Cellar Favorite: 1990 Hennebelle

BY NEAL MARTIN | JUNE 16, 2025

My recent opinion piece on the crisis facing Bordeaux has reverberated around the region, even making a few winelovers depressed. Admittedly, the perspective is sobering, although I did make sure to include glimmers of hope, a way out of the situation. As if on cue, whilst writing that piece, a friend in Beaune poured a double magnum of 1990 Château Hennebelle blind. It was a pertinent reminder of the glories of Bordeaux, how a modest quarter-century-old Haut-Médoc could deliver such pleasure. This 11-hectare estate was founded in 1918 and is presently owned by the Bonastre family. The vineyard is planted with 50% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder split between Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

Showing minor bricking on the rim, the 1990 translates the warmth of that summer with lush cranberry and raspberry fruit, accented by light incense and violet aromas. Later, a hint of antique furniture emerges. The bouquet is not overly complex, yet it is so harmonious and focused. The palate has plenty of fruit, and the larger format has clearly slowed its evolution. It continues to dish out irresistible notes of red berry laced with tobacco and clove. The tannins are so fluid and caress the mouth, not unlike a Pinot Noir. It is just glorious! Let me ask: Which other wine region can do this, and how much would you pay for an equivalent Burgundy from the same vintage? 91/Drink 2025-2038.