Cellar Favorite: 1998 Grand Mayne

BY NEAL MARTIN | OCTOBER 20, 2025

The 1998 Grand Mayne probably marked my introduction to the Saint-Émilion estate in the salad days of my wine career. Proprietor Jean-Antoine Nony recently shared a bottle in Bordeaux. This might actually represent the best bottle I have encountered. Now at 27 years of age, which does make me feel rather old, the 1998 has mellowed on the nose like many Right Bank wines from this vintage. Red plum, cranberry and hints of cinnamon unfold on the nose, which has dispensed with the precocity it showed in its youth. The palate is beautifully balanced with just the right amount of acidity to keep it on its toes, still edging towards Pomerol towards the finish, with hints of black truffle and tobacco. This Grand Mayne is à point, though it will certainly give another decade of drinking pleasure. 93/Drink 2025-2035.

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