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Poetic License: Siran 1920-1929
BY NEAL MARTIN | OCTOBER 10, 2023
The invitation came from Margaux:
To taste wines made a century ago.
Siran was the destination,
For this one-off dégustation.
Eight bottles fetched from their cellar,
Mirrors of that season’s weather.
Nineteen-twenty to twenty-nine
Of time-bending Bordeaux wine.
Just two years were MIA,
Never made? Who can say?
Alive or dead? Dry or spry?
I’d soon found out with Edouard Miailhe.
The wines are poured one by one,
Each demanding full attention.
Never still. Always changing.
In the glass, ever-mutating.
Wines like these evoke emotion,
Claret maturing in slow motion.
It seemed immoral, against the law,
To give each wine a banal score
And though words convey my feelings here,
Numbers make their quality clear.
I hope, dear reader, you don’t mind,
I wrote this piece with words that rhyme.
But I hope, by now, that you’ve divined,
This special night was one of a kind.
© 2023, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.
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- 2024
- Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1945 Troplong Mondot (Nov 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1924 Gruaud Larose (Oct 2024)
- The Misunderstood Margaux: Marquis de Terme 1947-2021 (Oct 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1985 Cheval Blanc (Sep 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1961 & 2012 Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1928-1998 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Aug 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1949 and 1959 Pape Clément (Aug 2024)
- Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)
- The Minnow: Sigalas Rabaud 1975-2019 (Jul 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1971 Latour & 1971 Les Forts de Latour (Jul 2024)
- Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1949 Pontet-Canet (Jun 2024)
- Desert Island Dinner: 1961 Pomerol in Excelsis (Jun 2024)
- A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)
- The Bordeaux Soundtrack: Icons at Legacy Records (May 2024)
- Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur (April 2024)
- The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023 (Apr 2024)
- Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1993 Domaine de Chevalier (Apr 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1990 Latour à Pomerol (Apr 2024)
- An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)
- Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1948 Coufran (Mar 2024)
- 2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1973 La Fleur-Pétrus (Feb 2024)
- 2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2024 New Releases (Feb 2024)
- Come On Aline: Château Coutet 1943-2017 (Feb 2024)
- Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 1981 & 1992 Le Pin (Jan 2024)
- Cellar Favorite: 2010 Château Canon (Jan 2024)
- 2023
- The Quiet One: 1962 Burgundy & Bordeaux (Dec 2023)
- Cellar Favorite: 1899, 1947 & 1970 Yquem (Dec 2023)
- Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)
- Cellar Favorite: 1890, 1990, 2005 & 2015 Branaire-Ducru (Nov 2023)
- Cellar Favorite: 1981 Petrus (Oct 2023)
- Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)
- Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)
- Margaux Focus 1: Château Durfort-Vivens (Aug 2023)
- A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)
- Cellar Favorite: 1865 Giscours (Aug 2023)
- Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)
- Cellar Favorite: 1989 Doisy-Védrines (Jul 2023)
- Going Back to My Roots: Putting Liber Pater In Context (Jun 2023)
- Cellar Favorite: 2020 Château d’Yquem (Jun 2023)
- Moving On: Lafon-Rochet 1955-2017 (Jun 2023)
- You’re Unbelievable: Bordeaux 2022 (May 2023)
- 2022 Bordeaux En Primeur: Balance Imbalance (May 2023)
- Book Excerpt: The Complete Bordeaux Vintage Guide 1870-2020 (Apr 2023)
- Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)
- Not Classed, but Classy: Haut-Bergeron 1961-2019 (Mar 2023)
- Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2023 Releases (Mar 2023)
- Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)
- Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)
- Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)
- Cellar Favorite: 1986 Pape Clément (Feb 2023)
- Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)
- 2022
- Cellar Favorite: 1943 Petrus (Nov 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: 1928-2011 Lascombes (Oct 2022)
- Bending Rules: Les Carmes Haut-Brion 1955-2019 (Oct 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: 1964 La Tour Figeac (Oct 2022)
- Dive In: Cantenac Brown 1978-2018 (Oct 2022)
- Looking Back: 2007 Sauternes (Oct 2022)
- A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)
- Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)
- Memories Tumble Out: Pichon Baron 1937-1990 (Aug 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: 1940 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Aug 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: 1920 Clarets (Aug 2022)
- Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)
- Bring Out Your “Dead”: Pichon-Lalande 1957-2013 (Aug 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: Lune d’Or 2012-2020 (Aug 2022)
- Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)
- Bols Blue to Bordeaux: Barde-Haut, Clos l’Église & Poesia (Jun 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: 1978 Pavie (Jun 2022)
- Fronsac Royalty: Château de La Dauphine 2001-2018 (Jun 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: 1946 Figeac (May 2022)
- Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)
- 2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)
- This Is Not Just Another Winery: Haut-Bailly 1964-2018 (Apr 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: 1966 & 1990 Clinet (Apr 2022)
- Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)
- The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: 1921 Siran (Apr 2022)
- The Wines That Shaped My Life (Mar 2022)
- Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)
- Château Latour: 2022 New Releases - Neal Martin (Mar 2022)
- The Judgement of Clapham Junction (Mar 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: 1986 Grand-Puy-Lacoste (Feb 2022)
