2020 Clos de Vougeot Cuvée de l’Abbaye de Citeaux

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 11, 2022

This edition of Cellar Favourite concerns a brand new release. The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Cuvée de l’Abbaye de Citeaux is blended from the donations of 24 growers. It comprises of two barrels, the equivalent of around 600 bottles, matured at Château de la Tour under the supervision of François Labet. The wine will be auctioned by Sotheby’s in collaboration with the Fondation du Patrinome to benefit the restoration of the Abbaye de Citeaux. The auction is planned to run from 8 to 23 April (details at Clos de Vougeot for Abbaye de Cîteaux) and includes lots donated by other producers. The 24 producers that have contributed to this blend are: Domaine du Clos Frantin (Albert Bichot), Domaine d’Ardhuy, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils, Domaine Capitain-Gagnerot, Domaine Charlopin-Parizot, Maison Joseph Drouhin, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Domaine René Dubois, Maison Dufouleur Frères, Domaine d’Eugenie, Domaine Faiveley, Domaine François Lamarche, Domaine Henri Rebourseau, Château Philippe le Hardi, Maison Louis-Jadot, Domaine Jacques Prieur, Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Domaine Thibaud Liger-Belair, Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg, Domaine Michel Noëllat, Maison Remoissenet, Château de la Tour, Domaine de la Vougeraie and Château du Clos de Vougeot. The wine will be bottled this coming August in various formats with a label designed by calligrapher Christelle Sordel inspired by monks’ ancient manuscripts. This is not the first time this cuvée has been produced, though the last release was back in 1997.

Lucid ruby in colour, the 2020 Clos de Vougeot Cuvée de l’Abbaye de Citeaux has a very seductive, very pure bouquet with wild strawberries, hints of cassis and orange blossom. I appreciate its delineation and focus, capturing the lushness of the growing season without any over-ripeness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine concentration, the layers of red and blue fruit framed by lithe, saturated tannins. Overall, it is the texture that really makes an impression: smooth and velvety without a single hard edge. As such, I suspect it will be approachable in its youth, yet without doubt it has the substance to mature with grace. 93/Drink 2030-2055.

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