Cellar Favorite: 1966 Trotanoy

BY NEAL MARTIN | OCTOBER 13, 2025

Super-typhoon Ragasa is barrelling in across the ocean towards Hong Kong, and I cannot deny feeling anticipation. Sandbags are laid across the glass doors of luxury boutiques, commuters clock out of work early and head home, and roads normally clogged with traffic are eerily empty. The air hangs heavy with humidity as squalls become more frequent. Fortunately, I hunker down in a salubrious hotel overlooking Kowloon Bay. As it turns out, Ragasa is not a direct hit. Though you would not want to be walking outside at its peak, the storm is not as dramatic as forecasted. Thankfully, there is just minor structural damage. The only casualty, as far as I am concerned, is the cancelled Figeac dinner.  The following evening, I am a bit bored. My friend Mr. Koala lives a short distance away, and we both agree that a super-typhoon should not prevent dinner. We arrange to meet on the mezzanine floor, a bistro that rustles up traditional English grub. My bangers ‘n mash is not worthy of a Vinous Table, but the bottle that Mr. Koala brings is certainly worthy of a Cellar Favorite. As we polish it off, we have a good old chinwag and remember a friend who left us far too early this year.

The 1966 Trotanoy comes from a golden era for the Pomerol estate. The wines are now rarely seen. The last bottle I encountered, as mentioned in my most recent tasting note, was drunk with the man who oversaw its creation, Jean-Claude Berrouet, though that must now be a decade ago. This bottle clearly has sound provenance and, despite a crumbly cork, is utterly sublime. This is less “aloof” than past bottles, unfolding politely with classic aromas of black fruit, old leather and black truffle. It is not powerful like the 1961 or 1970, understated by comparison, yet you have to admire its delineation and classicism, almost statesmanlike. The palate is cut from a similar cloth. Refined, unpretentious, charming and effortless, it expresses the conservatism of the 1966 vintage, but after almost 60 years, there is still plenty of vigour in the tank. Having been decanted at the beginning of dinner, it gains complexity and fans out gently towards the finish. The 1966 Trotanoy epitomises everything great about mature Pomerol. Wonderful. 94/Drink 2025-2035.

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