- 2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)
- Branas Grand Poujeaux 2002-2019 (Feb 2022)
- Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: 1967 Climens (Feb 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2022 New Releases (Jan 2022)
- Pierre, Denis & Jean-Jacques: Doisy-Daëne & L’Extravagance 1942-2013 (Jan 2022)
- Cellar Favorite: 1952 Latour (Réserve des Proprietaires) (Jan 2022)
- 2021
- A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: 1984 Château Margaux (Dec 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: 1995 Haut-Brion (Nov 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: 1949 Malartic-Lagravière (Nov 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaines Delon: Recent Cellar Releases (Oct 2021)
- Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)
- Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)
- Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)
- Left Bank on the Right: Jean Faure 2007–2018 (Sep 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: 2001 Léoville Las-Cases (Aug 2021)
- So Chic, So Listrac: Fourcas Hosten (Jul 2021)
- Two + Two = Trouble (Jul 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: 2003 Larrivaux (Jul 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: 1996 Lynch-Moussas (Jun 2021)
- 2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)
- Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)
- His Father’s Son: Grand Mayne 1955-2011 (May 2021)
- 2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)
- Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan (Mar 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2021 New Releases (Mar 2021)
- The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: 1928 Calon-Ségur (Feb 2021)
- Cellar Favorite: 1967 Château d’Yquem Sauternes Premier Grand Cru (Jan 2021)
- Choose Wisely: Château Sérilhan 2008–2017 (Jan 2021)
- 2020
- Lagrange 1959-2015 (Dec 2020)
- Saturday Morning: Larcis Ducasse 1945-2017 (Oct 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1919 Montrose (Sep 2020)
- 2018 Château d'Yquem (Sep 2020)
- Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)
- The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)
- Delivering Where It Counts: Meyney 1971–2017 (Jul 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 2010 Haut-Bailly (Jun 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 2011 Le Pin (Jun 2020)
- 2019 Bordeaux: A Long, Strange Trip (Jun, 2020)
- Uncertain Smile: Bordeaux 2019 (Jun 2020)
- Château Siran 1918-2008 (Jun 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1947 Château Trotanoy (Jun 2020)
- Hopes and Dreams: Canon Chaigneau 1998-2019 (May 2020)
- Six Decades of Pavie-Macquin: 1928-2018 (May 2020)
- Remember, Remember: 1945 Bordeaux (May 2020)
- No Relation: Clos Saint-Martin 1964-2017 (Apr 2020)
- Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 2012 Château Latour (Apr 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1931 d’Yquem (Mar 2020)
- In Good Taste: Branaire-Ducru 1928-2013 (Mar 2020)
- 2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1949 Château Figeac (Feb 2020)
- Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)
- Cellar Favorite: 1924 Château Filhot (Jan 2020)
- 2019
- Cellar Favorite: 1939 & 1950 Cheval Blanc (Dec 2019)
- Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1970 La Tour Haut-Brion (Nov 2019)
- The Future’s Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Nov 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1990 Château Latour (Nov 2019)
- A Century - Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)
- Remembering Jean-Bernard Delmas (Oct 2019)
- The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)
- The Other Side of Bordeaux (Sep 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1947 Carbonnieux Blanc (Sep 2019)
- A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)
- Songs Full of Light - Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1906-2018 (Aug 2019)
- Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1904 & 1948 Langoa-Barton (Aug 2019)
- Vinous Table: TentaziOni, Bordeaux, France (Jul 2019)
- Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)
- "G" Acte 1 to 8 (Jul 2019)
- Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1970 Gallais Bellevue (Jun 2019)
- Finding Filhot: Filhot 1935-2015 (May 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1934 Cheval Blanc (May 2019)
- Bordeaux 2018: Back in Black (Apr 2019)
- The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2019 New Releases (Apr 2019)
- An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015 (Apr 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1988 Ausone (Apr 2019)
- Setting Sail - Malartic-Lagravière 1916 - 2013 (Apr 2019)
- What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)
- A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)
- Outsider Looking In: Sociando-Mallet 1982-2015 (March 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 1869, 1879 & 1893 d’Yquem (March 2019)
- Cellar Favorites: 1953 & 1975 l’Angélus (Feb 2019)
- Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)
- The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)
- Cellar Favorite: 2005 Larcis Ducasse (Jan 2019)
- 2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)
- Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)
- Cellar Favorites: Coutet Cuvée Madame (Jan 2019)
- 2018
- Cellar Favorites: 1945, 1966 & 1982 Gruaud Larose (Dec 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1970 Château de Fieuzal Rouge (Dec 2018)
- Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1956 Château Léoville Barton (Oct 2018)
- Where Value Lies: First Look At 2016 Bordeaux (Oct 2018)
- Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)
- Sharing Alike: Petrus 1947 - 2015 (Sep 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1906 Château d’Arche Crème de Tête (Aug 2018)
- Aiming High: Haut-Condissas 1997–2015 (Aug 2018)
- The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 (Jul 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1900 Château Margaux Deuxième Vin (Jul 2018)
- Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)
- Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)
- In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)
