Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses


Traveling up and down the Northern Rhône Valley always paints a highly diverse picture. These vineyards stretch across a distance of over 65 kilometers (40 miles) from the northernmost to the southernmost points. Depending on the individual appellation, the stylistic expressions can be worlds apart. Using Syrah as the same single-grape variety, light- to medium-bodied, delicate, floral Côte-Rôties line up against full-bodied, tannic, occasionally rustic Cornas. Bold and ambitious Marsanne Hermitage Blanc has little in common with crisp and lean Saint-Péray. Within Condrieu alone, there is a vast range of Viognier styles across different producers. Writing about the Northern Rhône is like putting together a detailed puzzle. Generalizations can be drawn, yet exceptions often lurk nearby. Based on my personal observations during an extensive two-week trip last autumn, winemakers and vines exhibit a remarkable degree of adaptability, a quality that is becoming ever more crucial in the face of climate change. And despite a softening global demand for fine wine, appellations here are either expanding or, in cases where the potential is already maximized, maintaining their current size.

Christine Vernay of Domaine Georges Vernay gets a warm hug from her daughter, Emma Amsellem.

Following a wet 2021 growing season that led to frequent quality inconsistencies, the warm and dry 2022 vintage presented its own set of challenges. As mentioned in this report, the devil is in the details. Firstly, 2021 is characterized by its high variability, both in reds and whites. While there are a few surprising 2021 reds across all the appellations, the most promising offerings hail from Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage and Cornas. In select appellations, such as Hermitage or Condrieu, some 2021 whites shine spectacularly. By contrast, 2022 paints an entirely different picture. The reds often range from very good to outstanding, if falling slightly short of the recent benchmark set by 2020. As for the 2022 whites, they generally exhibit more ripeness, body and alcohol than their 2021 counterparts, yet they generally manage to achieve balance without veering into excess. While 2022 largely favors reds, there are exceptional whites worth seeking out, particularly those from Hermitage.

Although this broad report covers 652 wines from 72 different producers, my future aim is to expand coverage by including smaller and emerging wineries. While my primary focus here was to uncover insights into the 2022 and 2021 vintages, I seized every opportunity to address occasional gaps in the Vinous database from prior years, such as 2020. After delving deeply into the overarching conditions of the 2022 vintage, this report zooms in on the most renowned Northern Rhône appellations: Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage and Cornas. To complete the puzzle, Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Condrieu, Saint-Péray and Château-Grillet are also examined, while a market update brings in some commercial perspective. Lastly, readers seeking detailed information on the 2021 growing season are encouraged to refer to Josh Raynolds’ earlier report, Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône.

The 2022 Growing Season…

The year commenced with a relatively cool January, followed by a gradual rise in temperatures. In Tain-L’Hermitage, average March and April temperatures were 9.7°C and 12.8°C (49.5°F and 55°F), respectively, with the May average almost hitting the 20°C (68°F) mark. Consequently, flowering began fairly early – around the 20th of May. Despite rising temperatures, rainfall remained scarce, other than much-needed exceptions in April and June. Some growers conducted green harvesting to align potential yields with the limited vegetative growth.

Early July marked the start of veraison, with temperatures occasionally reaching the 40°C (104°F) mark. Indications of hydric stress began to appear, leading some vines, particularly younger ones with less established root systems, to shut down. Nonetheless, occasional heat spikes, even with complete shutdowns, can have their advantages, as pointed out by Caroline Frey, proprietor and winemaker at Paul Jaboulet Aîné and Domaine de la Chapelle: “In my experience, it's sometimes advantageous for the vines when temperatures rise above 40°C (104°F) rather than having extended periods at, let’s say, 35°C (95°F), because then, the vines don’t shut down, and there’s excessive evapotranspiration.”

Mid-August finally brought relief with ample precipitation, proving a blessing for the hydric-stressed vines. “We experienced a combined rainfall of 100 millimeters in August, and this truly saved the harvest,” Pierre Rostaing explained. “There was still time for ripening to restart and proceed. If the rain had come later, the end of the growing season would have been too near, and there wouldn’t have been enough time to achieve sufficient fruit ripeness.” Clément Bärtschi, head winemaker at Chapoutier, returned from his summer vacation surprised that the potential alcohol levels in the grapes hadn't soared. “This allowed us to be patient and wait for more advanced phenolic ripeness. Compared to 2003, when alcohol and sugar levels skyrocketed, forcing us to harvest without achieving full phenolic ripeness, the slightly lower alcohol levels of 2022 supported balance. However, the hydric stress the vines experienced during summer meant that the tannins never reached perfect maturity,” Bärtschi admitted.

