Vintage Madeira: 1808 Braheem Kassab “SS” Sercial Madeira

Continuing last week’s article on Vintage Ports from Raby Castle, I now move my attention to two exceptional Madeira wines poured at the same lunch.

The 1808 Braheem Kassab “SS” Sercial Madeira has a fascinating backstory. Braheem Kassab was a Syrian embroidery merchant who arrived on Madeira Island in 1916 and established his business there two years later. In 1931, the local Reid-Castron Bank was experiencing financial difficulties due to the Great Depression. Kassab agreed to lend money to the institution. Part of the loan’s security was a cache of 900 bottles that were stored by the Madeira Wine Association. Two years later, when the bank could not meet its financial obligations, Kassab called on his collateral and took ownership of the bottles, which were supplemented by further acquisitions from William Reid and Father Vale. Braheem himself was a teetotaler, so he poured his stock to guests visiting his abode, Quinta Vinsano, located between Funchal and Câmara de Lobos. In the 1970s, bottles began to be auctioned off, so despite the wines’ antiquity, there are still bottles “floating about,” so to speak. This bottle is light amber in color. It is supremely elegant on the nose with touches of peat and sea spray, not complex per se, yet delineated with a slight maltiness emerging with time. The palate is well balanced and quite saline, with hints of aniseed and desiccated orange peel. There is an openness to this 216-year-old wine and an edgy, hazelnut-tinged finish. Outstanding. 95

Another notable Madeira, the 1900 JBF  Verdelho Madeira came from demi-john. The initials stand for its owner, Jose B. Fernandez, whose house was once surrounded by vines. This is quite spirituous, with some volatile acidity on the nose and touches of dark berry fruit. Maybe this example is a little faded by time. The palate is altogether another matter—fresh, lively and citrus-like, with Satsuma, raisin and pain d’épices. It's very long on the finish, though perhaps it just misses some finesse. 93

I will add two more Madeira of notable antiquity, this one not from Raby Castle but opened at a private dinner in Beaune in October 2024. The 1878 Christopher’s Bual Very Fine Madeira has a delectable bouquet with grilled walnut, humidor and conspicuous VA, although that does not detract from its aromatic pleasure. This is not the most complex 19th-century Bual that I have encountered, though there remains plenty of vigor on the palate and a slightly rancio finish. A touch of dried orange peel and pain d’épices lingers on the aftertaste. 92

The 1860 Cossart Gordon Sercial Solera Madeira poured in Washington DC last May was bottled by Evans Marshall & CO. This comes across like a mature tawny on the nose, with scents of grilled walnut, smoke and a whiff of furniture wax mixed with rosewater. The palate has lovely balance and edgy acidity, showing orange rind, allspice, nutmeg and a bit of VA. The 1860 is not the most complex Sercial, but it continues to give pleasure. 90