2006 Weingut F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Unendlich

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MAY 28, 2019  

Pichler’s 2006 Riesling Smaragd Unendlich (the name translates to ‘unending’) is one of the most remarkable wines – white or red – I have tasted in a long time. The product of a year with a warm summer and August rains, the 2006 remains fresh, vibrant and wonderfully nuanced, its textural opulence and 15% alcohol notwithstanding. Apricot, tangerine, yellow flowers and smoke elongate the mid-palate and finish effortlessly in a Riesling that is both unctuous and incredibly vibrant, with a stunning interplay of depth from the presence of a portion of slightly dried grapes and the natural drive of Riesling in the Loibenberg, where this fruit was sourced in its entirety. Time in the glass brings out some of the natural evolution one expects to see in a wine of this age, and yet the 2006 remains fresh, light on its feet and wonderfully detailed. Special thanks to my colleague David Schildknecht for giving me the context to fully appreciate this wine. 96/Drink: 2019-2029.