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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild
Mouton Rothschild is one of the renowned five first growths of Bordeaux, although in the classification of 1855 it had been placed at a lower level, as the top of the second growths. But thanks to the intrinsic quality of the wine and then-owner Baron Philippe de Rothschild's incessant work aimed at rectifying what he and many others felt had been a mistake, Mouton was elevated to first growth status in 1973--to date the only change that has ever been made to the original classification.It is generally felt that Mouton's placement among the second growths, at a time when prices of first and second growths were not too far apart, was mainly due to the fact that the estate, though it made exceptional wine, had limited history up to that point. In fact, there is little mention of Mouton in 18th century documents, while Châteaux Latour and Margaux, for example, were frequently mentioned. Baron Philippe deserves to be remembered for many other achievements as well, not the least of which was helping to convince the other owners of first growths to sell their wine only in bottle, rather than sell it in bulk to négociants, who would then bottle it themselves. Thanks in large part to his pioneering efforts and vision, château bottling became compulsory by law in 1972.
Today nobody questions the fact that Mouton is a very deserving first growth, with wines like the 1982 and the 2006 arguably the best of the first growths in their respective vintages. It is always a quintessential Pauillac: long-aging and powerful yet refined, often characterized by an opulent texture that is Mouton's signature. The estate and the wine have always been associated with a strong presence of cabernet sauvignon in the final blend, while cabernet franc, which was deemed to be of good enough quality for the grand vin only one year out of three, has been uprooted and replaced with cabernet sauvignon. There are also plans to replant some merlot in the lower part of the plateau, where there are fresher soils and more water availability, as this variety is more sensitive to water stress in hot years. The estate also plans to put in a little more petit verdot. Over the years there have also been winemaking changes: for example, today during the activity of the yeasts, the temperature never goes above 30°C and the wine stays on its skins for only about two weeks, depending on the characteristics of the particular vintage.
As is the case at all estates with centuries of history, wine quality at Mouton has had its ups and downs over the years, but things have never been better since the arrival from Branaire-Ducru of the talented Philippe Dhalluin, named general director in 2003. He followed in the footsteps of Patrice Léon, the long-time winemaker at Mouton (to ease the transition, the two men worked together in 2003). Today, Dhalluin oversees a large team featuring technical directors, winemakers and viticulturalists who work at the various Rothschild properties (Mouton Rothschild also owns Bordeaux estates Clerc Milon and d'Armailhac, as well as Almaviva in Chile and Opus One in Napa Valley).
Eric Tourbier has been technical director at Mouton since 2001, although he has been at Mouton since 1989. Interestingly, Tourbier believes that not enough is said about Mouton's terroir. "We have been studying Mouton's terroir for years, and are beginning to understand it more and more, with the aim of making better and better wines. It's a little like music: if you can't read it, then you can't really understand it." For example, the importance of the water table at Mouton has only recently been understood. "Today we know that Mouton rests on a water table that follows the undulations of the soil and subsoil: on the plateau at Carruades water delivered to the roots is very regular and the water table is not too high, whereas elsewhere on the property, when it rains there are large variations in water supply to the roots. This is typical of the less outstanding vineyard parcels, where the water supply either rises or falls too fast, which is not an ideal situation. Instead, the auto-regulation of water delivery to the roots--just enough at just the right time--is a characteristic of all the greatest terroirs." For Tourbier, knowing information such as the location of the water table in each portion of Mouton's vineyards allows for more accurate predictions as to where the best grapes might come from each year.
The following vertical tasting was conducted in May 2011 at the château with Erick Tourbier on hand (Philippe Dhalluin was away at the time); Tourbier was the source for the technical data cited below. I was extremely impressed by the consistently very high level of the wines. Looking over the results, I was tempted to say that, at least based on this tasting, Mouton does very well in years ending with the number six. Tourbier laughed at the remark and noted: "You know, after all, Mouton has six letters!"
