Cellar Favorite: 1982 Ormes de Pez

BY NEAL MARTIN | OCTOBER 5, 2026

Over my career I have tasted practically every major 1982 claret, though now and again I chance upon one that has “evaded capture.” One such wine was the 1982 Ormes de Pez, which current proprietor Jean-Charles Cazes served blind from magnum when I visited during the 2026 harvest. This Saint-Estèphe estate has been owned by the Cazes family since 1936, though notably the finest vintages are those that have come over the last decade, including a sublime 2016 that impressed at this year’s Southwold tasting. What I admire about the 1982 Ormes de Pez is its simplicity. It does not go out to challenge. It is not a thought-provoking wine. In this era, the wines were notoriously tannic in their youth, but after four decades it resides between primary and secondary notes. Provenance and format have likely aided in slowing the wine’s evolution vis-à-vis a standard bottle. The aromatics offer dark berry fruit, tea leaves and freshly rolled tobacco, with an underlying tertiary character that becomes more prominent with aeration. The palate is refreshingly youthful and clearly well balanced. There is a purity of fruit that instantly lights up the senses, perhaps just a little tart, asserting gentle grip towards the graphite-tinged finish. It just goes about its business with minimum fuss. Not to mention, you could probably find a bottle for a fraction of the price of other 1982s. A reminder that nothing ages quite like a great Bordeaux. 92/Drink 2026-2040.

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