back to the 1850s. Over time, it became clear that these two varieties could not only best represent Margaret River terroir, but also create the region’s finest and most ageworthy wines. Blending Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec without other varieties is a little unusual from a global perspective, but it reflects the property’s most historic plantings and speaks to Vasse Felix’s confidence and vision in forging their own path.

Tasting from barrel with Vasse Felix's Chief Winemaker, Virginia WIllcock.

Winemaking for the Tom Cullity has evolved over time, driven by Virginia Willcock, Vasse Felix’s thoughtful and irrepressible Chief Winemaker. Today, it comprises both older and new plantings from six plots and three different row orientations on the estate, which sits on both sides of the Wilyabrup Brook. Margaret River has a number of rivers and brooks that drain into the Indian Ocean, and many of the region's wines—including the Tom Cullity—are grown close to them. These bodies of water draw cooling influences and humidity inland to the vineyards.

After an extended cold soak, the destemmed fruit enjoys a long, slow, cool ferment with wild yeasts. Malbec is pressed off at 10 to 14 days, while Cabernet Sauvignon undergoes extended maceration. There is no rack and return, and the wine is aged on full lees for 16 to 18 months in French oak barriques (two-thirds new).

The full-vintage vertical of Tom Cullity.

Tasting ten consecutive vintages of the Vasse Felix Tom Cullity confirmed that it is indeed a benchmark wine for the region, a wine for which every element of both viticulture and winemaking has been painstakingly considered. Vasse Felix strives to make the best of what nature has provided, balancing respect for the terroir and vintage with an eye toward the great Cabernet Sauvignons from around the world. The vintage variation in this vertical was fascinating to observe, ranging from lighter and more ethereal renditions in cooler years such as 2019 and 2017, to denser, more structural wines from 2016, 2018 and 2020. Vasse Felix successfully adapted their winemaking to the conditions of each season, and it was truly exciting to see each vintage reflected in such vivid detail. The best of these wines will live for decades and most certainly have earned their place on the world stage. 

I tasted these wines in Margaret River during my visit in late 2025.

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