Show all the wines (sorted by vintage)
--Ian D'Agata
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- New Wines from California's Central Coast (Nov 2011)
- Cava for All Seasons (Nov 2011)
- New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part Two (Nov 2011)
- Top New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2011)
- A Contrarian View on Decanting (Nov 2011)
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)
- Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)
- Alba When It Sizzles (Oct 2011)
- The 2011 Cape Winemakers Guild Auction (Sep 2011)
- 2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)
- The Best New Releases from Australia, Part Two (Sep 2011)
- Best New Wines from Spain (Sep 2011)
- New Zealand Sauvignons and Pinots (Sep 2011)
- It Doesn't Have To Be Rocket Science (Sep 2011)
- The Best New White Wines from Italy's Northeast (Sep 2011)
- Some Don't Like It Hot (Aug 2011)
- Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)
- Bordeaux 2010: The Dry Wines (Aug 2011)
- Annual Rose Roundup (Jul 2011)
- Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir (Jul 2011)
- Chablis 2010 and 2009 (Jul 2011)
- The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)
- 2006 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2011)
- New Releases from Australia, Part One (Jul 2011)
- Cool Wines for Dog Days (Jul 2011)
- Good Readers Drink Better Wines (Jun 2011)
- Vertical Tasting of Arietta Red Wine H Block Hudson Vineyards Napa Valley (Jun 2011)
- The Rare Wine Company's Historic Series Madeiras (Jun 2011)
- Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters... (May 2011)
- Vertical Tasting of Il Poggione's Brunello di Montalcino (May 2011)
- New Releases from Chile (May 2011)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2011)
- Wines Born With the Power of Speech (May 2011)
- Reading the Label (Apr 2011)
- 2009 and 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape (Mar 2011)
- March 2011 - Second Tuesday (Mar 2011)
- New Releases from Southern Italy (Mar 2011)
- 2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)
- Focus on South Africa (Mar 2011)
- February 2011 - Second Tuesday (Feb 2011)
- Focus on Argentina (Jan 2011)
- Germany 2009: Everybody's Darling (Jan 2011)
- 2009 Red Burgundy (Jan 2011)
- 2009 and 2008 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2011)
- January 2011 of January 2011 (Jan 2011)
- 2010
- Decemeber 2010 of December 2010 (Dec 2010)
- New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)
- The Best New Releases from Spain, Part 2 (Nov 2010)
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2010)
- Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2010)
- Alsace Update (Nov 2010)
- New Zealand Sauvignon and Pinot (Sep 2010)
- White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Sep 2010)
- Focus on the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2010)
- Oregon Pinot Noir (Jul 2010)
- New Releases from Australia (Jul 2010)
- 2007 Bordeaux : Don't Hate Me Because I'm Overpriced (Jul 2010)
- Chianti, Vino Nobile and Super-Tuscans (Jul 2010)
- Chablis 2009 and 2008 (Jul 2010)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2010)
- 2008 Sauternes and Barsacs (May 2010)
- Best New Wines from the Central Loire (May 2010)
- Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)
- 2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)
- New Releases from Chile (Mar 2010)
- Focus on Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc (Mar 2010)
- The Best New Wines from Argentina (Jan 2010)
- 2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)
- Germany 2008: Crisp, Pure and Refreshing (Jan 2010)
- 2009
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2009)
- Austria 2008: Rising to the Challenge (Nov 2009)
- Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2009)
- New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2009)
- New Zealand Sauvignon and Pinot (Sep 2009)
- New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2009)
- 2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2009)
- Ian D'Agata on the Best Wines of Central Italy (Jul 2009)
- New Releases from Australia, Part 1 (Jul 2009)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2009)
- Chablis 2008 and 2007 (Jul 2009)
- 2004 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2009)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2009)
- Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir (May 2009)
- The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)
- Bordeaux '08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)
- Focus on South Africa (Mar 2009)
- The Best New Wines from Chile (Mar 2009)
- 2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)
- Joel Payne on Germany 2007 (Jan 2009)
- 2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)
- The Best New Wines from Argentina (Jan 2009)
- 2008
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2008)
- Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2008)
- Alsace 2007 and 2006 (Nov 2008)
- New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)
- Austria 2007: Light, Fresh and Classic (Nov 2008)
- New Zealand Sauvignon and Pinot (Sep 2008)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2008)
- 2007 and 2006 White Burgundies (Sep 2008)
- New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2008)
- 2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)
- New Releases from Australia, Part 1 (Jul 2008)
- 2003 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2008)
- The Best Wines of Southern Italy (Jul 2008)
- 2007 and 2006 Chablis (Jul 2008)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2008)
- Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir (May 2008)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2008)