- Cellar Favorites: Laville Haut-Brion (Jul 2018)
- Bordeaux In Excelsis (Jun 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1955 Château Latour (Jun 2018)
- Last Man Standing: Bel-Air Marquis d’Aligre (May 2018)
- A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)
- Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)
- 2017 Bordeaux: The Heart of the Matter (May 2018)
- 2017 Bordeaux : Au cœur de l'affaire (May 2018)
- The F-Word: Bordeaux Left Bank 2017 (May 2018)
- The F-Word: Bordeaux 2017 (May 2018)
- The F-Word: Bordeaux Right Bank 2017 (May 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1947 Cos d’Estournel (Apr 2018)
- Mother & Child: La Lagune 1962 – 2015 (Apr 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 2006 Tertre Rôteboeuf (Apr 2018)
- A Beautiful Stay: Beau-Séjour Bécot 1970-2015 (Apr 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1973 Pétrus (Apr 2018)
- Vinous Table: TentaziOni, Bordeaux, France (Apr 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: Latest Releases (Apr 2018)
- Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)
- Here We Go Again: Value Bordeaux 2015 (Mar 2018)
- Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)
- Cellar Favorite: 1990 Troplong Mondot (Mar 2018)
- 2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story... (Feb 2018)
- The Magician’s Fool: 1950s Bordeaux (Feb 2018)
- Juxtapose With You: Pétrus, Lafleur & Le Pin (Feb 2018)
- 2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)
- 2017
- Remembering Bob Wilmers (Dec 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 2000 Smith Haut Lafitte (Dec 2017)
- Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2017 (Nov 2017)
- Remembering Patrick Maroteaux (Nov 2017)
- Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)
- Cellar Favorites: Château Latour – 2017 Library Releases (May 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 1983 Château Gruaud-Larose (May 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 1986 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey (May 2017)
- 2016 Bordeaux: It’s Now or Never, Baby (Apr 2017)
- 2016 Bordeaux: 30 Top Values (Apr 2017)
- Larcis Ducasse Retrospective: 1945-2014 (Mar 2017)
- 2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)
- 2016
- Cellar Favorite: 1996 Château d’Yquem (Sep 2016)
- Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)
- Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)
- Remembering Paul Pontallier (Mar 2016)
- Cellar Favorites: 1996 & 1985 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Feb 2016)
- 2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)
- 2015
- 2005 Bordeaux with Tanzer & Galloni (Nov 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: 1982 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (May 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: 1982 Château Margaux (May 2015)
- 2014 Bordeaux – Vintage Highlights (May 2015)
- 2014 Bordeaux – Les Découvertes: Under the Radar Gems and Sleepers (May 2015)
- 2014 Bordeaux: It Ain’t Over Till It’s Over (Apr 2015)
- Le Miracle de Haut-Brion (Dec 2014)
- 2014
- Cristal and Icons from Piedmont & Bordeaux (Oct 2014)
- 2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)
- Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)
- 2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)
- Vinous Table: L’Univerre, Bordeaux (Apr 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Pavie Macquin (Mar 2014)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)
- 2013
- The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)
- Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (Apr 2013)
- 2012
- 2011 Bordeaux: Sauternes (Aug 2012)
- 2011 Bordeaux: Dry Whites (Aug 2012)
- The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)
- The Bordeaux Effect (Jun 2012)
- 1982 Bordeaux at Age 30 (May 2012)
- Bordeaux 2011: Tales of Tannins and Terroir (May 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Château Magdelaine (Mar 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Château Trotanoy (Mar 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau du Tertre (Jan 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Giscours (Jan 2012)
- 2011
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)
- Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)
- Bordeaux 2010: The Dry Wines (Aug 2011)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)
- The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)
- Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters... (May 2011)
- 2010
- 2007 Bordeaux : Don't Hate Me Because I'm Overpriced (Jul 2010)
- Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)
- 2008 Sauternes and Barsacs (May 2010)
- 2009
- Bordeaux '08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)
- The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)
- 2008
- 2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)
- 2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)
- 2007
- 2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)
- 2006
- 2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)
- The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)
- 2005
- 2003 and 2002 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2005)
- The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)
- 2004
- Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)
- The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)
- 2003
- 2001 Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2003)
- The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)
- 2002
- 1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)
- 1999 Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2002)
- 2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)
- 2001
- 1999 and 1998 Sauternes (Jul 2001)
- 2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)
- 2000
- 1998 and 1997 Sauternes (Jul 2000)
- 1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)
- 1999
- 1997 and 1996 Sauternes (Jul 1999)
- 1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)
- 1998
- Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)
- 1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)
- 1996
- 1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)
- 1993
- The 1990 Clarets...To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)