2015 Domaine Y. Clerget Meursault Les Chevalières 

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MAY 30, 2023

Sometime in the fall of 2016, I started hearing the buzz about Thibaud Clerget taking over his family’s domaine, thanks in large part to Damien Ravion, who worked at the time at Bistro de l’Hotel before leaving to start L’Expression, his restaurant in Beaune. A few days later, there I was, in the cellar with Clerget tasting the 2015s from barrel. The quality of the wines was immediately apparent, as was Clerget’s potential.

Shortly thereafter, I tasted the 2015 Meursault Les Chevalières from bottle and immediately purchased a case of six. Cellaring white Burgundy these days involves a bit more apprehension than it should, but when the wines are on, they can be sublime. For my palate, there are few greater wine experiences than aged white Burgundy. There is also something very rewarding about Burgundy’s less-famous wines, those that the average person can still afford.

So, it was with great joy and anticipation that I opened one of my last bottles of the 2015. Now nearly eight years old, the 2015 has softened a bit. White flowers, apricot, tangerine peel, mint and white pepper lend brightness. Time in the glass brings out lovely textural suaveness to round things out. As I have gotten older, I have increasingly grown to enjoy whites with a good bit of air. I decanted the 2015, drank most of it, but saved a bit for the next day, and it was even better. Clerget’s 2015 Meursault Les Chevalières is not a truly epic white Burgundy, but it is a wine of immense pleasure that signals the beginning of what has been a brilliant career thus far. Chapeau! 92/Drink 2023-2028.

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