- 2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)
- The Best New Wines from Chile (Mar 2008)
- The Best Whites from Italy's Northeast (Mar 2008)
- 2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)
- Germany 2006: An Unusual Auslese Year (Jan 2008)
- Focus on Argentina (Jan 2008)
- 2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)
- 2007
- Austria '06: The Year of Gruner Veltliner (Nov 2007)
- Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2007)
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2007)
- New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)
- 2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)
- New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2007)
- New Zealand Pinot and Sauvignon (Sep 2007)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2007)
- Alsace's 2005 Vintage (Jul 2007)
- New Releases from Australia, Part 1 (Jul 2007)
- The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2007)
- Ian D'Agata on Chianti, Carmignano and Montepulciano (Jul 2007)
- 2006 and 2005 Chablis (Jul 2007)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2007)
- 2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)
- Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir (May 2007)
- 2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)
- Focus on South Africa (Mar 2007)
- Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume and Muscadet (Mar 2007)
- New Releases from California (Jan 2007)
- Joel Payne on Germany 2005 (Jan 2007)
- 2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)
- 2006
- 2004 Alsace Wines (Nov 2006)
- Peter Moser on Austria 2005 (Nov 2006)
- 2005 and 2004 Chablis (Nov 2006)
- Champagne Update (Nov 2006)
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2006)
- New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2006)
- Focus on California's Central Coast (Sep 2006)
- The Best New Wines from Spain (Sep 2006)
- 2004 White Burgundies (Sep 2006)
- New Releases from Australia (Jul 2006)
- 2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2006)
- 2005 White Burgundies (Jul 2006)
- 2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)
- The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)
- Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir (May 2006)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2006)
- 2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)
- Focus on Northeast Italy (Mar 2006)
- The Best New Wines from Chile (Mar 2006)
- New Releases from Portugal (Mar 2006)
- Germany '04: A Classic Spatlese Vintage (Jan 2006)
- 2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)
- New Releases from California (Jan 2006)
- 2003 Vintage Ports (Jan 2006)
- 2005
- Austria 2004:A Viticulturist's Year (Nov 2005)
- Focus on Argentina (Nov 2005)
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2005)
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)
- Australia, Part Two (Sep 2005)
- 2004 and 2003 White Burgundies (Sep 2005)
- The Best New Wines From Spain (Sep 2005)
- The Best New Wines from New Zealand (Sep 2005)
- Focus on California's Central Coast (Jul 2005)
- New Releases from Australia (Jul 2005)
- 2003 and 2002 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2005)
- 2004 and 2003 Chablis (Jul 2005)
- New Releases from Southern Italy (Jul 2005)
- Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir (May 2005)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2005)
- The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)
- Focus on South Africa (Mar 2005)
- 2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)
- Best New Releases from California (Jan 2005)
- 2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)
- Germany 2003: Extreme Riesling (Jan 2005)
- 2004
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)
- New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)
- Austria's Surprising 2003s (Nov 2004)
- New Releases from Washington State (Nov 2004)
- 2003 and 2002 White Burgundies (Sep 2004)
- 1999 Brunello di Montalcino (Sep 2004)
- Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)
- The Best New Wines From Spain (Sep 2004)
- Best of the Alto-Adige and Trentino (Jul 2004)
- 2003 and 2002 Chablis (Jul 2004)
- New Wines from the Central Coast (Jul 2004)
- New Releases from Argentina (Jul 2004)
- Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)
- The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)
- The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)
- Focus on California's North Coast (May 2004)
- Languedoc/Roussillon 2001 (Mar 2004)
- 2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)
- 2002 Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs (Mar 2004)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 2004)
- Germany's Charming 2002 Vintage (Jan 2004)
- 2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)
- Focus on the Maconnais (Jan 2004)
- New Releases from California (Jan 2004)
- 2003
- Best New Wines from Washington State (Nov 2003)
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)
- Alsace 2002 and 2001 (Nov 2003)
- Austria's Amiable 2002s (Nov 2003)
- 1999 Tokaji Aszu Releases (Sep 2003)
- The Best New Wines from New Zealand (Sep 2003)
- New Releases from Southern Italy (Sep 2003)
- Focus on Brunello di Montalcino (Sep 2003)
- New Releases from Australia (Jul 2003)
- 2002 and 2001 Chablis (Jul 2003)
- 2001 Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2003)
- The Best New Wines From Spain (Jul 2003)
- New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)
- The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)
- Focus on California (May 2003)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 2003)