The harvest of white grapes began in the second half of August, with additional, much-needed rainfall arriving towards the month's end. This provided many producers with additional time to ripen the remaining grapes gradually. Loïc Jamet noted the relatively small berry size when harvesting his red grapes at the end of August. “Normally, we fill one vat a day, but it took two days to fill the first vat simply because the grapes were so tiny. What saved 2022 was that the vines were able to progress thanks to a few selected summer rain showers. Interestingly, we almost finished our 2022 harvest at the same time we started it in 2021,” Jamet added. Overall, the 2022 harvest occurred under favorable conditions and was largely finished by the end of September. Despite concerns about potential alcohol level increases due to abundant sunshine and elevated summer temperatures, most wines I tasted for this report – both red and white – ended up between 12.5% and 13.5% alcohol.

Exploring the ancient cellars of Domaine Auguste Clape amidst the heart of Cornas.


Côte-Rôtie, the northernmost French Rhône appellation, is currently planted with 333 hectares, which represents a 21% increase from 2012. The vineyards, positioned on steep, often terraced slopes, primarily face east and southeast, optimizing sunlight exposure while remaining shielded from the northward mistral winds. While the AOC mandates a minimum planting density of 6,000 vines per hectare, typical densities reach up to 10,000 or more, fostering competition between vines, naturally reducing yields and intensifying concentration. Yields in both 2021 and 2022 fell below the AOC’s 40 hectoliter per hectare limit, with 37 hL/ha in 2022 and 29 hL/ha in 2021. That being said, the AOC slightly reduced the allowed limit for 2021 as a countermeasure for excessive dilution.

Seldom does Syrah produce wines of such elegance and detail as it does in Côte-Rôtie, evoking characteristics often associated with Pinot Noir. Usually medium-bodied at most and often red-fruited and hauntingly floral, these wines can dazzle with refinement and finesse. One notable stylistic exception is Guigal, where new oak heavily influences the wines, resulting in a more powerful and concentrated style of Côte-Rôtie. Guigal notwithstanding, the use of new oak is declining across the region. The utilization of partial or full whole clusters during fermentation remains debated, varying widely among producers and vintages (readers can find further details on this in the tasting notes and the producer commentaries). Aging typically occurs in barrique or larger demi-muid, primarily due to Syrah’s reductive nature that demands aeration.

Two thousand twenty-one, a frost-plagued and rainy vintage, underscores the importance of producer selection. Jamet crafted the finest 2021 red wine of the entire Northern Rhône – their iconic Côte Brune. Among all the other wines I tasted during my trip, examples from Chapoutier, Guigal, Ogier and Rostaing also performed well. At best, 2021 offers delicate and fragrant reds that won’t require much time to come around. However, they generally lack the required concentration and structure to age as long as the surrounding 2020 or 2022 vintages. Purchasing wines from other producers may yield positive surprises, but readers should manage their expectations.

Two thousand twenty-two is a different story altogether. Despite the warm and dry growing season, many wines burst with freshness and intensity. While readers will find gorgeous reds from all the above-mentioned producers that excelled in 2021, others such as Christophe Pichon, Delas Frères, Domaine Pichat, Ferraton Père & Fils, J. Denuzière, Lionel Faury, Vidal-Fleury and Yves Cuilleron also produced wines of promising quality. The million-dollar question is whether 2022 will be comparable to the all-star 2020. In my view, most likely not – 2020 seems more complete, round and harmonious. Still, I look forward to tasting the finished 2022s from bottle and seeing if they come up with a surprise. In any case, 2022 is a fine vintage in Côte-Rôtie, and there are plenty of awesome wines to look forward to.

Inspecting the vines at Château-Grillet with head winemaker Jaeok Chu Cramette.


