1934 Cheval Blanc

BY NEAL MARTIN | MAY 13, 2019  

Naming my favorite Bordeaux château is always a difficult task, but if forced to choose my top five, I would unquestionably include the property that is Pomerol in all but classification: Cheval Blanc. The vintage that alerted me to the pedigree of Cheval Blanc’s old vintages is not the legendary 1947 nor the fabled 1921, but the 1934. This was several years after Albert Laussac Fourcaud passed away, having created a société civile between his children to ensure that the property would remain in his family. First poured at a remarkable tasting in London themed around that vintage, the 1934 Cheval Blanc lit up the evening, streets ahead of all the other ‘34s poured that night. I have been fortunate enough to taste it three or four more times since then. The one I shall not forget is a magnum that came from the late John Avery’s personal collection and had never been moved.

The 1934 Cheval Blanc has a deep mahogany color. The bouquet is hypnotic; scents of cedar and mint infuse fruit that leans toward the Left Bank, implying that there was a good percentage of Cabernet in the blend. The palate is beautifully balanced, displaying a fine seam of acidity, veins of orange zest and a black currant pastille note toward the riveting finish. This is a magnificent wine, and bottles with sound provenance will still give pleasure. Profound. 99/Drink 2019-2030.