I rarely write about Italian wine. It’s not my territory. I leave that to Antonio Galloni and Eric Guido. But I was so enraptured by one bottle that had been purchased upon release that it would be rude not to write about it. 

The 1990 Barbaresco Riserva Asili from Bruno Giacosa is magnificent. Now, at 34 years of age, it presents a captivating bouquet of raspberry, allspice, melted asphalt and freshly shaved black truffle. It has a melted quality and is completely harmonious, actually gaining precision with each swirl of the glass. Frankly, I could have spent the entire evening just inhaling its intoxicating perfume. The palate is perfectly balanced with finely chiseled tannins. It’s amazingly well focused with impressive mineralité and unerring weightlessness. There is immense substance and fabulous poise, shimmering red fruit, velvety texture and an extraordinarily persistent finish, which makes it feel like a bit of Piedmont sunshine is lingering inside your mouth. This is the best Barbaresco I have ever tasted. 98/Drink 2024-2044.