Along with Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage is the only Northern Rhône appellation located on the eastern side of the Rhône River. The iconic hill encompassing the 136-hectare Hermitage AOC boasts a south-facing slope, fully exposed to the sun's warmth yet sheltered against the mistral winds. From west to east, Hermitage’s most famous lieux-dits include Les Bessards, L'Hermite, La Chapelle, Le Méal, Les Greffieux, Les Beaumes, Péléat and Les Rocoules. The predominant granitic soils offer essential support for vines on the steep terraces, while the remaining terrain comprises a blend of glacial stone, sand, alluvial deposits and clay. Although Syrah dominates, Marsanne and small Roussanne plantings thrive in the eastern section of the appellation, where the vineyards feature flatter terrain with higher chalk and clay content. Erosion poses an ongoing challenge, necessitating the terracing of certain areas.

Due to increasingly frequent warm and dry growing seasons, some producers openly discuss the possibility of allowing some form of irrigation. Clément Bärtschi, head winemaker at Chapoutier, highlights the uncertainty of the future: “We contemplate the idea that in a few years, we may even face different challenges than today. If we don’t allow some new practices in the present time, we might not have the option to do so in the future. To be clear, we don't necessarily advocate for irrigation, but we believe there are various practices, such as soil management, that have been implemented in the past and continue to be used.” He continues, “In the summer of 2022, when all the leaves on parts of the Béssards or Méal lieux-dits fell from the vines, we simply had to acknowledge that we've tried everything and may run out of options. The problem is that hot and dry vintages are likely to occur more frequently, and at the moment, there is no perfect solution. Irrigation is not a perfect solution either, but dismissing it may be overly naive considering the future that may lie ahead of us.”

Jean-Louis Chave is less enthusiastic about the prospect of irrigation installations in these historic vineyards: “Of course, we need to ensure that the vines don't die from dryness. But the solution is not irrigation; it's soil work, compost work, work on yields, canopy management – it's all of that. Irrigation is nothing but an easy way out. It’s similar to managing Brettanomyces. The simple solution is sterile filtration, another easy way out. But shouldn’t we try to find less drastic methods to deal with those challenges? I’m talking about craftsmanship.” Philippe Guigal also doesn’t see the necessity for irrigation on Hermitage Hill: “In my view, it’s not necessary. Look at the Southern Rhône, where we are represented with 75 hectares of vineyards in Châteauneuf-du-Pape at Château de Nalys. The vines seem to adjust themselves more and more to the increasingly dry and warm climate. Some might call it adaptation. I actually believe that vines are much more resilient than us humans. And don’t forget that installing and maintaining irrigation on steep slopes is far from practical. Let’s keep faith in our vines.”

Jean-Louis Chave overlooking the Rhône Valley from the top of his Saint-Joseph vineyards.

Like most other Northern Rhône appellations in 2021, Hermitage yielded higher quality white wines than reds. The crown for the white of the vintage is shared by four wines: Chave’s L'Hermitage Blanc, Chapoutier’s Ermitage Blanc L'Ermite and Le Méal and M. Sorrel’s Hermitage Blanc Les Rocoules. Those stunners aside, there are many more brilliant 2021 Hermitage Blancs waiting to be discovered. The wines are fresh, full of energy and generally less flashy than in 2020 or 2022. Focusing on the 2021 reds confirms that Hermitage is the most consistent red wine appellation throughout the Northern Rhône in this challenging year. Here, top marks are shared by two wines: Chave’s L’Hermitage and Chapoutier’s Ermitage Le Pavillon. Readers can also look forward to promising wines from Cave de Tain, Delas Frères, Domaine des Remizières, Domaine du Colombier, Emmanuel Darnaud and Domaine de la Chapelle. While these wines may not possess the same level of structure, ripeness and longevity as their 2020 or 2022 counterparts, they exude superb elegance and freshness.

In 2022, Hermitage yielded an average of 31 hL/ha, showing great promise for both whites and reds. That said, the general level of alcohol and fruit ripeness is less than in 2018 or 2019. In addition to sufficient structure, many producers deftly preserved a remarkable level of freshness and energy in their reds. At this early stage, the radiant 2022 might end up becoming a younger sibling of the terrific 2020 vintage. While the race for the white Hermitage of the vintage is still open, Chapoutier’s Ermitage Blanc Le Méal seems to have a narrow lead over Chave’s L'Hermitage Blanc. For the reds, it’s the other way around, with Chave’s L'Hermitage currently reaching for the title. For both whites and reds, apart from those two top producers, I am most impressed by the offerings from Cave de Tain, Delas Frères, Domaine des Remizières, Ferraton Père & Fils, Guigal, Emmanuel Darnaud, Gabriel Meffre, Domaine de la Chapelle and Yann Chave.


