Cellar Favorite: 2005 Le Dôme

BY NEAL MARTIN | FEBRUARY 2, 2026

Having consistently tasted Le Dôme—one of Saint-Émilion’s “O.G.s” (original garagistes) —since Jonathan Maltus presented his maiden 1996 at an importer tasting in London, it is always fascinating to return to those earliest vintages that caused such bruhaha at the time. Traditionalists argue that these Bordeaux arrivistes concocted wines to please critics’ palates, not least Robert Parker, who lent his full weight of support behind the movement. Skeptics doubted these wines’ longevity and regarded them as a passing fad. Alongside Jean-Luc Thunevin’s Valandraud, Le Dôme represents the two survivors of the movement. Jack Maltus, Jonathan’s son, has taken on a more prominent role since joining five years ago. He poured the 2005 Le Dôme blind on a recent visit to London. 

The 2005 contains around 75% Cabernet Franc, in some ways presciently foreshadowing the rise of this grape variety on the Right Bank. It shows minor degradation on the rim. The bouquet has undeniably evolved well over the last two decades. Red plum and blackberry scents, brown spices and light savoury scents emerge with time, certainly much more classic in style than in Le Dôme’s formative years. The palate is smooth and well balanced with fine tannins, not quite as structured as some more obdurate 2005s encountered in recent months. This shows commendable finesse and delineation on a finish that exudes Cabernet Franc. Drinking perfectly now, the 2005 will offer another 12 to 15 years’ drinking pleasure. 93/Drink 2026-2040

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