- Focus on South Africa (Mar 2003)
- 2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)
- 2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)
- Austria 2001: Crazy, Often Remarkable (Jan 2003)
- 2000 Vintage Ports (Jan 2003)
- Dolcetto and Barbera (Jan 2003)
- 2002
- New Releases from California (Nov 2002)
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2002)
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 2002)
- Germany 2001: Golden October? (Nov 2002)
- The Best New Wines from New Zealand (Sep 2002)
- 1987 California Cabernets (Sep 2002)
- New Releases from Washington State (Sep 2002)
- 2001 and 2000 White Burgundies (Sep 2002)
- New Releases from Australia (Jul 2002)
- 1999 Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2002)
- 1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)
- 2001 and 2000 Chablis (Jul 2002)
- New Languedoc/Roussillon Releases (Jul 2002)
- 1997 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2002)
- 1999 Vintage Port (Jul 2002)
- Focus on California (May 2002)
- Best New Table Wines from Portugal (May 2002)
- 2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 2002)
- 2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)
- The Best New Wines from South Africa (Mar 2002)
- 2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)
- Spain Revisited (Jan 2002)
- Germany 2000: Rot and Redemption (Jan 2002)
- 1999 and 1998 Chianti (Jan 2002)
- 2001
- Austria 2000: Extreme, Often Excellent (Nov 2001)
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)
- The Best New Wines from Spain (Nov 2001)
- Current Releases from California (Nov 2001)
- Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2001)
- 2000 and 1999 White Burgundies (Sep 2001)
- Current Releases from New Zealand (Sep 2001)
- The Forecast for Tokaj (Sep 2001)
- New Releases from Washington State (Sep 2001)
- Daniel Thomases on Southern Italy (Jul 2001)
- 1999 and 1998 Sauternes (Jul 2001)
- Alsace 2000 and 1999 (Jul 2001)
- Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2001)
- Best New Wines from Argentina (May 2001)
- 2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)
- Focus on California (May 2001)
- Mea Culpa (Mar 2001)
- New Releases from Chile (Mar 2001)
- 1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 2001)
- Best New Table Wines from Portugal (Mar 2001)
- Germany 1999: Generous to a Fault (Jan 2001)
- 1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)
- The Best New Wines from South Africa (Jan 2001)
- Focus on Barbera and Dolcetto (Jan 2001)
- 2000
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2000)
- Austria Outstanding, Abundant 1999s (Nov 2000)
- Current California Releases (Nov 2000)
- Champagne for Everyone (Nov 2000)
- Best New Releases from Spain (Sep 2000)
- New Releases from Washington State (Sep 2000)
- Current Releases from New Zealand (Sep 2000)
- 1999 and 1998 White Burgundies (Sep 2000)
- Two Vertical Tastings (Sep 2000)
- Focus on the Languedoc (Jul 2000)
- The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2000)
- Daniel Thomases on Tuscany (Jul 2000)
- 1998 and 1997 Sauternes (Jul 2000)
- Focus on California (May 2000)
- 1997 Vintage Ports (May 2000)
- 1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)
- The Best of South Africa (Mar 2000)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 2000)
- 1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)
- New Releases from Chile and Argentina (Mar 2000)
- Best New Releases From Italy (Jan 2000)
- 1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)
- Germany Improbable 1998s (Jan 2000)
- 1999
- Austria's Astonishingly Successful 1998s (Nov 1999)
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)
- The Best of Rioja and Ribera del Duero (Nov 1999)
- Current Releases from California (Nov 1999)
- 1998 and 1997 White Burgundies (Sep 1999)
- The Best Wines from Central Italy: Umbria, the Marches, Latium (Sep 1999)
- The Best from Mediterranean France (Sep 1999)
- Best New Wines from Washington State (Sep 1999)
- Today Tokaji (Sep 1999)
- Alsace 1998 and 1997 (Jul 1999)
- 1997 and 1996 Sauternes (Jul 1999)
- Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)
- Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 1999)
- Focus on California (May 1999)
- 1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)
- The Best New Wines from Portugal (Mar 1999)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 1999)
- 1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)
- Germany 1997: Easy-Access Ripeness (Jan 1999)
- Best New Releases From Italy (Jan 1999)
- 1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)
- 1998
- A Tasting of the 1991 Northern Rhones (Nov 1998)
- Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 1998)
- Current Releases from California (Nov 1998)
- Best New Wines from the Loire Valley (Nov 1998)
- Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)
- Best New Wines from South Africa (Sep 1998)
- 1997 and 1996 White Burgundies (Sep 1998)
- Best New Wines from Washington State (Sep 1998)
- Best New Releases from Spain (Sep 1998)
- Austria Awe-Inspiring Autumn of 1997 (Sep 1998)
- The Best From Mediterranean France (Jul 1998)
- The Best New Releases From Australia (Jul 1998)
- Five California Verticals (Jul 1998)
- Brunello di Montalcino and Other Red Wines of Tuscany... (Jul 1998)
- Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)
- 1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)
- Focus on California (May 1998)
- Oregon Pinot Noir Update (Mar 1998)
- 1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)
- The Best New Wines from Portugal (Mar 1998)
- 1996
- 1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)
- 1993
- The 1990 Clarets...To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)