The tiny, red-only appellation of Cornas encompasses 159 hectares, up 24% from 2012. The vineyards are nestled in a south- and east-facing amphitheater, with some sites having fairly steep slopes. Among the most precious lieux-dits are La Geynale, Reynard, Les Mazards and Chaillot. The combination of a warm Mediterranean climate, effective protection from the mistral winds and significant aspects translates into earlier ripening than the other appellations. While Cornas tended to be overly tannic and rustic in the past, many producers have since shifted to a more polished and modern style. However, some classic Cornas archetypes, such as the wines of Domaine Auguste Clape, still exist.

Officially starting with 2022, the Côte-Rôtie La Reynarde is the fourth "La" within the iconic Guigal line-up.

Many of the 2021 Cornas I sampled lack substance and complexity. Coming in at an average yield of 36 hL/ha, ten percent below the appellation limit, the wines are made in a more accessible style compared to the surrounding vintages. However, a few reds I tasted are still respectable, generally faring better than those from Crozes-Hermitage or Saint-Joseph. Still, choosing the right producer remains key in a challenging vintage like 2021. Readers who wish to explore 2021 Cornas should consider the wines of Delas Frères, Auguste Clape, Alain Voge, Domaine du Tunnel/Stéphane Robert, Vincent Paris, Alain & Emmanuelle Verset and Famille Tardieu.

Two thousand twenty-two, on the other hand, shows great promise. The wines exhibit gorgeously expressive fruit and are often well-balanced despite their robust tannic structures. A few have the potential to be truly exceptional. The large group of producers whose samples impress includes Cave de Tain, Christophe Pichon, Delas Frères, Auguste Clape, Alain Voge, Domaine du Tunnel/Stéphane Robert, Vincent Paris, Dumien-Serrette, Ferraton Père & Fils, Chapoutier, Thomas Farge and Yves Cuilleron. Average yields in 2022 were 32 hL/ha, well below the 40 hL/ha appellation limit.


As of today, Saint-Joseph boasts 1,352 hectares of vineyards, a 13% increase since 2012. The second-largest and longest among all Northern Rhône appellations, it spans nearly 50 kilometers (31 miles) from the northern tip of Cornas all the way up to Condrieu. This represents almost 0.3 degrees in latitude, fostering climatic variety within the region. Saint-Joseph features vineyards on both steep slopes with poor soils and flatter, more fertile terrain. While the former doesn’t automatically translate into superior wines, it adds to the appellation's diversity. Given these geographical differences, outlining a classic Saint-Joseph style is far from obvious, but the finest wines seem to have two common attributes: varietal transparency and elegance.

The 2021 vintage shines for white Saint-Joseph, notably from Chapoutier and Gonon. It’s worth pointing out that many wines from other producers were already sold out at the time of my visit, which is why I was not able to taste them. With few exceptions, the sampled whites offer freshness and energy, though they are generally less ripe than their 2022 counterparts. Conversely, the 2021 Saint-Joseph reds show considerable variation. Some are leafy, diluted and lacking in concentration, yet top producers still crafted pleasing wines in this challenging year. Readers should consider offerings from Bernard Gripa, Chapoutier, J.L. Chave, Gangloff, Gonon, Guigal, Pierres Sèches and Thomas Farge.

Two thousand twenty-two is a very good vintage for both white and red Saint-Joseph. The whites veer toward a riper, more generous profile than in 2021, generally maintaining balance. It's regrettable that white wines constitute only about ten percent of the entire Saint-Joseph production – an increase would be more than welcome. The 2022 reds exhibit greater consistency and overall quality than the 2021s, with ripe, mostly red-fruited, expressive character and ample freshness. Look out for the wines of Aléofane, André Perret, Bernard Gripa, Coursodon, du Tunnel/Stéphane Robert, J.L. Chave, Maison Bruyère & David, Michelas St. Jemms, Gonon, Vincent Paris, Guigal, Emmanuel Darnaud, Graeme & Julie Bott, Guy Farge, Lionel Faury, Chapoutier, Thomas Farge and Yves Cuilleron.

