Cavallotto: Raiding the Cellar

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | DECEMBER 19, 2025

The first edition of Vinous Icons: Italy, held in May 2025, got off to a serious bang with this vertical tasting and dinner of Cavallotto Barolos dating back to the 1960s. It was a special evening of superb wine, food and the kind of camaraderie that the best wines inspire. We surveyed Barolos across six decades, a great opportunity to examine how these wines have developed over several generations. 

This dinner was held in the private dining room at Legacy Records in New York, a space where we did many events until the restaurant closed in late 2025. Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Hardy and his team once again turned out a fabulous dinner that paired beautifully with the wines. Beverage Director Theo Lieberman, a veteran of Vinous events, took great care to serve the wines at the correct temperature. We tasted all the wines several hours before service, decanted for sediment and set aside any bottles that were questionable. Readers will see in the tasting notes that some wines were served from magnum.

A Brief History

Cavallotto is one of the most historic names in Piedmont. Giacomo Cavallotto bought Bricco Boschis in 1928. The vineyard is named after Giuseppe Boschis, the foreman who took care of the property back in the day when Marquise Juliette Colbert was a leading figure in Barolo. Brothers Olivio and Gildo Cavallotto made their first estate Barolo from Bricco Boschis in 1946, before the fashion of vineyard-designate wines swept through Piedmont starting in the early 1960s. I met Olivio Cavallotto a few times during my first visits to the estate. He was a quiet, shy man who embodied the reserve of old-school Piedmont.

In 1967, the Cavallottos took the next step and began labeling their Barolo Bricco Boschis. Three years later, the Cavallottos began making a Riserva, specifying which sections of the vineyard were used for each bottling. In 1989, the Cavallottos expanded their holdings with an acquisition in Vignolo (also in Castiglione Falletto) for a second Riserva. Recent additions include Barolos from Villero and Rocche di Castiglione, which have yet to be released but show great promise from cask.

Classics Barolos from two generations.

Olivio’s sons, Alfio and Giuseppe, joined the estate in the early 1990s after completing their studies at the nearby Scuola Enologica di Alba, and now oversee winemaking. Their sister, Laura, manages the business aspects of the operation. Together, the three siblings continue to build on their family’s long-established reputation of excellence. 

The Cavallotto Barolos remain deeply tied to tradition, but are done in an enlightened style that makes use of more contemporary techniques in the cellar. Barolos are vinified in rotary fermenters on a gentle cycle, with a semi-submerged cap maceration. Aging is done exclusively in cask. Cavallotto bottles their very best lots as Riservas, while the rest of the lots are blended into the straight Barolo Bricco Boschis. The Riservas spend four to five years in cask.

The Cavallotto Riservas have always been quite potent and slow to mature. That point was reinforced in this tasting. All the wines were sourced from the Cavallotto family’s reserve, where all bottles are finished with wax, a time-consuming operation. It would be great to see Cavallotto use wax on the commercial releases of the Riservas, as the wines do seem to age especially well.

Pea Cappelletti; Morels, Ricotta.

DINNER MENU

First

Farro Salad; Roasted Squash, Basil, Parmesan, Pistachio

To Start: 2001 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe, 2000 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe

Our first flight looks at wines from two vintages that have been compared since the beginning. The 2000s received far more early press, but I have always favored the more vibrant 2001s. Twenty years later, both vintages have aged exceptionally well. I still prefer the 2001 for its greater energy, but the 2000 has also developed into an absolutely stellar wine.

Second

Pea Cappelletti; Morels, Ricotta

Looking Back at the 1990s: 1999 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe, 1997 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe, 1990 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe

Next, we move into the 1990s. The 1999 is fascinating to taste next to the 2000 and 2001, as it is part of a trio of vintages that are always fun to compare. I find the 1999 just a touch rustic next to its younger siblings. The 1997 and 1990, both from warm years, have aged exquisitely. Of course, “warm” is a relative term, as 1997 and 1990 would both be considered quite moderate by today’s standards!

Third

Agnolotti del Plin; Aged Pheasant, Black Truffle, Parmigiano

Classics: 2008 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 1.5L, 2004 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 1.5L, 1996 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe

This flight compares wines from cold, late-ripening years. A late harvest is considered ideal for Nebbiolo because ripening during the fall, with warm days and cold nights, helps fully ripen tannins, develop color and build aromatic presence. All three wines are superb. The 2008 is the most refined, the 1996 is the most powerful and the 2004 combines elements of both.

Fourth

Choice of Farm Chicken; Morels, Green Garlic, Black Truffle or Honey Lacquered Duck Breast; Poached Rhubarb, Parsnip

Modern-Day Icons: 2019 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe, 2016 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 1.5L, 2013 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe, 2010 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe

Like so many estates in Piedmont, Cavallotto continues to refine their approach. Recent vintages show a bit more finesse than the wines of 10-15 years ago, and quite a bit more elegance than the wines from the 1990s. Ideally, the 2019 needs more time in the cellar, but the 2016 and 2013 can be enjoyed now. 

Honey Lacquered Duck Breast; Poached Rhubarb, Parsnip.

Fifth

Chef’s Selection of Cheeses

Raiding the Cellar: 1985 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 1.5L, 1971 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe, 1967 Barolo Bricco Boschis

Our final flight delves deep into the Cavallotto cellar with the memorable 1971 and then the 1967 Barolo Bricco Boschis, the first vineyard-designate wine bottled by Cavallotto. The 1985 was disappointing, until we learned that we were tasting the Punta Marcello bottling, which was sent in error. That leaves me with a piece of homework: tasting the Vigna San Giuseppe, which I hope to report on soon. 

Tasting through bottles of the 1967 Barolo Bricco Boschis prior to service.

Overall, the wines showed exceptionally well. The only caveat is that these are Barolos very much built for the long haul. This was a great way to kick off the inaugural edition of Vinous Icons: Italy.

© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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