1996 Domaine Robert Denogent Pouilly-Fuissé Les Carrons Vieilles Vignes 


A few months back, I reported on a cluster of old Pouilly-Fuissés from Château de Beauregard that attested to their under-appreciated longevity. Here is another bottle that was bright as a daisy when opened in Beaune as a pre-prandial wake-me-up.

The 1996 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Carrons Vieilles Vignes from Domaine Robert Denogent, one of Fuissé’s top producers, is burnished silvery in hue with green tints. The nose is delectable, beautifully defined with Crustacea, kaffir lime and wet wool scents that seem to gather momentum in the glass. The palate has exquisite balance, linear at first, strict and uncompromising. Yet, the Carrons mellows in the glass, luxuriating in its newfound freedom from bottle, with shucked oyster shells and red apples towards its long finish. At 26 years old, this Pouilly-Fuissé has so much to give. I only regret that I can imagine nearly all the other bottles were consumed long ago. 93/Drink 2022-2040.

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