Proprietor and head winemaker Stéphane Robert of Domaine du Tunnel, accompanied by his son Luca.


Crozes-Hermitage, the largest of all Northern Rhône appellations, keeps growing. The 1,964 hectares of planted vineyards represent a whopping 28% increase over 2012. Like in Saint-Joseph, there isn’t one distinctive Crozes-Hermitage climate. In the AOC's northern sector, a continental climate prevails. Winters can be exceedingly cold, accentuated by harsh Mistral winds. This part of the appellation boasts a lengthy growing season and notable diurnal temperature variations, yielding wines with moderate sugar levels and well-preserved acidity. Conversely, the southern sector experiences a milder climate, albeit with potential for substantial rainfall during autumn and winter. The topography varies notably between steeper slopes north of Tain-L’Hermitage and flatter vineyards to the south.

Especially in those flatter vineyards, where heavy precipitation cannot be easily absorbed by the soils, 2021 brought disastrous conditions. Most of the reds are diluted, leafy and lacking in substance. Readers should be careful when making purchases, even when wines are offered at a discount. Although many white Crozes-Hermitages are equally underwhelming, there are some positive surprises from Chapoutier, M. Sorrel and Paul Jaboulet Aîné. The overall crop came in at 43 hL/ha, slightly below the 45 hL/ha limit imposed by the AOC.

Two thousand twenty-two offers a wide range of fruit-driven, juicy red Crozes-Hermitages with appealing ripeness and good overall substance. Alcohol levels remain moderate, hovering between 12.5% and 13.5%. At this early stage, the most promising red offerings are those crafted by Château Le Devay, Domaine Vendome, Cave de Tain, Delas Frères, Domaine des Combat, Domaine des Remizières, Domaine du Colombier, Domaine Michelas St. Jemms, Emmanuel Darnaud, Laurent Fayolle, Yann Chave and J. Boutin. The 2022 Crozes-Hermitage whites show more substance and ripeness than 2021 but with slightly less overall freshness. Here, the most enticing renditions come from Domaine des Remizières, Emmanuel Darnaud, Chapoutier, Paul Jaboulet Aîné and Yann Chave. The overall crop in 2022 came in at 37 hL/ha, 15% below that of 2021. However, considerable variation remains given the large size of the appellation, so selection is key.

Rise and shine - Hermitage Hill at sunrise in early November.


Bordering Côte-Rôtie to the south, the Viognier-only Condrieu appellation is considered a worldwide benchmark for this aromatic variety. Across a narrow patch of roughly 20 kilometers (12 miles), 215 hectares of vineyards are planted, up 29% from 2012. Even though the highly expressive, viscously textured and mostly dry Condrieu wines seem to have fallen out of fashion, the increase in vineyard land suggests otherwise. Most of the rocky, often steep-sloped vineyards face south, helping the grapes to ripen. Similar to Côte-Rôtie, the AOC mandates a minimum planting density of 6,500 vines per hectare, while some densities reach up to 10,000 or more, encouraging rivalry among the vines and naturally leading to lower yields and more concentration. Yields in both 2021 and 2022 fell below the AOC's 41 hL/ha limit, with 37 hL/ha in 2022 and 23 hL/ha in 2021.

For Viognier, choosing the right time to bring in the grapes is of utmost importance. Accurate judgment is crucial to ensuring that the bunches attain full ripeness so that they can exhibit their characteristic aromas. Harvesting late can lend overripe and pungent tropical fruit aromas. It may also lead to excessive flavor and acidity loss while sugar content rapidly increases. Interestingly, many of the employed winemaking choices in Condrieu are normally associated with more neutral varieties, such as Chardonnay. Some producers destem their grapes, while others harvest whole clusters for gentle, direct pressing. Fermentation can occur either in large wooden and stainless steel vessels or smaller barriques. A proportion of new oak can also be expected, adding texture as well as vanilla and toasty flavors. Some producers even stir lees during maturation, increasing the release of yeast compounds. Malolactic conversion can be either encouraged or blocked, with the former resulting in a softer mouthfeel and the addition of buttery aromas. Extended skin-contact sometimes results in wines with noticeable phenolic grip.

