1921 Yquem

After 25 years, I finally re-tasted one of the legendary vintages of Yquem. I have told this story before, but it is worth retelling. When I started out in my professional career in the wine trade, around 1998 or 1999, Mirabelle in Mayfair was the place to be seen. It was the scene of many a bibulous dinner—never before or since have I dined at a restaurant that conjured such an electric atmosphere. On this occasion, I was with a couple of colleagues. Who else but Madonna, then riding high after the success of her “Ray of Light” album, sat two tables down. I was a bit of a fan. Famous stars were never disturbed at Mirabelle, so I just stole some glances. Like many icons, I remember her looking much more petite than expected. Nevertheless, she radiated star power. Toward the end of the evening, our friendly sommelier gave us a glass of Sauternes that shimmered with a golden hue. He had just decanted a 1921 Yquem for the Queen of Pop. She wouldn’t notice. Patently, a woman of good taste, we raised a glass and then imbibed this transcendental elixir.

Nowadays, the 1921 Yquem is an extremely rare vintage. According to their website, which I thoroughly recommend perusing as it offers a wealth of information, the season was a precursor for those seen today with global warming, one marked by “unrelenting drought conditions.” Thankfully, 38 mm of rain on September 1 incited botrytis development, and the harvest was prolonged, with potential alcohol levels varying from 14° to 30°. The wine was purportedly extremely rich from the outset.

Twenty-four years after Ms. Ciccone’s generosity, even if she was oblivious to it, another bottle was served at Épure restaurant in Hong Kong at a dinner themed around Bordeaux from the 1920s. Deep amber in color, the 1921 Yquem has a magnificent bouquet with marmalade, quince and aniseed. Later, there are glimpses of juniper and a touch of Aszú, all delivered with breathtaking delineation. The palate is perfectly balanced and obviously fully mature at over a century old, yet, it retains remarkable tension that counterbalances the concentration. Botrytis seems packed into this Sauternes and is only slowly being abraded by time. Clementine, tangerine and marmalade build toward the viscous finish that might be a tad drier than before. Otherwise, this is a joy from start to finish. 98/Drink 2024-2044.

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