Cellar Favorite: Ioppa Ghemme 1970-1975

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 3, 2025

History, expression of place, passion and artisan family values run deep at Ioppa. The Ioppas trace their lineage back seven generations, all the way to the mid-1800s, a time when life in the countryside was much harsher than it is today. This mini-vertical from the 1970s was a very pleasant surprise at the end of a day tasting through current releases. I tasted the wines with Giorgio Ioppa, his son Andrea, and consulting oenologist Cristiano Garella.

Pristine, meticulously stored bottles from the family’s cellar once again show just how well Alto Piemonte wines can age. These Ghemmes from the 1970s are Nebbiolo, Vespolina and Bonarda, with bit more Vespolina than is the norm these days. The Nebbiolo was mostly sourced from Balsina, planted in 1968 on alluvial soils with a high percentage of sand and rocks. The first plantings employed the traditional maggiorina training system, a sort of open pergola with a high canopy designed to be easy to work while protecting fruit from hail and also leaving space in the ground for other crops, a reminder of the time not too long ago when farming mixed agriculture was the norm. Vespolina and Bonarda were sourced from older vines. Shortly thereafter, the family transitioned to a more modern row design at Balsina, quite novel at the time.

Grapes were destemmed and fermented in cement, with no temperature control and using ambient yeasts, as was the norm. Ghemme production guidelines during this era called for a blend of 75% Nebbiolo and as much as 25% Vespolina/Uva Rara. The wines were aged in 20 and 25HL cherry and Slavonian oak casks.

All the wines were exquisite. I especially loved the 1970 and 1972, the former for its power, the latter for its intensity in a vintage where noteworthy wines are exceptionally rare.

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