With only a handful of exceptions, 2021 is an outstanding vintage in Condrieu. Most of the wines are highly varietally transparent and remarkably refreshing. Low yields are mainly attributable to April frost damage; some of the vineyards lost up to 80% of their entire crop. The wine of the vintage was made by Domaine Vernay – their brilliant Condrieu Coteau de Vernon, a terrific Viognier of incredible verticality. Other excellent wines were crafted by Delas Frères, André Perret, Guigal and Chapoutier. Many of these wines share an emphasis on floral elements, as well as citrus and ripe stone fruit. They can all be enjoyed right out of the gate and are typically best consumed in their youth, but the finest examples will easily outlive their 10th birthdays.

Although slightly less crisp compared to 2021, the solar follow-up 2022 vintage still yielded complex, ripe and expressive results. The wines of Roland Grangier, Christophe Pichon, André Perret, Jamet, Rostaing, Guigal, Lionel Faury, Chapoutier, Martin Clerc, Chirat and Yves Cuilleron impress me most, but I haven’t yet tasted the 2022s from Vernay.

Stéphane Ogier behind his stellar line-up of 2020 Côte-Rôties.


Bordering Cornas, Saint-Péray is a white variety-only appellation and probably the least-known AOC in the entire Northern Rhône Valley. One of the reasons for its lack of recognition is its small size, with only 111 hectares planted as of 2022 (up 46% from 2012). Thriving on granitic and limestone soils, Saint-Péray vines benefit from excellent drainage, as well as water-holding capacity. Marsanne remains the dominant variety here, with Roussanne adding a little diversity. Given the increasing shift in consumer preferences toward fresh and crisp whites, Saint-Péray is well positioned, and the wines are gradually gaining in popularity.

Both 2021 and 2022 Saint-Péray come highly recommended. While the wines of 2021 often express refreshing personalities, 2022s have a little more fruit ripeness and generally offer added scope and more body. While the singular wines of Domaine du Tunnel/Stéphane Robert remain at the very top of the appellation’s quality hierarchy, other producers like Bernard Gripa and Alain Voge are in hot pursuit. What all the wines have in common is that they are best consumed within a few years of release. Average yields in 2021 and 2022 were similar, at 33 hL/ha and 32 hL/ha, respectively, well below the appellation’s 45 hL/ha limit.


Nestled in its very own 3.5-hectare AOC, the tiny Château-Grillet estate grows vines on 102 meticulously marked terraces with sandy-textured, biotite granite soils. Since its acquisition by the Artémis Group in 2011, some of the most talented people in the industry have worked diligently to bring the once-neglected estate back on track. A little more than a decade later, the wines of Château-Grillet have returned to the ranks of France’s most precious whites. Partly responsible for this transition is Korean winemaker Jaeok Chu Cramette. Readers interested in the latest developments at Château-Grillet and how the wines are made are invited to reference the comprehensive producer commentary.

The singular wines of Domaine Jamet continue to dazzle.

Looking at the Markets

The challenging global fine wine market conditions do not spare the Northern Rhône. For the majority of appellations, the US represents either the largest or second-largest export market by volume, which is why it’s important to watch the latest developments there. A major US importer highlighted a decline in demand for high-end Northern Rhône wines priced above $25 per bottle. This trend can be partly attributed to the low-yielding 2021 vintage and its quality inconsistencies. With an ample supply of 2019 and 2020 wines still circulating in the market, consumers are less inclined to pull the trigger on 2021s. Also, the fact that some producers opted to raise prices in 2021 due to the limited crop doesn’t bode well for consumer sentiment.

Conversely, insights from another significant US retailer reveal a contrasting trend, with certain Northern Rhône wines showing signs of traction. Unlike their Southern Rhône counterparts, which have historically enjoyed greater popularity, some Northern Rhône wines now garner attention. This unexpected shift is particularly evident in the more affordable segments of Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph. Several retailers report that pricing is becoming increasingly important to most American wine buyers.

I tasted the vast majority of the wines for this report during my visit across all Northern Rhône appellations in October and November 2023.

© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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