1949 and 1959 Pape Clément

BY NEAL MARTIN | AUGUST 05, 2024

Mature vintages of this Pessac-Léognan stalwart are frustratingly elusive. Perhaps due to its exclusion from the 1855 Classification, outside of Haut-Brion, the appellation’s wines did not have the kudos of their contemporaries in Pauillac or Saint-Julien. Consequently, a far greater proportion were consumed within the first decade of their lives. That’s a pity because they mature as well as any Bordeaux. Like many Bordeaux estates, Pape Clément suffered during the 1930s and the war. Under owner Paul Montagne, it was not until the 1950s that renovation was completed and the wines could reach their potential. Might that explain why the 1959 Pape Clément outshone the 1949 when served at a Bordeaux-themed dinner in Hong Kong last September? Both bottles came from the same cellar.

The 1949 Pape Clément is the oldest vintage I have tasted from the estate. It has quite a pungent nose of black plums mixed with seaweed and a powerful menthol scent. I appreciate the marine influence here, although it is missing the pixelation that is a leitmotif of this vintage. The palate is tannic, with what feels like a lot of extraction (I wonder if the temperature ran a little high during fermentation?). It feels solid and obdurate, and though it has certainly held up well, it needs more freshness and transparency. There may be better bottles. 88/Drink 2024-2029.

The 1959 Pape Clément has a gorgeous bouquet with rose petals and incense infusing the mélange of red and black fruit, hints of mahogany antique bureau and black olive. It blossoms in the glass. Thankfully, the palate matches the aromatics. Wonderful balance with just a light splash of soy. This has the backbone of the 1949, yet it is imbued with much more finesse and amplitude. More flesh is extant, a fine thread of acidity that stitches together the harmonious finish. This epitomizes the beauty of mature Pessac-Léognan and, unequivocally, one of the finest vintages of Pape Clément that I have tasted from this era. 95/Drink 2024-2038.

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