Cellar Favorite: 1997 Domaine Raymond Trollat Saint-Joseph

BY NEAL MARTIN | MAY 4, 2026

Since his passing in 2023, Raymond Trollat belongs to a handful of Rhône winemakers who have gained posthumous acclaim. During his lifetime, Trollat was revered as one of the region’s finest and humblest winemakers, rarely traveling far from his vineyard. His wines were niche and enjoyed by a relatively small number of oenophiles, perhaps because he never owned a prestigious site in Côte-Rôtie or Hermitage. Nevertheless, Robert Parker once described Trollat as “one of the legendary producers of Saint-Joseph” and “an old-fashioned vigneron” in the mould of Henri Bonneau and Jacques Reynaud of Château Rayas. Approaching retirement 20 years ago, Trollat leased and then sold his three hectares in Saint-Jean-de-Muzols to Domaine Gonon, with 2005 marking Trollat’s valedictory vintage. Since then, Trollat has become one of the most sought-after names in the Rhône, with prices that reflect both rarity and esteem.

A friend from Hong Kong recently passed through London and we met for lunch at Noble Rot on Lamb’s Conduit Street. He spotted a bottle of Trollat on the list. When the sommelier advised it was the last one, unable to disguise the prospect of sampling this legend himself, well, what else could we do?

The 1997 Saint-Joseph is a beautiful Syrah. Showing a little bricking on the rim, the bouquet blossoms in the glass with strawberry and raspberry scents, light Provençal herbs, pine needle and fireside hearth. The aromatics have a mellowness and a warmth about them that is irresistible, verging upon Pinot-like. (Indeed, I believe there were a few stray Pinot vines dotted here and there!) The palate is beautifully balanced with a silver thread of acidity embroidered from start to finish. Time has softened the tannins—Trollat’s wines were known to be a little hard and herbaceous in their youth due to the prevalence of whole bunch—so that now the wine just slips down the throat. Yet there remains real weight and presence, just the gentlest of grip on the finish. Red fruit merges with slightly earthier elements with time, a hint of roasted chestnut and tobacco. The 1997 is a masterclass in understatement and yet one of the most satisfying, heartwarming wines I have drunk this year. Magnificent. 97/Drink 2026-2044

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